tolsen

Smart 450 Cooling System

694 posts in this topic

Sorry for my English. I am speaking of another language.
At this time, the coolant is 100% water.
I do not know how the radiator looks inside, but it's okay on the outside.
I want to install another heater that is clean inside and outside open for air circulation.
I have a GATES TH39590G1 thermostat which is a model that can be opened and replaces only the wax element. To determine the defect that leads to overheating, I want to remove this element - so remove a variable.
The water pump is the pump that drives the coolant.
The flow of the coolant can not measure it and then with what to divide it - data about where it finds (figures, table).
Of course there is movement in the expansion vessel. However, there is also a movement due to the heating matrix.
It is probably necessary to measure the temperature drop on the cooling radiator. What is its value?
For additional cooling I will mount an thermostatic oil radiator.

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A very interesting thread! Aside from  improvements to the cooling system, has anyone done anything to thermally insulate the cabin?

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Soon we'll be asking the complete opposite.....we NEED HEAT...!....lol

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Yes.
1) Textile lining of interior body parts (tridon) -0W consumption
2) Panoramic Thermal Insulation Panel - 0W
3) Separation of the trunk - by means of a velcro fastened (soft) convertible foil
or PETG 1mm (hard panel) -0W
4) Curtain at anti-freeze cooler -60W
5) Adding a PTC heater - 300W  . The 450CDI version also has a 600W PTC heater (OE).
6) Electric Pillow - 30W

Modifications for heating through the cooling system:
- Tolsen restrictor - 0W
- Upgrade thermostat -0W
- Diesel fuel filter heater -60W
- In-line diesel heater -144W
It follows:
- Oil pan heating - 200W
- Webasto thermotop Z / C-D -5kW
- isolation of antifreeze pipes - 0W
- Curtain on intercooler radiator -0W.
 These measures taken separately have little efficiency but together ...

The thermal engine is the power source in Smart and if it is provided with a proper heat management then all are good.

Most effective measures for heating:
- Tolsen restrictor
- Thermo panel
- Electric pillow.

Webasto promises parking heating. The Z / C-D model also allows heating after the thermal engine has started.
Usually the Z series from Webasto is dedicated to brands and mine is from Mercedes A-klasse - I hope to use it without the A-klasse computer.

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Now I have only pictures with the curtain for water cooling ,in-line heater ,thermostat whit restrictor ,filter  ,Webasto ,upgrade element.

300W PTC auto car vehicle heating heater hot fan DC12V defroster demister safety and  universal car heated seat cushion cover 12V heating heater warmer pad winter I bought them from eBay

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Yes.
Unfortunately, I'm having trouble with the cooling system.
The original wax element has a valve designed for easy bleeding - without the valve in winter, it is difficult to change the antifreeze, causing the air lock to be removed.
On the other hand, the heat engine heats up faster only in the absence of that valve.
The thermostat may be the cause, the Gates thermostat is 'poor' at SmartCDI.
 
A thermostat from another company broke (the casing) at Felec's first climb - 7 km slopes, the 300m difference.
This road was built by Roman Empire to connect Turda (Potaissa) and Cluj-Napoca (Napoca in Latin and Napuca in Dacica); was upgraded and adapted to rally races in the 1930s of the royal house.
For any vehicle this road is tough, curved in the slope and the traffic speed is 90 km / h. Smart CDI go to 60km / h, temperature 4 to 5 dots, ~ 0.5 liters of diesel fuel / 14km (~ 10mpg). This road is excellent EGR cleaner.

However, so far this summer has been cool. In the past few years, in the low neighborhoods (Someseni), the temperature was up to 42C. This year, still there, 32C !?

Edited by tyc

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As built, the Gates thermostat is the worst ever. Its stamped metal plate disc does not seal against the warped seat. 

 

The housing will split apart after a while causing sudden loss of most coolant. 

 

There are other pattern thermostats out there where the check valve in the sealing element is fitted up side down. 

 

There is no point explaining these issues to them as they are generally individuals with extraordinarily low IQ. 

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For objective reasons, Gates will be replaced with a metallic one possible in 2 steps: 87C @ 18mm diameter and 95C @ 45mm diameter.
87C to prevent thermal shocks; 87C will probably only open in winter, but it does not matter as long as thermal management is fine.
At the electromechanical thermostat we quit because it involves many moving elements as well as a part of electronic control.

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Due to cooling problems, we removed the wax element.
Now the cooling is good (even too good) but a new thermostat system is coming.
It will have two wax elements: one at 90C (original) and the second 95C (06H121113B).
.................................................. ...................
I inspected the proper functioning of the current thermostat.
We found that the return spring is deformed.
Investigating the cause of deformation, I watched everything.
What I found:
- wax housing support element is flexible
- the stainles steel upper washer deformed 
- the viton bolt closes eccentrically
Perhaps the element of wax was deficient, opened only slightly .

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Today we went 25 miles to 30C and the coolant temperature did not exceed 3 bullets. Route through hills, level difference + 250m.
The conclusion is that without a thermostat the cooling system works at the parameters.
The thermostat with the crown spring and the flexible guide when in the open position partially obstructs the entrance.
The deflected thermostat arc and the flexible guide determine that the wax element partially obstructs the entry or creates a countercurrent in the opened position.
Whatever the phenomenon, flow is diminished and poor cooling. The Gates thermostat is very good - only for seller ,for user's memorable (naspa' or worse - how do you spell it?)
This is my opinion on the issue.
I would like to know other opinions.

 

Edited by tyc

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On 11/19/2010 at 4:44 AM, tolsen said:

Yes that is my plan. Piping the outlet from heater matrix straight into radiator return pipe thereby reducing volume of coolant (by 40% perhaps) that need be heated when engine is warming up. I am slightly behind schedule on this modification. Partly because I am still waiting on a special tool to arrive. Smart used some special hose clips named CLIC-E and CLIC-R. I wish to reuse these clips but need a special tool which looks like this:

Posted Image

Sealey Model No. VS1661 shown. I ordered an identical Bergen tool as a lot cheaper.

The other reason why I am late is that I am preparing for a long cold winter. I transported all this wood by Smart in 3 loads:

Posted Image

Perhaps a small wood burning stove in your Smart will keep you warm?

PS. Having trouble splitting some redwood logs. Is there a special trick to it or is my axe too light?

You transported all that wood via Smart in only 3 loads?  What did you do, load up the cabin, including the driver's area, and drag it with a mule?

Okay, this is now a gauntlet.  Once I get my 450 up and running, I have got to see how much wood it can carry up from the in-law's property.

 

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1 hour ago, marinersk said:

You transported all that wood via Smart in only 3 loads?  What did you do, load up the cabin, including the driver's area, and drag it with a mule?

Okay, this is now a gauntlet.  Once I get my 450 up and running, I have got to see how much wood it can carry up from the in-law's property.

 

Of course not carried inside the wee Smart but on a trailer:

 

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There is no better towing car than the Smart 450 Cdi.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

3 minutes ago, tolsen said:

Of course not carried inside the wee Smart but on a trailer:

 

There is no better towing car than the Smart 450 Cdi.

 

Okay, I'm officially jealous.

 

Edited by marinersk
Redundant pictures removed.

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Hmmmmmm.....So if that smart will tow those weights I'm going to burn mine if it can't tow this single manned trailer I'm fabricating to sleep in....lol.  WOW...!

Have you done anything to the car's capabilities to get off the mark as in clutch, botton end power, anything?  I get onto a rough patch of ground and it feels like I have to seriously demand it to move forwards.....which is why I'm asking...?  Normal surfaces and it's fine but asking it to climb a small bump up onto the driveway or such and it almost says no way! I have to insist so to speak it does what I'm asking...maybe I'm just babying it too much?

 

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My clutch is very smooth. Of course correctly adjusted and both sockets in fork adequately lubed. Clutch actuator preloaded as per Sachs work shop instruction and bite point set in diagnostics.  

I replaced clutch friction disc two years ago. Friction material on the original disc was getting thin.  

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On 8/7/2018 at 3:22 PM, tolsen said:

My clutch is very smooth. Of course correctly adjusted and both sockets in fork adequately lubed. Clutch actuator preloaded as per Sachs work shop instruction and bite point set in diagnostics.  

I replaced clutch friction disc two years ago. Friction material on the original disc was getting thin.  

 

I'm interested to know what kind of mount did you put on the Smart.

 

 

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4 hours ago, marinersk said:

 

I'm interested to know what kind of mount did you put on the Smart.

 

 

You need to explain a bit more. Not clear what you mean. 

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