More power out of your Cdi - for free!

[Utopiacdi 3]

Yea, I think you're right, Bil. I think you would only be replacing one problem with another and still getting oil into the air side. Pinheads description is a good one...."Keep the crud on the crud side"Question: On my 2005 CDI, the breather pipe that connects to the TIK (furthest from the turbo of the two and oil laden - not hard to tell which is which) is very short. It's a 90 degree bend from the rocker cover to the TIK and about 8 to 10 inches long. Does anyone know the size of that pipe?

Edited August 9, 2012 by Utopiacdi

[bilgladstone 13]

IIRC it's about 13mm I.D. - I used a 1/2" brass connector and it works fine.Bil

[Utopiacdi 3]

Ok, good deal Bil. Thanks. I'm thinking that I will cut that breather tube about in half and put the connector there and then a length of similar hose to behind the IC and then down.At the TIK, I'll get an over-sized bolt with a big head and jam it into the open end of the other half and then a small hose clamp to hold it. I don't think that will get sucked into the turbo How did you block the TIK end on your car?Thanks again for the info.

[bilgladstone 13]

1. Make sure the CCV extension hose is sloped down over its entire length.1.a. I suggest you have that hose terminate towards the rearmost of the car because at idle or very slow speeds, it may waft fumes into the cabin.2. I used a brass plug to close the TIK inlet connection. I worked at a plumbing store, so that was my easiest to source.2.a. If you use a bolt or other part to plug that hole, be sure it is short enough that it doesn't project into the TIK airstream.Have fun!Bil

[Utopiacdi 3]

1. Of course 1a. Good point about the fumes....ok, out the back but away from hot stuff!2. I'll see what I can find at a local plumbing shop.2a. I was thinking about only a one inch bolt. Just enough to jam into the open end of the hose stub on the TIK and then put a little gear clamp around the hose/bolt. The bolt would have a broad head though, so it wouldn't get sucked in.Always good to have input from someone who has already done it before you. Thanks!

[pinhead19 0]

I used a 3/4" NPT plug and it pretty much threaded right in. (or was it 1"....)

[Utopiacdi 3]

Excellent! Thanks.

[Utopiacdi 3]

Did the mod yesterday. I used the 1/2" coupler to the upper pipe with gear clamps and ran about three feet of new clear hose to a spot near the back/left wheel. For the hose stub (on the TIK) I used a 3/4" OD x 1" bolt, wrapped a little T-tape around the threads and it screwed right in with a good tight fit. Also a gear clamp around it and it's solid.After a good drive, the new clear hose is black inside! I am surprised at the amount of vapour coming out. But I'm glad it's not going back into the turbo and IC.Now waiting for the EGR board from Pinhead and then I will tackle that job. I had a guy make me a blocking plate for the exhaust and it's ready to go. Will also re+re the IC at the same time and sort that issue out.Thanks for the suggestions....

[Bessy 16]

Has anyone tried dumping the crankcase vent into the exhaust so the oil that comes out gets burnt off? I realize the exhaust will have some pressure but I don't think it would be enough to push into the crankcase. Anyone up to discuss?Side note, I've always thought the stock/factory setup of the vent would create a vacuum inside the crankcase and suck the oil vapor out.

Edited August 28, 2012 by Bessy

[bilgladstone 13]

Has anyone tried dumping the crankcase vent into the exhaust so the oil that comes out gets burnt off?

I have thought of this but I'm not sure how to do it in such a way that the plastic hose won't get melted where it joins what will have to be a metal fitting near the exhaust tip. I also don't think the oil will actually be burned off in what is a relatively cool exhaust from the cdi.

As well, injecting this into the exhaust tip can make it look like the engine is smoking and a) disguise actual exhaust from which you get hints about engine condition and, 2) make it appear that your car would fail an emissions (opacity) test.

If someone tries it, please let us know...

B

[MikeT 744]

Not to mention fouling the catalyst.

[bilgladstone 13]

I was thinking only of injecting someplace between the silencer and the tailpipe. That's the only way I've seen it done before. No implications for the cat' there...B

[tolsen 630]

Bil, go for a catch tank or a separator as discussed earlier in this thread. The only problem will be space constrictions. Should be no problem for those that have no EGR valve.

Edited August 29, 2012 by smart142

[bilgladstone 13]

I've been down that road to failure, TK, and spent too much money on that approach already. I like your centrifugal separator and the next time I attempt to capture the condensed oil, that's the way I'll go. Not this year though - I have other things on my mind...Bil

[pinhead19 0]

Tolsen, do you lose any oil between changes now?

[tolsen 630]

[Not a drop. Oil level stays constant. No more any need to top up. Having said that, topping up is not a bad thing as fresh oil is being added.

[Bessy 16]

I got the idea after seeing a sand drag racer that had a big block V8 and headers that shot straight up. Steel braided lines coming from each valve cover into the header...I figure since stock configuration puts it through the engine and exhaust it can't hurt the cat any worse...but I guess combustion burns the oil up, maybe I'll just vent mine straight into the intake hose where the EGR used to be, that'll burn it up without going through the Turbo & IC first LOL

Edited August 30, 2012 by Bessy

[Utopiacdi 3]

Hi Bessy and all...I was thinking that, too, Bessy. My EGR is gonna disappear very soon now that I have the emulator board from pinhead19. Since there's no appreciable heat there, why not run that plastic breather tube right to the air intake and bypass the turbo and IC? Great minds think alike :DThe vapours end-up going into the intake in the stock configuration. We would just be injecting them at a different point in the intake. Can anyone see a down side to this?

Edited August 30, 2012 by Utopiacdi

[MikeT 744]

You mean the post-turbo, intake tract? It's pressurised, so would that really work, in fact, would not the flow would be the other way?

[Utopiacdi 3]

[Yea, you could be right, Mike. It may very well allow the air from the IC to blow back into the crank case. Rats!! Thought we were onto something. Hmmmm....

[bilgladstone 13]

You mean the post-turbo, intake tract? It's pressurised, so would that really work, in fact, would not the flow would be the other way?

+1 ... Gotta put it upstream the turbo! Without separating the oily condensate, you're right back at square one again. I still favour the TK/BMW kit.B

[Bessy 16]

Bah never thought of that...I bet the M-B engineers did and that's why it's before the turbo as it is stock...oh well.

[2StrokeBloke 0]

Bill, and those of you that 'theoretically' vent to atmosphere...can you show a photo of your actual vent location? Tube and container, or just tube?I ran a tube down as low as I could in the area just aft and left of the oil filter and just zip tied it in place, did some miles and had the whole backside of my smart 'splattered' with oil droplets. Ugh. I'm impressed that the airflow from under the car spins the oil up and forward again. What turbulence!anyhow, I'm now venting into a small catch container with 'breather' holes in the top side and so far no splatters although the breathing holes are black..

[bilgladstone 13]

B

[boundrybasher 0]

Any one ever try out the Land Rover air/oil seperator discussed here last June?