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Zymeout

Omg!

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I just took my 2006 smart in cuz it wouldnt fire up... Boundary MB replaced the Computer and Fuel pump....$2800.00.700 kms later I get three bars on the shift indicator and it wont go into gear. Back to Boundary MB on a flat deck.Now I am told the Main Engine wiring harness is fried and the clutch plates are weak. Only130,000 km on it. Driven nicely too.Please give us $6000.00 (six thousand dollars!!!) plus labor.Anybody have any ideas?I am screwed....

Edited by Zymeout

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Sorry to hear that! I don't have any bright ideas, but I definitely feel your pain, brotha. I'd be devastated too.Let's hope someone here can offer a good idea.Bil :sun:

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Wow! I'm very sorry to hear... You could pick up a used one for cheap and fix it yourself... There are some for as low as $5000 in Victoria.

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There is an off-chance the three bars are due to a chafed wiring harness by the intercooler scoop, a $2 DIY fix if you find such a problem.FWIW, when my green car had 84,000 km and the clutch actuator was changed at my cost, I was warned that the clutch took a beating during the slurred shifts that the actuator caused. 150,000 km later, it's still on the original clutch...

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Posted (edited) · Report post

My well maintained 2005 cdi with 53350 km and no previous problems would not start, it was cranking over slowly so replaced the battery with the official smart car replacement two days ago (total cost $146.33 from TPM) still will not start. Have to get it toted to TPM Victoria for 8 am Monday, the earlest they can fit me in. Can't wait to see how many thousands it will cost to fix.

Edited by Roger

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Unlucky you! Which TPM is it going to?

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OMG| UpdateAfter examining the connects for the main wiring harness and the Control Box on the left of the engine, I found the problem. CORROSION! Many connection pins had corroded right off. Lots of green rust on many of the pins too.So here is a plan for everybody... take a very close look at both ends of the connectors. I am going to apply a water repellent designed for electrical contacts on my other smart car before it gets screwed up too.If all looks good then maybe some silicon or something like it can prevent water getting in.Has anybody had this problem before. This car is out of service until I make a decision on what to do with it. QUOTED REPAIR WOULD HAVE COST 4000.00 PLUS LABOR OF ABOUT 10 HOURS. I thank everybody for their comments too!I wonder if there is a mechanic in the lower mainland who works on smarts because I my try picking up a used harness and control box somewhere...

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My well maintained 2005 cdi with 53350 km and no previous problems would not start, it was cranking over slowly so replaced the battery with the official smart car replacement two days ago (total cost $146.33 from TPM) still will not start. Have to get it toted to TPM for 8 am Monday, the earlest they can fit me in. Can't wait to see how many thousands it will cost to fix.

Good Luck... I am rather shocked at the quality of the Smart Car. I have spent more on my smart than anyother car I have ever had in my life. Sick thing is....I still kinda believe in them....go figureCarl

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Why oh why doesn't Toyota buy the rights to the smart, build them with Toyota quality and reliability, yet still keep the fun quirky feel and the fuel efficiency? And allow me to second the suggestion of Eddy at Flying Tiger.Only half the problems with the smart is due to them being designed and built for an ideal climate, the other half is MB sloppy work and gouging prices.That said I've had very little trouble with mine. Some combination of coastal climate, lots of highway miles, shortened oil change intervals, Eddy, religious avoidance of MB, fuel conditioner and probably a bit of luck belongs in there as well.

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Toyota? That wouldn't be any fun! They'd turn it into something bland like....like an IQ! Which makes a Corolla look positively enticing.All harness repair kits are available, changing the whole thing may cost 5 grand at a dealer but you don't need to spend anywhere near that in all likelihood. I've not heard of pins being corroded clean off before, even in the mega rust belt.

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A few tips if you are going to do some repair work on electrical harnesses:

To help with the corrosion (green dusty stuff) you can use a bit of dielectric grease to help slow down the speed of corrosion - here's a vid to learn more http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8W7o-CRRmGo

To clean any shabby pins this tool is a must: Its called a Lenline Pen. Kinda like one of those eraser pens but instead of rubber it has a fiberglass shaft. It the best tool to remove rust, corrosion, and oxidation. If you use sandpaper you end up speeding up the oxidation timeline: http://www.e-sonic.com/aboutus/cat/I/illuminated%201.pdf We order them from electro-sonic when we get in all our other electronics to the shop but you can find it at small electronic hobby shops. There is one one Main St here in Vancouver. I had to rebuild a wiring harness & fuse block for a car that had been in water (Lots of rust!!!) and this is the only tool that could have ever done the job.

If you are going to wrap up any harnesses with electrical tape Do Not use cheapo stuff from Canadian Tire or something. They have really pore dies and it turns the tape into a sticky gewy mess in time - something most of use have had to deal with. Use Scotch brand #88 or #33. Once I needed to get back into a harness I wrapped 10+ years after I taped it up and I could still reuse the same tape. No goo, not mess to clean, just simple & clean. Doesnt get brittle in the cold, or melt in the hot, very nice and stretchy, etc, etc.

Good luck with the repairs.

OMG| Update

After examining the connects for the main wiring harness and the Control Box on the left of the engine, I found the problem. CORROSION! Many connection pins had corroded right off. Lots of green rust on many of the pins too.

So here is a plan for everybody... take a very close look at both ends of the connectors. I am going to apply a water repellent designed for electrical contacts on my other smart car before it gets screwed up too.

If all looks good then maybe some silicon or something like it can prevent water getting in.

Has anybody had this problem before. This car is out of service until I make a decision on what to do with it.

QUOTED REPAIR WOULD HAVE COST 4000.00 PLUS LABOR OF ABOUT 10 HOURS.

I thank everybody for their comments too!

I wonder if there is a mechanic in the lower mainland who works on smarts because I my try picking up a used harness and control box somewhere...

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$4K plus 10 hours of labor for repair of an engine harness? I'm no tech, but that seems extremely steep to me. It should be possible, although somewhat labor intensive (but not 10 hours) to splice, solder and reconnect...?

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I suspect a new SAM and likely more than one wire harness is included in that $4000.

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