Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
dmoonen

Smart Car Parked And Won't Start

33 posts in this topic

Quick warning on the SAM connections: Although the replacement plugs are available, if the old one has melted and burned to destruction, the pin out of the SAM has been severely damaged and the new plug won't last. A much better repair is to solder a wire internally and connect it externally. See here. If you have caught it early before the point of failure it may last.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Already ordered a new connection from Flying Tiger, wont be soldering directly to the board unless I have an issue with that connection. It wasn't an issue with the connection to the SAM it was the connection at the fuel pump itself. I'm just doing everything because quite frankly the battery was on my winter preparation to do list and from the amount of issues everyone have with the SAM connection (past issue due to lights) it might aswell be done too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Which fuel pump? Low pressure feed pump is rather inaccessible as inside the fuel tank. Connection on high pressure pump is only a third element cut out. Plug disconnected or bad contact means third element pumping element is always enabled.

Posted Image

Above photo shows the pumping element that can be disabled as fitted with a cut off solenoid. Pump element is enabled when solenoid is not energised. Solenoid simply operates a pin that keeps inlet valve in open position when solenoid is energised. The purpose of the cut off solenoid is solely to allow the pump to operate only two pumping elements, resulting in less engine power being absorbed at low engine loads.

Posted Image

Internals of high pressure pump showing polygon ring and shaft with eccentric cam. The pump generates sufficient pressure and flow to start engine even on a single pumping element.

Edited by tolsen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Alex, it was a wet weekend so I only got around to checking the alternator. It was seized, not too much but enough to let the worn belt slip on the pulley. I easily got it freed up but still couldn't get the motor to start due to another problem that I created. :wallbash: I am pretty sure that I burnt the starter last week, which I thought was only the battery run down, I'm an idiot.Today with a fresh battery and a boost, when I crank it, there seems to be a serious current drain from the starter. Both the ground lead at the battery and the one in the engine compartment get very hot. The starter turns but very slow and the volts drop to 8 volts on the scanguage even with a boost. Does this sound like a cooked starter? I'm assuming there are no rebuilds locally and it will be a dealer only replacement part?Quick question, is the alternator adjustment screw a E11 torx?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Eddy at Flying Tiger has some used or rebuilt units usually. Probably a good deal even with shipping. It does sound cooked. And no idea on the bolt size, never had to go into that area yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick question, is the alternator adjustment screw a E11 torx?

Evilution states E10, E12 and 15 mm hex. Note that the E10 on adjuster is fixed and does not turn. It is only used for tensioning belt by swinging alternator on its top pivot point.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Same problem here to. Intermittently.Started after removing and reinstalling under trays to install oil pan heater and rerouteing 115v cord.Engine turns over but will not fire. Try 2 or 3 time then starts.Will look into fuel pump connection and SAM terminal fault and report back ASAP.FYI05 Pure CDI with 87,000kms-

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/22/2012 at 3:48 AM, Roger said:
Mike T said:

12V is a tad low for a battery that's charged, in fact I would suspect that as the cause even more now. Try a jumper, just to see.

Once the battery gets down to a certain set level the computer stops working and will not let the engine run. If you fool around with it trying to jump star it and changing batteries the computer can go into a safety mode and not start even with a 100% fully charged brand new battery.If it goes into safety mode, once a good battery is in place, you have to go though the starting cycle 10 or more times with the right amount of waiting time between tries (forgot how long- somebody ?) before the engine will start ,then like magic it fires up like nothing was ever wrong. People who were not aware of this have wasted many hours fretting away on the fuel system , SAM unit and electric wiring harness, some have even given up on the car all together thinking there was some huge problem that would cost too much it fix.


Can anyone explain this process? I cannot find any info on it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

    Chatbox
    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More