Ghis77

Wanted... 450 Smart Fortwo Key With Transmitter

55 posts in this topic

I am looking for a second key for my 2006 smart fortwoI only need the transmitter.If someone have this parts or know where i can find it;)thx

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Yeah I'm looking for one too!I'm sure that about 2 or 3 weeks ago someone posted here a link to where they were offered for sale. ebay I think but I can't find the post and the search engine doesn't do 3 letter words!Anyone remember where it was or know another word for key with more than 3 letters!

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There was an Ebay link for an empty keyfob case posted, I don't recall there being an actual transmitter. Could be, but I didn't see it. An ebay search showed up this item in Taiwan, as well as plenty of 451 units, which are different and won't work. Quick visual: 451 keys have a track machined in the side of the blade, 450 are more "normal" keys cut in the edge.

A call around some wreckers may yield results, but in any case it will need to be coded by MB, whether new, used or aftermarket new.

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As far as I know, a used key cannot be recoded.I haven't found any transmitters for sale other then at Mercedes.The cost is around $300 for each key.Canman

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I guess a used key can be recoded, the problem of course is getting one, wreckers usually sell the key with the lock cylinder which is part of the shifter.And then you need to get a blank cut to match your other key.Canman

The Smart owners in Germany using used keys (only the chip) and get it progammed for €13 @SC dealers in Germany. It is working only on the W450 & W452. So they say. If I would need not only 1 key - I would get a key programmer myself. And no. They keys getting programmed in Canada at the dealer. They need the car and the second key because the new code gets on both keys. (Old and new one)

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I lost my one remaining key for the 450 somewhere in the house a couple of weeks ago. (Our cat is my chief suspect at this point). Ordered two replacement blanks and one fob (due to cost...) through MB. Two blanks and fob were around $260 and took about a week to arrive. I could have used the car hauler to take the 450 out to the dealer but rather than dig it out from behind a LOT of snow I just had it towed. I did add a good lubricant to the rear key hole for a couple of days before, just to make sure the new key would actually unlock the car so that I could take the EB off and put it in neutral. Unlocked without any problem. Flat bed tow was $45 (lift would have worked but driver was ok with loading it up anyway). MB Coding was $42 plus tax (a real surprise - I was thinking closer to $100 based on past MB experience) and all things being equal it seemed to take less than 30 minutes - or the time it took to have my free coffee and a couple of fresh cookies in the waiting room. I had the new fob 'added' to the car and had to specify I did not want the old key 'deleted' - just in case the cat cracks and shows me where he stashed it.

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Does anyone know if you can get the key cut without bothering with the fob?Well, I guess Doc P does, so I'll PM him.

Edited by ragnarawk

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Mercedes can order the key pre-cut using the VIN and proof of ownership, or the key blank is available aftermarket and many better locksmiths can copy the cut from an existing key.

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Thanks, Alex. Would it be cheaper and more expedient to get Mercedes to order it, or get a locksmith to cut it? I'm thinking they're probably equivalent ...

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So what's the good word on reprogramming a used key fob to another car? I have a spare key from my scrapped car that now has a third blade installed in it that is suited to Snowball...

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Locksmith would be cheaper and faster. Only concern is that you need a key to copy, and they may not have the blank, call first. Also many blanks have a regular head on them, and require some work with a grinder to fit the fob. See here for more info. I would imagine there is available the true blank that fits the fob, but I'll leave the searching for you.

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I was able to get a key cut today. I called around a few places in Guelph, and I probably could have gotten the blank at two of them. The one guy didn't have his stock list handy, so I called another place that ended up having it (and I subsequently went there - G & A Locksmiths, if anyone's interested and the other potential one was Keyworx). The blank they had on hand was an Ilco MB 39, and cost $4.12 all in (but really only $4.10, since I didn't have any pennies :)).

I should note that a key without a fob/transmitter won't immobilize the engine, of course. This is a problem if you unlock the car without the transmitter (i.e., through the hatch). The engine immobilizer apparently doesn't respect such an entry, so the engine is immobilized even though you've unlocked the car.

EDIT: Just read this article and am thinking the lock button might solve this problem. Will confirm once I get home, unless someone knows definitively that this theory will prove true or false.

Edited by ragnarawk

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There is absolutely no way to de-immobilize the car without the fob, or an MB computer. It would kind of defeat the purpose of an immobilizer if you could, after all.A fobless key is an useful item to have hidden outside the car, just in case you manage to lock your keys inside, but it will NOT in any way allow you to start the car. How could you lock the keys inside?Open the hatch, put down the keys as you arrange the groceries, close the hatch and scream *^&%$#$^* a millisecond later! I've never done it, but it sure would be easy to. I've always hated the fact that opening the hatch doesn't unlock the doors.

Edited by Alex

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I understand that logic - and don't get me wrong, I'm not holding out hope that I can make the fobless key work - but looking at the different locking tricks on Evilution makes me think there may be some hack around it.

The prime scenario is having a dead battery in the fob. Notwithstanding starting the car, without the fob I doubt most people wouldn't be able to lock their car. It's quite a process (detailed here, among other neat locking things), and I suspect there's some similar hack around the immobilizer.

Thinking about it all, though - it would look quite a sight. Unlocking through the hatch, going around into the car and then doing whatever needs to be done just to get the engine to start.

(My car's doors open when I unlock the hatch, by the way - is my system weird or is yours?)

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If there was a way around it, it would be all over the web in a flash, and no-ones smart would be safe. I really don't think there is, and if there is, it's a major mistake by MB and should be rectified pronto. An immobilizer should be just that, the car is impossible to start without the fob. This is a feature I want, not something I want to know how to bypass. I had a secret hidden button and timer on my old truck, that would stall the engine 15 seconds after the clutch was engaged if the button hadn't been pressed. I never did find my truck in the middle of the road a block away, but I felt better knowing it was there.Interesting that your doors unlock with the hatch. I don't like it that mine don't, it is just begging for a lapse in concentration.

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I find this thread very interesting. My question is: do you loose the programming of the fob when you replace the battery?

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On 2013-03-23 at 8:39 PM, Mike T said:

So what's the good word on reprogramming a used key fob to another car? I have a spare key from my scrapped car that now has a third blade installed in it that is suited to Snowball...

 

Did you figure out if it's working with other car's keys?

I also have the key cut already, and the dealership refuses to do it today. I had the car in for this in the morning.

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The third key was coded to my car by the Victoria dealer.  This was after a SAM change.  Adding a key if one or two still work on the existing SAM is a lot more complicated.

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Mercedes Trois-Rivières refused what so ever to program the 2 old keys from another car to mine. They were saying it can't be done.

So Victoria did it?

Really?

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