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bilgladstone

Engine sounds: videos

54 posts in this topic

I got the 4 lowering bolts for about $80. Ask them to check again....smart # 450 589 00 62 00....x1 (because all 4 come with this #)

Thanks, Glenn, I'll do that. They specifically said 4 bolts at $120 each. Maybe they didn't realize that all 4 come in one pkg. Or maybe they just want to discourage DIY repairs!And are you able to offer any observations/opinions on m problem after listening to the recording? Your notions will be greatly appreciated.Bil :sun: Edited by bilgladstone

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I got the 4 lowering bolts for about $80. Ask them to check again....smart # 450 589 00 62 00....x1 (because all 4 come with this #)

So I heard back right away: correction = $120 for the set of four bolts that you paid $80 for. Destination Kelowna MB: markup and extra 50%. typical.

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And are you able to offer any observations/opinions on m problem after listening to the recording? Your notions will be greatly appreciated.Bil :sun:

I'm not the best one to ask because my hearing is going, you know too much loud rock n roll, etc...But, I would guess that it could be the oil pump chain / sprocket. Unfortunately the only way to confirm that would be to look at it. That involves some work. I was told that a diesel truck mechanic was able to do the repair without lowering the engine.I've included a picture from a smart engine that had no oil pressure. It is an oil pump sprocket with no teeth and a new one beside it.

post-35-1302566277_thumb.jpg

post-35-1302566343_thumb.jpg

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I've included a picture from a smart engine that had no oil pressure. It is an oil pump sprocket with no teeth and a new one beside it.

I've seen 3-4 other pictures like this of the same sprocket. How the heck do they get like that!?Like dieselkiki says, this surely is a design or materials failure. Not normal.

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Extreme chain stretch (wear) can do that to bicycle gears too.

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It sound more like a worn bearing than a chain! Remove your belts and hear if the noise is alywas there. If not, take a look at the alt/water pump/A/C comp. bearing roughtness. If the noise is always there... First of all, where come from your noise?? Front of the engine? Back of the engine? Upper or lower from engine compartment?? Did you have take a look at your timing chain tention with a long flat screwdriver by the oil filling cap?? Before to order any parts... be sure of what's wrong because there's some parts that you can't return and some other are subject to return fees.

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I cannot isolate the location/source of the noise. The dealership (well, my long-time industry contact there who is in management) has offered to have one of their senior techs have a listen with his "electronic ears" (digital stethoscope?) to start with.

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"I've seen 3-4 other pictures like this of the same sprocket. How the heck do they get like that!?"

It's not aluminum, is it?

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Methinks this is starting to sound like yet another opportunity for upgraded Tolsen parts! ;)

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I would take an automotive stethoscope or 24" screwdriver and I would listen to the various parts of your engine- starting with the turbo and accessories. This is one time that someone is telling you to "stick it in your ear" and saying it without malice. Just be careful that you don't get it up against a belt.Has anyone taken a tensioner apart and are the bearing servicable or replaceable? An example would be a grand caravan where the bearings are $4 each and the tensioner and idler are close to $100.

Edited by h20loo

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The photo of a new sprocket supplied by smart142 above looks like a very odd profile to me. It looks wrong, the teeth are too shallow and the sides not steep enough. See this.

I've seen thousands of sprockets, and that photo just doesn't look quite right. Teeth are often truncated, which means a flat top to them, but that photo looks as though the tooth form is set on a circle slightly smaller than the pitch diameter and the bottom of the tooth modified. I can't imagine why except to cause excessive wear!

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I would take an automotive stethoscope or 24" screwdriver and I would listen to the various parts of your engine- starting with the turbo and accessories.

I've tried that with a cheap automotive stethoscope but I guess my hearing just sucks... couldn't isolate it at all. :huh:

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The photo of a new sprocket supplied by smart142 above looks like a very odd profile to me. It looks wrong, the teeth are too shallow and the sides not steep enough. See this.I've seen thousands of sprockets, and that photo just doesn't look quite right. Teeth are often truncated, which means a flat top to them, but that photo looks as though the tooth form is set on a circle slightly smaller than the pitch diameter and the bottom of the tooth modified. I can't imagine why except to cause excessive wear!

After looking at a half-dozen shots of failed cam-side oil pump chain sprockets, one wonders if there was a bad run of product in a particular product production period, or if the sprockets they get are made of the wrong steel or wrong shape as you suggest, or... whatever.

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The car goes to the dealership on Wednesday for a diagnostic session. The Ops Manager has agreed to have his Senior Mechanic have a look/listen at no charge. :)I am surprised and grateful for his cooperation.B :sun:

Edited by bilgladstone

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That is nice of them. You should patronize them more ;)

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That is nice of them. You should patronize them more ;)

Perhaps. If I didn't know from members in this forum and personal experience that their charges are 15-25% higher than just about any other dealership in Western Canada, I might have been more inclined to do so over the years.It's that darned "Kelowna sunshine tax" again. This is a perplexing place to live and do business.

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Ravk Robert FTW!

External diagnosis by the senior smart specialist - a fastidious fellow from Germany - finds no chain or oil pump concerns at this time. Most probable culprit is sloppy lifter, perhaps not getting sufficient oil pressure to one particular set.

The overall comment is: We've heard far worse (there were six other smarts in and out of the shop while I was there) and, though it is something that needs attention, it is not in immanent risk of any kind of failure. So I can save up my shekels for a top-end job at a later date.

Interesting side-comment: Every time you remove the valve cover, it must be replaced, because there is no replacement gasket. Is this right? Yikes... that can't be cheap.

Large kudos to Rick and Tobias at Kelowna smart Centre. Now I'm scraping pennies to have them do the oil change that is needed soon.

Bil :sun:

3

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Try a good engine flush or two and you may find the problem is sorted. Rocker cover can be reused provided you can remove it in one piece. Just refit with sealant same as for sump.

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Interesting side-comment: Every time you remove the valve cover, it must be replaced, because there is no replacement gasket. Is this right? Yikes... that can't be cheap.Bil :sun:3

Wrong. An appropriate sealant can be used.Tle oil pan doesn't have a gasket too.

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Try a good engine flush or two and you may find the problem is sorted. Rocker cover can be reused provided you can remove it in one piece. Just refit with sealant same as for sump.

Something like Seafoam?

To clean oil rings and lifters, add 1 pint Sea Foam® to 2.5 gallons of oil. [200ml in our engine?]

Sea Foam® will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters & rings that prevent them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam® to the oil at least 30- 60 miles/minutes before the next oil change interval.

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Wrong. An appropriate sealant can be used.

The oil pan doesn't have a gasket too.

I was hoping to hear that from you, Glenn! :thumbup: Maybe I can take a tube of liquid gasket to the MB service visit and tell them to use that instead of replacing the valve cover like they want to do. Do you have a particular product recommendation?

Bil :senile:

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Good news then. Glad you didn't order a chain and gear set!!

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