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reglys

Engine Shaking

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Hi everyoneI didn't use my Smart for two weeks so far and when I tried to start it tonight, the engine was shaking like hell. I stopped the engine for a few seconds and tried to start it again and got the same result. I am expecting the worst for my engine. Any idea what could be wrong? Anybody having bad experience in the past with their Smart when it is not used for a long period.Thank you

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Your alternator has seized due to corrosion. The exact thing has happened to me a few times. If you are lucky, you can try starting the car a few times to see if the starter will loosen the alternator. If this doesn't work then you will need to gain access to the alternator to loosen it with a wrench. There is information somewhere on this forum on how to gain access and perform this task. I have found that heat and humidity promote corrosion. I had to use a wrench on the alternator after not using our 2005 smart for a month when we were away on a trip.Good luck.

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If it is just running roughly at idle, it could be an injector or bad fuel problem. Is it running smoothly above idle speed? If the engine is not making any metallic ticking noises, it is probably an injector or perhaps a collapsed engine mount.

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Your alternator has seized due to corrosion. The exact thing has happened to me a few times. If you are lucky, you can try starting the car a few times to see if the starter will loosen the alternator. If this doesn't work then you will need to gain access to the alternator to loosen it with a wrench. There is information somewhere on this forum on how to gain access and perform this task. I have found that heat and humidity promote corrosion. I had to use a wrench on the alternator after not using our 2005 smart for a month when we were away on a trip.Good luck.

Thanks Ed. I think you are right. The theory of something got wrong because of heat and humidity make a lot of sense. The car was going great before this incident. I might due for a new alternator and a new belt. Must be not cheap on this car :angry:

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No need for a new alternator. They seize due to rust between the rotor and stator, nothing to do with the bearings.. Tight clearances make for a small and efficient alternator, but are prone to seizing when left in damp conditions. Get it freed up and it will wear away the rust instantly to a running clearance of approximately 2 weeks sitting time, like usual. Carefully spray a rust preventive in the vent holes to prevent this ever happening again. Best done running, so that means very carefully! While you're at it treat the rear reluctor rings as well. These two items should be done annually, and shame on MB for not knowing that.

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Rear reluctor rings! Thanks for reminding me... I have to order some. Shame on MB for only selling complete axle shafts as their fix for this.

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Thank you for your good replies. I didn't have chance to fix my problem so far . I will keep you posted about it. To Mike : I thing i have tried to wind up the engine but not to much was happening. So far I am scared to try it again before i try to fix something.Cheers

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No need for a new alternator. They seize due to rust between the rotor and stator, nothing to do with the bearings.. Tight clearances make for a small and efficient alternator, but are prone to seizing when left in damp conditions. Get it freed up and it will wear away the rust instantly to a running clearance of approximately 2 weeks sitting time, like usual. Carefully spray a rust preventive in the vent holes to prevent this ever happening again. Best done running, so that means very carefully! While you're at it treat the rear reluctor rings as well. These two items should be done annually, and shame on MB for not knowing that.

I think my alternator may have seized. I had it sitting for a week in June-July, ran it one day, and it wouldn't start the next. The battery is now dead.in any case, if access to the alternator is difficult, how can this be done while the car is running?

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... in any case, if access to the alternator is difficult, how can this be done while the car is running?

With great difficulty I assume since airflow is from back to front, i.e. from the end that you can't get access to, to pulley end. Spraying oil into the alternator fan whilst engine is running will only blow the oil into your face. Perhaps one can run a long straw down the front facing side of engine and spray blindly oil all over the back of alternator. Safest method is probably to spray the windings whilst engine is off, then run engine for a short time, turn off and repeat spraying etc etc.

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I didn't have any trouble. Up on (extra secure, triple checked) blocks. There are what appears to be vent holes on the sides, I just sprayed in there with a straw. Now, I haven't seen a removed alternator, nor looked closely at mine with good light, so if tolsen is sure all I did was rust-proof the irrelevant outside of the stator lamination core I will believe him, and in the fall redo it according to his suggestion. No long vacation this year anyway, so the longest it will park is about 10 days in early September. Much as I love my smart, transporting the canoe and luxury camping gear for two 500 km highway and then 30 km logging road is better done with the RAV4!

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With great difficulty I assume since airflow is from back to front, i.e. from the end that you can't get access to, to pulley end. Spraying oil into the alternator fan whilst engine is running will only blow the oil into your face. Perhaps one can run a long straw down the front facing side of engine and spray blindly oil all over the back of alternator. Safest method is probably to spray the windings whilst engine is off, then run engine for a short time, turn off and repeat spraying etc etc.

Well, it wasn't that difficult. I did the spray, run, spray first, though. When the engine was running, there was no spray back - could it be that the fan is oriented in the opposite direction for the Canadian 450s? Of course, if your alternator is seized, you don't have much choice but to spray without it running.In any case, I was able to revive a battery that was putting out between 0.00V and 0.01V this morning to one that cranks out > 12 during idle and > 13.60 while under load. It successfully restarted several times, too. I used evilution's method (down at the bottom). I didn't take off the arch liner. I also didn't drop the engine, but it was a tight fit to get the 24 mm bit (or 15/16 that I used) and the torque bar/ratchet in there.I would wholeheartedly endorse anyone's attempts to loosen up the alternator before concluding that it's dead.

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Hi everyoneYou were right. the alternator was seized. MB told me that the alternator was not recoverable. Thank you again

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If you need a new alternator, try Ateliers Limar on Bourgogne in Chambly. I've used him for Mercedes alternator and others that I've had. I don't know if he has parts for Smart but his prices are reasonable

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Good Canadian elbow grease is what you need to free that seized alternator. Does not take long. Just work it with lots of micro angular movements on its pulley nut. The cost for fitting a replacement alternator may be an incentive to keep at it until it spins.

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Old thread, but I've got a source that carries new Bosch starters for Smart at $364 plus $4.99 shipping. PM me, can't post it here, forum doesn't allow it.

Edited by dellwas

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Don't know about an average, but mine lasted until 185,000km or so, I had also lost the alternator splash shield at some point which according to Glenn ( who would know) didn't do it any favours. In my case it got weak, and I suspect the diodes started to go ( which may have been hastened by last summer-fall when the original battery was going), mine showed no signs of seizing ( the the removable lower bolt ( I think it was the lower one) that is funny shaped didn't want to go anywhere, Glenn probably wound up spending more time getting that out than on anything else he did that day.

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Mine lasted 247,274 km and was going strong when the car was totalled. The car was driven in salt brine every winter.

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I'm on the 3th alt, on mine. The 2 first where replaced under warranty. One wasn't charging and the second too. It seems like the regulator was failed. The last one was replaced by me because the rotor shaft bearings were bad. But that was my fault. I drove on flood road and the water came inside alot of parts as alternator, clutch actuator, wheels bearings etc...

The last alt is on the car since it have 185000km (2012 october) and still alive today with 228000km.

So, this kind of driving is realy hard on an alternator. Even more if the alternator is located under the car as on a smart CDI! :rolleyes_anim:

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Replaced at 78k, bad regulator was the official word (like they really knew; it simply wasn't charging).

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