Stainless EGR-replacement intercooler pipe

[David_18 13]

Thanks ! Take your time, I leave for PEI for fews days.

[airbak2 0]

OK, I'm going to have to wrap things up on this, as I'll be calling the shop tomorrow to give the final numbers. I was hoping to at least get to ten units. Right now we have eight committed; at ten the shop said they could possibly build a jig, which would lower the labour cost somewhat, lowering the price per unit. The estimated price at 5-9 units is approximately $132 each including two Vibrant silicone hose couplers in your choice of black, blue or red. You would supply the hose clamps, or I can get Vibrant stainless T-bolt clamps for about $8 each. I anticipate that shipping to most Canadian addresses that are on regular FedEx routes would be about $15, $20 at the most.I have sent Private Messages to a couple of members who have expressed interest but not committed.Please get back to me today if you would like to order this item. Starting tomorrow I'll be asking for an initial payment either by Paypal or Interac e-Transfer (preferred). I don't know the final price, but assuming we stay at eight units, expect the price to be $132 plus GST (5%) and QST (8.5%), so $150. If I can bargain with the shop any further, I will pass the savings along and charge for shipping appropriately.

Hello ... I just picked up my smarty and have the EGR problem as well. I see these posts are from last year but would I be able to get a hold of one of these EGR replacement pipes :)thx

[bilgladstone 13]

What I did:

Buy the EGR emulator board - see Cadillacman's link above.

Remove the entire EGR along with the two hoses, upper and lower.

Install a blocking plate on the exhaust feed tube

Remove the upper hose from the EGR - you will reuse this - simple circumferential gear clamp.

Cut the lower hose elbow off the EGR - it has a fitting permanently attached, so cut this as long as you can. It is easier to do this if you remove it from the EGR coupling first. The longer you can cut it, the easier it will be to fit the new straight pipe. You will need a new clamp to fit the new pipe into this elbow.

As to the straight pipe that will replace the EGR mix housing, I went to Canadian Tire and purchased an 18" length, 1-3/4" I.D. resonator extension, p/n 548651. It has a flanged end that is slightly larger I.D.

You will cut this part short and the resulting piece should have one narrower end and one larger end. This is because the upper elbow has a slightly larger I.D. than the lower elbow.

Fit the two elbows in place on the lower outlet and upper inlet air barbs, lined up such that the open ends in the middle point straight at one another. Measure between the two to determine the length you need to cut the pipe so that it sits sufficiently into either opening to properly fasten your clamps. Measure this twice.

Cut the 18" pipe to fit (remember the two different diameters) and file off any burrs or nicks.

Loosely fit the three pieces together and fit into place. Manipulate them until everything looks excellent. Fasten the clamps.

Somewhere here, I have the template for making a stainless steel blocking plate and I will add it once I locate it for you.

HTH,

Bil

later.... here is the template http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?act=atta...sg&id=27894

Edited July 14, 2012 by bilgladstone

[David_18 13]

Steel pipe or plastic (PVC) ?

[bilgladstone 13]

Must be steel or aluminium as it is too close to hot stuff and PVC or ABS would deteriorate quickly.B

[Bessy 16]

I went and bought the pipe you speak of Bil, it has two expanded ends, which means that I have enough pipe to do two cars...just incase someone in the Burlington/Oakville/Hamilton area wants the other half. I also bought 4 standard hose clamps, two stainless steel and two zinc plated (see which two last longer)Total cost $17.75, I will add it to this weekend's list :)Anyone wanna buy a clean used EGR Valve?

[bilgladstone 13]

By the way, this is a DIRTY job. Be prepared. I find Sunlight dish soap works a treat for cleanup.B

[David_18 13]

By the way, this is a DIRTY job. Be prepared. I find Sunlight dish soap works a treat for cleanup.B

Haha, my problem is almost all my screws are jam in rust ... I have 4 of my 6 or 8 screws of my Crash-Bar that i can't remove.. Grr Edited July 27, 2012 by David_18

[Francesco 71]

Yes, that happened to me a couple of years ago. You will need an "impact screwdriver" that you hit with a hammer, also use a torch to heat the screws and break the Loc-Tite

[David_18 13]

Yes, that happened to me a couple of years ago. You will need an "impact screwdriver" that you hit with a hammer.

Yes, but the head of the screws are completly "destroy", the Torx key can't grab it correctly...I think I'll have to gride it and use a flat screwdriver....I hope that screws onto the valve will not be too bad.( I hate rust.. ) Edited July 28, 2012 by David_18

[Bessy 16]

Is there such thing as a clean job on a diesel? I get dirty just putting fuel in it half the time.

[lebikerboy 96]

The United Petroleum Bio-Diesel card lock where I fill up, even provides gloves!

[Bessy 16]

The United Petroleum Bio-Diesel card lock where I fill up, even provides gloves!

My fuel station gives me Canada's Second Currency, and if I get the flyer I get a Multiplier Coupon. Then I can use that second currency to buy Car Stuff, guess I could buy some gloves haha.

[David_18 13]

I have my pipe !I will try to unmount my crashbar and all the stuff next week !

[David_18 13]

My valve is off now !!

Easy job for remove the valve only, but 3 of my screws of my crash bar are completly destroy, it was the only way to remove it...

Tomorrow I will install the new pipe and reinstall everything !

And look what i have found in my Turbo...

Edited August 4, 2012 by David_18

[MikeT 744]

Time for a new one. Too bad!

[David_18 13]

Yes, but it is my 3rd turbo on this car... I still have the same power and everything looks fine. It run like that since 1 1/2 year. I don't want to pay 800-1000$ for a new one and the problem can again 1 year after...

[MikeT 744]

So what exactly was causing that damage?

[David_18 13]

Not sure, but i do a lot of short drive (around 5 km), i thing it is not a very good thing.

For this turbo is on a trip Repentigny - Rimouski during a "snow storm" with lots of wind. The car has forced all along and has made ​​Quebec, the noise started ...

Final result :

Edited August 4, 2012 by David_18

[bilgladstone 13]

David,What is that horizontal bar across the fan?B

[David_18 13]

David,What is that horizontal bar across the fan?B

This is for holding the fan in place, we cut one part of the original support for install the Flex-a-Lite fan. But i thing this fan is not pushing enought air because the fan run almost everytime.. i will check this during the week.Someone now what is the "Airflow-Cu. Ft./Min." (CFM) for the original fan ? For the Flex-alite 106, it is 340... Edited August 4, 2012 by David_18

[bilgladstone 13]

This is for holding the fan in place, we cut one part of the original support for install the Flex-a-Lite fan. But i thing this fan is not pushing enought air because the fan run almost everytime.. i will check this during the week.Someone now what is the "Airflow-Cu. Ft./Min." (CFM) for the original fan ? For the Flex-alite 106, it is 340...

I think it was close to 300... I have been pondering the fan - seems to me the motor takes up a large percentage of the available opneing and the air almost all the air flows near the circumference. I wonder if there is a different sttyle fan with a small motor footprint?B

[David_18 13]

I think it was close to 300... I have been pondering the fan - seems to me the motor takes up a large percentage of the available opneing and the air almost all the air flows near the circumference. I wonder if there is a different sttyle fan with a small motor footprint?B

Yeah, my second was something like that : http://www.cafr.ebay.ca/itm/7-Black-Slim-T...=item3f1a7cb32f

[tolsen 630]

So what exactly was causing that damage?

Foreign material ingress. Usually caused by poorly fitted air ducts or free flow air filters. Dirt & oil caking up inside TIK pipe and turbo inlet is typical tell tale sign.

[David_18 13]

Foreign material ingress. Usually caused by poorly fitted air ducts or free flow air filters. Dirt & oil caking up inside TIK pipe and turbo inlet is typical tell tale sign.

Maybe, There was a lot of dirt there, and I have already retightened the attachment a few times...