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fire_fly88

I can only get to 3,000 RPM

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For the past couple of mornings my car can only get up to 3,000 RPM even with the peddel to the floor. It only seems to hapen first thing in the morning when the temperature is neering frezzing. After about 10 minutes and after I turn off and turn back on the car then its back to normal. Any idea what might be the problem, and why would does it appear to be temperature dependant? Thanks. Calvin

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I didn't respond immediately, because I assumed someone more knowledgeable would come along. You are in what is known here as 'limp mode'. Do a search for 'limp mode' and you should be able to find more information. It's often to do with the EGR valve getting clogged up.

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Your problem is usually caused by turbo overboosting. Waste gate arm or rod may be sticking due to cold temperature. The rod may loosen once engine has heated up to operating temperature. Try lubing the rod where it goes into the wastegate regulator. Move the arm when you lube so you can verify if it is moving more freely as lube is added. There is good access once you have removed rear body panel.

Edited by tolsen

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tolsen:Thanks for your reply. This has happened to me on a number of occasions in the same location early on the way to work on cold days.I haven't always checked for an error code, but if my memory serves me correctly, it had something to do with an overvoltage in one of the sensors.Good tip!

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tolsen:Thanks for your reply. This has happened to me on a number of occasions in the same location early on the way to work on cold days.I haven't always checked for an error code, but if my memory serves me correctly, it had something to do with an overvoltage in one of the sensors.Good tip!

Does it happen at higher revs, i.e. when you shift down to negotiate a long hill and want to maintain speed. This happened to me when driving the 1000 km boring journey from Banchory to Dover to take the ferry to Dunkerque. Smart went into limp mode just before Dundee only 9 hours before my ferry would depart.A quick read of ECU told me the turbo boost pressure was too high. Deleted the DTC and made it on time to Dover only to be nearly arrested by the police because I carried an offensive weapon - my fish gutting knife. Blade was too long for the English.

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Dover only to be nearly arrested by the police because I carried an offensive weapon - my fish gutting knife. Blade was too long for the English.

Maybe they're used to wee tiny fishies.

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Good thing you didn't have any bagpipes in the car ;)

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Does it happen at higher revs, i.e. when you shift down to negotiate a long hill and want to maintain speed. This happened to me when driving the 1000 km boring journey from Banchory to Dover to take the ferry to Dunkerque. Smart went into limp mode just before Dundee only 9 hours before my ferry would depart.A quick read of ECU told me the turbo boost pressure was too high. Deleted the DTC and made it on time to Dover only to be nearly arrested by the police because I carried an offensive weapon - my fish gutting knife. Blade was too long for the English.

It has happened 3 or 4 times usually on cold days during the 3 years that I have owned the car.I first notice it after about 5 minutes of driving when trying to climb a hill on the highway.Error code P0238 (Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit High) is the code that I once recovered. Edited by smartdriver

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I think you need to adjust the waste gate a wee bit (assumes you have already confirmed that waste gate moves, lubed rod where it enters actuator and checked condition of rubber hose to wastegate actuator).

Posted Image

My new KKK KP31 turbo acquired for GBP 124.16 - onehundredtwentyfourpoundsandsixteenpence!

Try moving the nuts 1/2 - 1 turn to the right on the rod. Mark angular position of nuts with a felt tipped pen before adjusting. Moving nuts to the right reduces preload on wategate valve so it will open at a slightly lower boost pressure. Be careful not to transfer any torque to the rod as diaphragm may then suffer damage.

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I've done this a number of times and it solves the overboost problem.

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Hmmm...?  I have many times moved the rod from one limit to the opposite end of it's travel and even pushed against it to make sure it travels all the way.  Not too hard but pressure to see if it would go further...?
The next question is, IF it is damaged can you replace just the wastegate actuator and where do you locate the rod at...?  I see some careful measuring in tomorrow's examination.

 

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Moving my issue over to this topic/string.  Willys has offered some good intel, but still have my limp mode issue, which i know is an old topic.  Been doing more reading, and see more causes that i need to consider.  I’m not overboosting, for certain.  I’ve lubed the actuator a couple of times, first time just squirting some lube in there (no luck), and 2nd time taking the linkage apart and moving the butterfly valve open/closed many dozen times, and a bunch more graphic lube.  Slightly readjusted the linkage too, but i think thats a non issue as I’m certainly not over boosting.  

 

Ends up in limp mode on most drives (typical is to/from work, about 8 miles ea way, with a number of stop&goes).  Sometimes it won’t go into limp mode for a whole day with several drives (start/drive/shutdown).  But most often it will start off fine, will rev up, boost/mp never goes over about 190 (foot control), but then will just slip into boost mode within the first mile anyway, while keeping rpm and MP low.   Tried driving it real easy when cold, or getting on it harder, just different combos to see what the cause is, but no obvious trend that i can identify.

 

Some of the old threads on this note that the EGR plug can get moist or just be problematic, which can cause the issue apparently.  I may try that… pull the plug, apply contact cleaner/dryer, and just check condition then re-plug.  I did the EGR delete, and use the eastern euro chip whizmo for tricking the computer into not throwing a code, so might that unit, or the connection to that, be a cause?  And with the EGR delete, would the plug I’d check be the lower plug below the turbo?  (Just peeped up there last night to see a plug coming down from the wire bundle area, hard to reach, but looks like a candidate for checking)

 

What other causes come to mind?  

 

Still wondering if the butterfly linkage is maybe just a little too sticky still, so perhaps the computer senses its not moving quick enough during normal acceleration and so goes into limp?

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Do you still have your old EGR?  Have you soaked it in gasoline or some other liquid and cleaned it? Made sure it was moving perfectly?  Hear me out. I did this to my old EGR as a back up when i was having issues....I tried zip tying it to hoses or something and then plugging it back in just hanging there but it must be grounded so run a wire off it to an engine bolt somewhere. Maybe your emulator isn't working correctly?  When i tried to make my own emulator this is what i did to solve my issue at the time. I found out that the EGR worked as it should and the computer didn't know if it was actually in the system or not and never threw a code or go into limp mode after switching out my home made emulator. I instantly ordered one of IZZY's emulators and never an issue again.   I do have the EGR  removed entirely from my system, everything all the way back to the therostat as in no hoses coming back to the rear of the engine bay. 

Have you checked your turbo for sloppiness as in gently grabbing the turbo turbine and seeing if it can be wiggled up and down as in too much side to side play?  

Have you taken out your throttle peddle and peeked at it's condition???  Mine was crusted over and a bugger to get out, on my beater, the good car it was semi easy. But the beater's connections were also all white etc.   What are your floor boards like, free of rust or surface rusting..?  IF surface rust how far does it go? Take out driver's seat and look under carpet at the black box that has something to do with either air bags or crash signalling...?????  Just split balling....out of the 3 cars I have seen that far under the carpet only one had corroded connections.  

 

You have taken the silver box apart that transport canada installed above the battery area haven't you to check inside it...?  Also and I must stress be careful when doing this next one, unplug battery for sure.....unplug ECU, the one attached to air box and look at the pins in the connection plugs...DO NOT short them in any way shape or form....ask me how I learned this...!!!!   It'll cost you an ECU and a trip to someone who owns a STAR with car on trailer to get the three computers to speak to each other again after buying another ECU. BEWARE....but I had 2 pins green there also.  I tried to clean them using sensor clean and a tooth brush and in the foam and suds I watched a lightening flash as I carefully worked the tooth brush trying to clean those pins. It was cooked, as there are capacitors inside that computer unlike the SAM or Speedo.  IF I were to go after those pins again i would use a tooth pic or something and no liquid and somehow rub the green off...?  Sensor cleaner is supposed to be made to just that sort of thing and it fried my ECU.  Just warning you is all.

 

Have you replaced your main grounding strap from engine to body?  Checked all grounding pins you can find? I'm getting low on suggestions that you can test or do without a STAR....?  Doesn't it through a code or anything or just goes into limp mode?

 

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Interesting.  So chase down bad connections.. ok.  Would the emulator or EGR plug be the connectors I’d want to try first?

 

no codes are thrown on my car when in limp mode… no CEL, and no codes even if i just check anyway.

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