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blitz

New Exhaust!

52 posts in this topic

Just got my car back after a long time planning on what kind of exhaust I wanted. I must say its nice and sporty, noticeable increase and my plan that I told came true. Are there better engine mounts available?? It's not loud at idle but a bit of a rumble through the Rpm range.

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Let me qnow what u think.

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Nice! Did you mold the valance yourself? That is exactly what I have in mind for when I mount my dual-centre-out exhaust.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I got it out of europe cuz paying 300 bux for A rear valance was to much for me and didn't look rightI will try to get a video up on what it sounds like

Edited by blitz

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I just do NOT get dual exhaust thinking...It is a three cylinder engine, hence it should have either a triple exhaust or a 1 1/2 exhaust. It's only logical.Actually, it looks pretty good!

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Does it have a cat? Stainless? How much? Looking good!

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I see the cool twin tips, and would like to hear your sound recording, but what is behind the panels? What brand did you choose?Bil :senile:

Edited by bilgladstone

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Engine mounts:

There is an off-the-shelf solid rubber mount from BMS offered by smartmadness But that looks pretty extreme and suitable for track use but not on the street IMHO.

Or you could DIY urethane mounts like this HERE

Or you could use a caulking gun with suitable product and fill the OEM mounts in-situ - jack the engine a little first, to unload the engine mounts, to get good support from the product on the lower half of the mount - leave raised for 24-48 hours for product to set. I did the two rear mounts on my wee smartie.

I also have another idea in mind too, but it's just a thought experiment not worth sharing at this stage.

Remember that what you are doing with harder mounts: transferring engine vibration to the chassis, and from there to your butt, your feet and hands on the wheel. This can be annoying, especially if you do much long-distance driving. Also, constraining the engine more rigidly de-couples some internal engine vibration from the buffering/dampening effect of the flexible mounts, potentially causing more wear to internal moving parts. There is a reason that engines aren't just bolted directly to the frame.

So think about it:- what amount of stiff and shaky racetrack feel (as well as exhaust drone) you and your passengers will accept on a daily street ride. The closer to track performance you get, the less comfortable the car, and the more frequent the maintenance intervals and part replacements will become.

You kind of have to decide where, on the continuum between cushy street and full-on track, you want to end up.

Bil :drive:

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I think he was asking about how to mount the exhaust more securely, which as we've learned is necessary with the heavier after-market systems.

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OK - I have nothing to contribute to that first question. My answer to the second question is above.Maybe he can drop a maker's name on us... that will also help with the question about mounting the exhaust.B :sun:

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To answer allyour questions about the exhaust; it is stainless straight pipe with a tiny resonator in line, no flex pipe installed, used stock downpipe to 2 1/4 inch pipe. It made a hell of a difference in the upper gears. 2 3 4. The exhaust was my design and my exhaust guy made it true. Some may think it's pricy@400 cash but to me it was worth it to have center exhaust and a nice tolerable rumble and a 1/4 of the price of a brabus kit if u could ever find. You can hear the turbo better and while driving hearing the turbo pushing boost. Traffic has a hard time keeping up with me now:p it may be the exhaust that I hear but it almost seems that it shifts faster or maybe just more tolerable.Sorry for the sloth like reply, twas at work all day:people and couldn't wait to drive home.

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Engine mounts:

There is an off-the-shelf solid rubber mount from BMS offered by smartmadness But that looks pretty extreme and suitable for track use but not on the street IMHO.

Or you could DIY urethane mounts like this HERE

Or you could use a caulking gun with suitable product and fill the OEM mounts in-situ - jack the engine a little first, to unload the engine mounts, to get good support from the product on the lower half of the mount - leave raised for 24-48 hours for product to set. I did the two rear mounts on my wee smartie.

I also have another idea in mind too, but it's just a thought experiment not worth sharing at this stage.

Remember that what you are doing with harder mounts: transferring engine vibration to the chassis, and from there to your butt, your feet and hands on the wheel. This can be annoying, especially if you do much long-distance driving. Also, constraining the engine more rigidly de-couples some internal engine vibration from the buffering/dampening effect of the flexible mounts, potentially causing more wear to internal moving parts. There is a reason that engines aren't just bolted directly to the frame.

So think about it:- what amount of stiff and shaky racetrack feel (as well as exhaust drone) you and your passengers will accept on a daily street ride. The closer to track performance you get, the less comfortable the car, and the more frequent the maintenance intervals and part replacements will become.

You kind of have to decide where, on the continuum between cushy street and full-on track, you want to end up.

Bil :drive:

Well I just got my lowering springs my plan is to make it sportier than what it is, ya ya I know it's not a sports car :P

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Engine mounts:

There is an off-the-shelf solid rubber mount from BMS offered by smartmadness But that looks pretty extreme and suitable for track use but not on the street IMHO.

Or you could DIY urethane mounts like this HERE

Or you could use a caulking gun with suitable product and fill the OEM mounts in-situ - jack the engine a little first, to unload the engine mounts, to get good support from the product on the lower half of the mount - leave raised for 24-48 hours for product to set. I did the two rear mounts on my wee smartie.

I also have another idea in mind too, but it's just a thought experiment not worth sharing at this stage.

Remember that what you are doing with harder mounts: transferring engine vibration to the chassis, and from there to your butt, your feet and hands on the wheel. This can be annoying, especially if you do much long-distance driving. Also, constraining the engine more rigidly de-couples some internal engine vibration from the buffering/dampening effect of the flexible mounts, potentially causing more wear to internal moving parts. There is a reason that engines aren't just bolted directly to the frame.

So think about it:- what amount of stiff and shaky racetrack feel (as well as exhaust drone) you and your passengers will accept on a daily street ride. The closer to track performance you get, the less comfortable the car, and the more frequent the maintenance intervals and part replacements will become.

You kind of have to decide where, on the continuum between cushy street and full-on track, you want to end up.

Bil :drive:

Excellent points Bil, and as always, i love reading them :D

I have experienced Paul's (BMS) 451 mount installed on a 451 as a passenger. I did not notice a single difference in vibration in takeoff versus the regular 451 mount. Turbo or non-turbo'ed 451 did not matter as well. That said, I imagine it could be different for the 450. I need a center mount (current one is original to the car and is perished) so I may "take one for the team" and buy the BMS mount in the coming weeks. Lots of vibration right now from the worn out mount. Not tooth-filling-removing vibration but certainly worse than the BMS part might introduce. Again, I'll have to wait and see.

Also, BMS (Paul Barnes) makes the rear wheels wedge kits bilgladstone and I have installed on our smarts. Love those, thus my willingness to try his mount.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Also, OP/blitz what kind of exhaust and cat did you use? Flexpipe? Pictures please!!

Edited by briand

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No pics? I bet it's a stock muffler with a tip welded on :P

Edited by Coast Steve

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Word on the street is, It's a polished stock unit with couple of bends and a Canadian tire dual tip welded on it. :barbie:

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If it had a catalyst, I would consider buying one.

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What I gather from what is written above, is that this is a 2.25" elbow that comes off the exhaust manifold and points down at an angle towards the centre of the valance. After the elbow comes a very short resonator and then an elbow that turns toward the rear of the car, with a twin tip.It's very light and simple. No cat. No complex silencer. No flex. Just a modified straight pipe, with the little resonator acting as a wave accumulator and providing a little back pressure and sound attenuation.No big secret. Unless I miss my guess. Mike, you could make one with a mini-cat in place of blitz's resonator.Bil :sun:

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I was just pulling the dude's leg, as they say ;)

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Someone sent me a pic. maybe THIS is it!Welds may need a bit of grinding though.

post-3704-1347202135_thumb.jpg

post-3704-1347202196_thumb.jpg

Edited by Coast Steve

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