Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
reglys

Coil Springs

95 posts in this topic

Hi everyoneMy smart is falling apart. I am going to sale it. End of the Smart adventure. My last problem was a seized alternator ( see my post engine shaking). Now I have 2 new problems. Both front coil springs are broken. First time I have seen that on a car. On top of that, the ABS and traction control lights are ON. I guess this is a reluctor ring problem on rear wheels ( or when the coil springs colapsed, it broke something on the front ABS sensors?).What is the cost of replacing two coil springs at the front. And sure, MB will say: You should replace your front shocks by the same time. $$$$$Thank you to read my complaintCheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Front springs are about $100 each.Reluctor rings are expensive to replace at the dealer :mellow:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would not drive a smart in Montréal! The roads are so nasty! Sorry your adventure is ending. Mine is going OK.....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is possible that when one of the front springs broke, it dropped down and took the abs sensor lead out.Sorry to hear about your issues.My cars have given me some problems (including broken springs) but nothing that can't be overcome.In my particular case, they serve a need as commuter cars.I save 500 per month in fuel costs alone (compared to my previous commuter) just on my commute, excluding my wife's commute in her car.Saves wear and tear on my other cars.The cars are a bit 'quirky' but I am also like that...Dale

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

I've had 8 (eight) broken springs, 6 front and 2 rear. Broken front springs were replaced once by Smart for free. No more broken springs after I modified spring end supports and slightly reduced tyre pressure (my handbook states 2.5 bar on the rear which is very high and made ride kind of rough). Having spring breaks seem to be fairly common on modern cars and not only limited to Smarts.Beware of aftermarket springs as there are different length, especially on the front. Later 450 Smarts have longer springs with higher spring preload. These suffer less spring breaks. Also, do not damage springs by using hook type spring compressors when fitting. Hook type spring compressors are not recommended by spring manufacturers.

Edited by tolsen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a lot of fun driving my smart but you are right Mike; roads are very difficult here for any car. Pothole slalom was not enough I guess.To Tolsen: 8 broken springs!!! You might have worst roads than us over here. OK I stop complaining :rolleyes: rDo you think front springs change and new reluctor rings could be done by a mechanic who has never worked on a smart before.Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you think front springs change and new reluctor rings could be done by a mechanic who has never worked on a smart before.

A good mechanic can fix anything. However if he has never worked on a smart it would probably take 2-3 times longer than a tech who is very familiar with the smart.Example for the reluctor ring change the rear panels have to be removed, easy when you know how, a learning experiece otherwise.The smart techs are fast but change the entire drive shafts. A regular mechanic could be shown how to change the ring only.I would go with a regular mechanic and bring lots of info.Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Glenn, print off the How To info from Evilution and find a Mechanic who is willing to learn. I have great mechanical knowledge (grew up working on cars) and I have been able to fix/modify everything I've needed to fix/modify on my Smart. I have changed the rear reluctor rings and the most difficult part was finding the proper wrenches and sockets. I have not changed springs yet, but they seem the same as any other car.If you've gotta fix the car anyways to get some real money out of selling it then why not just keep it a little longer? :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if you are even a bit handy and like DIY's I would perform all of those tools yourself, or find a friend that is capible and do it together as a weekend project. All this info is on the web and i bought the reluctor rings for mine off the internet for a few $$'s each compared to a new drive shaft at the stealership.I just did my springs on the weekend 2nd broken one for me 4th for the life of the car. I got sick of the OEM ones breaking and bought a set of H&R (eibach's would be similar) because they are atleast twice the thickness and I know Eibach has a lifetime warranty, however they would make the car lower and firmer on bumps. The hardest part of this is always getting the top nut off the front struts, if you can get that off you are golden. I didn't even use spring compressors, the spring rate on these cars is slow low I compressed them with one hand and started the nut with the otherThe reluctor rings on the rear are fairly simple also, however its best to have access to a torch/heating device because you need to heat them up to slide to the proper position on the drive shaft. Both jobs should easily be done in an afternoon. I did the springs on my car in about an hr (my struts had been anti seized from the last time I removed them)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ha ha, your car sounds just like mine.....Just replaced a seized alternator, and now have broken front coil springs, with the ABS light on. But I sure do love the car, with the little diesel and six speed, it just feels so right!!!!!Both H&R, and Eibachs are on at Tire rack, 187 and 211 respectively, with 65 added for shipping, sounds good to me. My question is for everyone is....Which is the better choice, and is there also duty involved???Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have the Eibachs and they really improved the ride and handling.As far as duty goes, if there was any Tire Rack would charge youat the source. There doesn't appear to be any but there is brokerage.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought mine off Glen (he happen to have a set of H&R laying around) I like the H&R better because they are less of a drop because I winter drive it. I have seen Eibachs at anythingauto.com for $180 free shipping in US, if you live near a border just drive across and pick them up if not I'm sure they will ship across for a decent price too. Also call local speed shops (with the part # to shorten your experience and see what they have for pricing). I really like the feel of the springs, they are definitely firmer but less body roll which makes me and everyone that rides in the car feel safer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually, the Eibach's are 1.0 F&R whilethe HR's are .5 F & 1.25 R...

Edited by lebikerboy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I swear to the superior Lesjöfors springs. Paid GBP 50 for a set of 4 inclusive of delivery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Better than swearing AT them!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had my Volvo into Alignement Darche on Montee St. Hubert and Grande Alle last year and they were dropping the engine from a Smart to repair something or other and the service writer claimed the mech could do it with his eyes closed. At the time they were at $60/HR. No recommendation but worth a try. I've also got used parts from Recyclage St. Bruno. Give them a try for your parts. I have a set of Eibach springs that I was keeping for my daughter's car but she is now with child and needs something into which one can put a baby, so that will be up for sale. I have a set on my wife'a cab and if you're interested, P.M. me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just had both front springs replaced by the dealer at 115,00 km. I've never heard of both spring breaking but reading this post, I guess it happens.I also had to replace a reluctor. I replaced the rear right one myself. I ordered it from the UK and it took me two weeks to get it ($50 including shipping) It wasn't a hard job and it took me about 1.5 hours, most of which was just learning how to the job. If I had to replace another reluctor, it would probably take me half the time. It's not physically hard, nor do you need really special tools, but torx sockets are a must. The hardest part I found was pressing on the new reluctor. The old one was cracked so it came off easily. The new one had to be gently heated with a torch and hammered on using the old reluctor to protect the new one from hammer blows.The problem with having the dealer replace a reluctor is they replace the whole drive shaft, not just the reluctor. There are some fine threads you can look up that will walk you through the process and even tell you what tools you need.BTW: Although I bought a new output shaft seal, I couldn't get the old one off. I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best. Now, some 35,000 km later the seal is still not leaking. Maybe I was just lucky or maybe you don't always have to replace the seal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I had to move on it, so I ordered a set of Eibachs from anything auto, came to 190 including shipping to a US address, luckily the ex lives in Maine, and my daughter is going to visit in a couple of weeks.Got a new alternator for 355, taxes in, but now I need a battery........But I am looking forward to driving her with the new springs, they will lower her 1 inch......all I need now is a remap :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I bought a Lisle 56750 Seal Puller from a local tool supply. I paid less than $15 taxes in. I didn't want to take a chance on damaging the seating surface while removing the old seal.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

HiReading your post about changing the reluctor rings motive me to do it on my smart.Recently, a non-Mercedes mechanical changed both front springs, front shocks, left front bearing plus the alignment on my car. Ouch!!! And I still have an issue with the ABS light.Do you know if smart recommend changing the seal on the gearbox when changing the driving shaft?Is there any way to know which wheel is creating the ABS shutdown without removing the wheels and checking each reluctor ring?Do we have to drain the oil in the gearbox before poping up the driving shaft?In the past, I had some issue with the ABS light, traction light and brake light lighting up all together. It was happening may be once a year. Now the ABS light and the traction ligth go on when driving at high speed and go off when I restart the car and drive at low speed.Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

broken springs are, in my humble opinion, bad design that fosters corrosion. There have been some very interesting and knowledgable discussions as to why they fail but looking at my the corrosion where they leave the top cup is obvious. The condition of the top cup is also obvious. The new cups are anodized instead of painted - maybe a nod to the problem.Replacement of the springs is very straight forward for any mechanic. One special tool, a clamp, the rest is easy (sort of). The process has been well documented by Evilution.WRT to the reluctor. No doubt it is cracked - they all are. But they can still work for a while after that as long as they don't get loose. These cars had a chronic problem with brake light switches. It was corrected with some redesign and fixed under warranty. Dispite that mine failed last winter again. The shop diagnosed reluctors from the codes but a simple inspection showed the brake lights weren't on. Fixed the switch (cheap) - and back on the road.

Edited by swl

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Recently, a non-Mercedes mechanical changed both front springs, front shocks, left front bearing plus the alignment on my car. Ouch!!!

What did they charge????

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What did they charge????

65$/hspring : 120$ / eachshock: 120$ / eachone bearing : 190$alignment : 50$one side marker and another lightman hour 5.5hcheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone have front springs recently replaced, and have an all-in price at a smart dealership for the work?

(Edit: Woop, found it here.)

-Iain

Edited by Duck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought the front wheel bearings were integral to the hub/disc and could not be replaced by themselves?So if they can be pressed out, has anyone found a better quality replacement?Bil :sun:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

    Chatbox
    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More