Speedie

Rear Wheel Bearings

28 posts in this topic

Did rear wheel bearings - one has been noisy for about 20k - the car is around 127k- the instructions on Evil's site are good for the gist but a few pointers (sorrry no photos - in a hurry) - as always this was a driveway job - no hoist - just a floor jack, wheel chocks, and simple hand toolsGet the correct 21mm 12point socket - Sears sells them (not here thought) as does KMS toolsThe axle bolt is in there really tight - I found that putting the car in gear (key on) and the park brake really tight helped (do the bolt before you remove the drums) Even then you have to use some light taps on the handle of the breaker barOnce you back the axle bolt out - give it a light tap on the end - this will loosen the splined shaft in the wheel bearingI took just the one bolt out on the suspension cross beam to the dion tube - it gives you room to work but is not really needed to get the drive shaft loose enough - you really don't have to get the drive shaft out - just out of the bearing enough that you can get to the four bolts holding it inThe 4 bearing retainer bolts are fairly tight as well but come out with just a breaker bar - you have to lift the drive shaft around to get the socket to the bolt - a selection of extensions for the socket is very helpful - the one front one at the top is easier from the side of the car - the other ones Now the fun bit - on the one side the bearing centering ring was rusted into the backing plate - really tight - no amount of hammering would have worked - especially with how floppy everything gets once the 4 bolts are out. There is a simple trick I came up with - first put the 4 retaining bolts back in loosely - get a bolt that is smaller than the lug bolt hole diameter and about 3" long - then stick it through the lug hole - once it is through thread a nut onto it - tighten it all up until the end of the bolt is against the backing plate - make sure the bolt is straight in so you don't damage the threads on the lug hole - tighten the bolt using a wrench on the nut and the bolt - this will nicely push the backing plate off - back the bolt off and turn the bearing so the bolt is now on the other side (there is room) repeat and then take the 4 bolts out. This was super easy, didn't involve cussing, large hammers or damaged car parts. Stick one of the 4 bolts through from the front to make sure the brake line is not carrying the weightClean every thing off with brake cleaner When reassembling (I painted the bearings as the originals rusted a bit) put grease in the splines of the bearing and a light coat of never seize on the outside of the centering boss on the bearing (so next time it is easier) Pay attention to the torque settings - some are fairly high so yes you need some ommph - and use a torque wrench - no one is that accurate at guessingWhen putting the splined shaft back in it should move really easy - you should be able to practically finger tighten the bolt to pull it back in - if not check the alignment and also make sure that the socket you used on the 4 bolts didn't come off the extension (don't ask - it had me puzzled for a bit). Check the hub in neutral - it should turn over easilyThe torque spec on the wheel bolt is torque to 30nm (basically tight) then an additional 90 degrees rotation - this can be a challenge as the axle wants to turn so do the old car on and in drive routine to generate a bit more resistanceThe first side took me a couple of hours (1/2 hour for head scratching on the stuck hub) the second side a lot less. Next up repairs to NuBlu's engine Cheers,Cameron

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Welcome back. I think yours is the first rear wheel bearing I've heard of that's failed.

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Welcome back. I think yours is the first rear wheel bearing I've heard of that's failed.

Mine were both replaced last Tuesday. Car sounded like a 4x4 with mudders going down the road. Lol

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Cameron's car has spacers and Steve's has monster rear wheels.....are your wheels stock, Z1K?

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Wow! Do you know why they failed?

At least two rear bearings have worn out on my 2002 Smart.They fail due to ingress of water through the inboard seal so always avoid driving along flooded roads at all cost. Wetting the seal area in grease will effectively lengthen bearing life. A good alternative is fitting grease nipples. Grease can then be injected directly to the internals of the bearing and any water and dirt at seal area be pressed out.

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I did one rear on mine when I bought it (134K) not sure if any others were done before me. It was a complete stock car at that time

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Don't forget Mike, I had a set replaced while runing stock wheels too.But the spacers and big wheels are worse you're right.

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Cameron's car has spacers and Steve's has monster rear wheels.....are your wheels stock, Z1K?

Yep. All stock, both summers and winters. My car has 113k on it now and has had 3 of the 4 wheel bearings done since I got it last October. I'm actually hoping the fourth goes within the next 7k. :D

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ELW, eh?Funny, at 241,000 km my rear bearings are fine. I did have one front one changed 180,000 km ago, under warranty.

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Hi, Folks

 I just recently inherited a 2005 smart for2 passion that had a siezed alternator (soaked in penetrating oil & freed it up). I'm assuming destroyed rear wheel bearings (sounds like a truck with mud tires) which I priced from MB Nanaimo $260 apiece isn't what I'm prepared to spend on as has 360k, but runs like a charm. I've removed one bearing & searched eBay googled the part no with no luck of locating a better priced option. Any help will be appreciated.

 

My daily driver is F350 7.3 turbo diesel long box so have some diesel savvy. 

Jason. 

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If you buy it this Saturday at the Nanaimo MB garage sale, it's be 20% off.  Still too much though, I got my spare in Germany for half that some years ago.

 

Tell us more about your car: 360K km is good.

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My uncles daily driver from Nanaimo to Duncan every day, 1 owner, I'm 2nd. I haven't used it yet.  Has the original wheel bearings which is hard to believe. Intercooler replaced a while ago with some pipes. Has a small oil leak from turbo (rust prevention crucial on wet coast)

new winter tires. 

Have to do an oil change only to find there's no sump plug, can this be done by removing oil filter?

Thanks for the link Tolsen though they don't specify they're for the 2005, why can't they use part numbers. I will get a shipping quote & let u know. 

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Go to a ship's chandlery and buy a Pela oil extractor pump to remove oil.  Filter does not hold oil in the sump.

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2 hours ago, JRbuilder said:

Thanks for the link Tolsen though they don't specify they're for the 2005, why can't they use part numbers. I will get a shipping quote & let u know. 

Seller clearly states the bearing will fit a Smart Fortwo until 2007.  Of course, same bearing on all Smart 450 and Roadster.

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1 hour ago, cadillacman said:

I got these in the mail today

20161114_151435.jpg

They will be my christmas project, provided the current ones last that long.

They've been doing the slowly increasing rumble for the last 5000 km.

You have a Smart 451?

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Look at the spline.  There are much more teeth on a 451 drive shaft compared to a 450.

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man that sucks...but better to find out now before the car is all apart

 

Tolsen...have you ever taken one apart?...are they fabricated as one piece units or is there a possibility of pressing apart and changing just the bearing ?

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Fit grease nipples on your rear bearings.  Grease periodically to wipe clean seal.  Bearings will then last a life time.

Further details in below thread:

 

1 person likes this

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I see i did that mod in 2010, six years ago.  Happy to announce my rear bearings are still fine.

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On 11/14/2016 at 6:37 PM, cadillacman said:

dreadful feeling .... not the same item ?!

eBay seller assured that they were ... 2004 thru 2014

I've not had a chance to take an old one out to compare yet

 

did you find a better source for the right ones?

 

 

Tolsens link shows up as under $60 canadian but seller doesnt specify shipping cost

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Shipping is a killer, no less than £30 to ship 2 rear wheel bearing to Canada.  That takes the cost for a pair to £95 before adding taxes and other fees your end.

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