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CANMAN

Comment On How To Replace The Alternator Wiki

22 posts in this topic

This thread is for comments on my Technical Wiki on How to Replace the Alternator.

Located: Articles/Technical Wikis/How to Replace the Alternator

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?autocom=...ticle&id=31

My alternator belt was squeeling so I finally decided to fix it.

After jacking the car removing the wheel, arch liner, and belt cover.

I discovered the reason it was squeeling was that the upper alternator mounting bolt and nut were missing.

After getting the new parts I decided to try Evilutions method of removing the alternator as smarts method involves removing the entire rear clip, both rear wheels, both wheel arches, disconnecting the air intake, lowering the rear underbelly panel, disconnecting a brake line clamp, disconnecting the parking brake equalizer, disconnecting a wiring harness clip, installing lowering bolts and lowering the entire subframe.

So back to Evilutions method, when I got to the part about disconnecting the X frame, as I loosened the first bolt I became more and more concerned about the amount of stress the bolt was under.

The further out it came, the more it was bending downwards, I decided to stop because I was afraid of it springing and causing injury or damage, and it looked like it would be really hard to put back together.

So I reassembled the X frame and thought about it.

The purpose of removing the X frame was to get at the right engine mount to lower the side of the engine.

The alternator is at the front of the engine, what about the front engine mount?

I looked everywhere and could not find any areas where it would bind or cause damage.

So I removed the forward engine mount bolt and lowered the engine.

Lots of room for the alternator to be removed.

The only area I was concerned about was the tailpipe, there are lots of different tailpipe configurations and mine pressed up against the rear clip when the engine was lowered fully.

Other then that it was quick and easy.

Canman

post-9481-1346043903_thumb.jpg

Edited by CANMAN
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Front motor mount.... great tip! Cheers for that!Bil :sun:

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Sounds way eaiser than other ways I've seen...if you're really worried about the exhuast tip hitting the bodywork then removing the rear bodywork only adds a small amount of time to the process (and looks like it would make arch liner removal easier)

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Hmm interesting, I should check the upper bolt on the 240,000 km green car. Its belt is always a tad chirpy.....Thank you for making the Wiki!

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You mean you removed the centre bolt and nut, then let engine drop as required?

Posted Image

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You mean you removed the centre bolt and nut, then let engine drop as required?

Posted Image

Well I did use a jack so the "drop" was controlled.

Great picture Tolsen, yes the centre bolt and nut.

When I reassembled it I put it in the other way around to make turning the nut easier.

Canman

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Canman,Using this ingenious method to lower forward facing side of engine by separating front engine mount, how is access to other normally impossible to reach components such as starter, water pump, thermostat, glow plugs etc etc?Do you think fitting the restrictor plug is possible using your lowering method?Smart regards,TK

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Clearance for installing TK's restrictor plug is what I also would like to know!B :sun:

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TK and Bill,I didn't lower the engine all the way because of the tailpipe contacting the rear body panel. With the engine lowered until contact, I got about 2 inches of clearance at the front of the engine between it and the firewall.If you remove the rear body panel first you may get a bit more room.So it may be possible to do Tolsens Restrictor plug mod with this method, as well as the thermostat.You may have to go up from the bottom between the engine and firewall for better access.As to the starter, I specifically looked at that with the engine lowered, unfortunately the oil pan is still in the way.Canman

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Thank you for a great thread.My alternate died after 136000KM (the stator coil went open). I made drop bolts from a threaded rod puchased from OSF in Nepean.I had the alternated tested and replaced from a guy down on Gladstone for $165. Got off easy since Benson wanted over $600 for theirs.It was a bit ackward to get to the alternator the first time but now it would be a breeze if I had to do it again. I found it easier to remove both wheel panels and back cowl. It's really only a few screews and make access much easier.Thanks again. I'm glad I joined this club.

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TK and Bill,I didn't lower the engine all the way because of the tailpipe contacting the rear body panel. With the engine lowered until contact, I got about 2 inches of clearance at the front of the engine between it and the firewall.If you remove the rear body panel first you may get a bit more room.So it may be possible to do Tolsens Restrictor plug mod with this method, as well as the thermostat.You may have to go up from the bottom between the engine and firewall for better access.As to the starter, I specifically looked at that with the engine lowered, unfortunately the oil pan is still in the way.Canman

I tried this just now, as I have a restrictor plug & thermostat replacement in front of me. Rear body panels removed, front of the engine lowered as far as the remaining components allow, which is about a 14cm drop measured at the front mount's bolt hole.

Definitely no-go from the top on a car with a/c (for me). While there's modest hand & tool space available, there's too much plumbing in the way and certainly not enough space for my clic clamp pliers to work if a clamp happens to face the firewall. Note to self: find a set of clic pilers with right-angle or swiveling jaws one of these days.

From below - might be possible for someone comfortable working nearly blind & mostly by feel, but I'm not that person. The starter motor blocks most visible access to the thermostat area.

Smart_guy, I have another job for you... :)

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Same deal, I have a new thermostat to install. When I did the TK restrictor plug a few years ago I dropped the rear mounts Evilution-style and that gave me about 12 cm, enough for the Y-piece but I couldn't see how I could get at the thermostat with all the plumbing in the way. I picked up a set of smart lowering pins for $70 from West Island MB. Now I just need a better set of jack stands (my current set is only rated at 1.5 tons per axle, and don't lift too high -- and don't inspire confidence at their highest setting). Saving my loonies for a MaxJax lift.

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It's easy to get the air conditioning compressor out of the way.

Remove the drive belt.

From the right rear wheel well with the wheel arch liner removed, there are only 2 bolts mounting the compressor.

You can then fold the compressor out of the way.

Do not disconnect the air conditioning lines, just fold the A/C compressor out of the way.

Canman

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On 8/26/2012 at 10:05 PM, CANMAN said:

 

My alternator belt was squeeling so I finally decided to fix it.

I discovered the reason it was squeeling was that the upper alternator mounting bolt and nut were missing.

 

 

Thank you for the information.

I guess I also having a same issue as you stated above, and if you don't mind, can I ask you where to get the upper alternator mounting bolt and nut?

 

Thank you very much in advance!

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I need to change an alternator in the next few days on a 2005 cabrio..was dreading it until i read this article

 

thank you for posting it

 

 

now i just dread the weather (will be doing this repair outside)

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7 hours ago, LooseLugNuts said:

I need to change an alternator in the next few days on a 2005 cabrio..was dreading it until i read this article

 

thank you for posting it

 

 

now i just dread the weather (will be doing this repair outside)

You a Smartie again or a customer's...????

 

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its the cabrio that i sold last year......the new owner is local 

 

i am currently smartless

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