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stickman007

Thought I'll Share My Egr Delete Info

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This past weekend I've decided to remove my EGR valve completely since I'm running a EGR emulator that I got from Pinhead. As suggested by Bilgladstone, I went to my local CanTire and got a 1-3/4 ID resonator, 18" length, Canadian Tire part #548651. I also found an online source on how to build a tool that can make a bead on the pipe so that the hose won't pop off. Total cost for the mod:EGR Emulator $100Resonator pipe $10Pipe Clamp $5Extra hose clamp $2Scrap metal to cover exhaust pipe $0Total: $117Beading Tool:Old Vice clamp $0Washer $0.80Word of advice - there's very little hose (the elbow that's connected to the bottom of the EGR valve) to fit the resonator pipe, be careful, measure 3x before cutting!post-11642-1354069147_thumb.jpgpost-11642-1354069170_thumb.jpgGood luck,Izzy

Edited by stickman007
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Great Job izzy,Can you post the link on how to make the beading tool?And more pictures when you get it installed please.Canman

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Very clever D-I-Y bead tool. Nicely done, Izzy!Bil :sun:

Edited by bilgladstone

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CANMAN:

Here's the site where I "stole" the beading tool idea from, I decided to mod it by using a washer instead of building up a weld on the lower jaw. I think it made my bead a little more consistent http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/tech-tips/...ead-roller.html

post-11642-1354128024_thumb.jpg

My car seems to have a bit more power at start up, looking at my valve, I think its clogged open or something its definitely running better. It was a pain in the butt loosing one of the bolts going into EGR from the exhaust, (I actually had to drill it cause I stripped the head). When I have more time, I wonder if I can weld a port in on that pipe and use it for a boost gauge?

Bilgladstone:

Thanks for pioneering something like this! I would've never attempted something like this without seeing other people try it first. I realized that I ran out of zip ties 1/2 through, so I opted to use velcro wire ties as a temporary for now.

Another thing that I've noticed, (I think there was a thread about it somewhere that I can't find), there's quite a bit of oil in the intake system. Can I just put a filter vent on the PCV line and then plug the intake port? Oil catch can? Sorry if this has already been discussed, (please point me in the right direction!)

Izzy

Edited by stickman007

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Regarding CCV oil: I have been up one side and down the other for years of experimenting and buying bits and pieces to solve this problem. I'm into this re-design challenge for a few hundred bucks and there is no simple solution. If you put a filter on the line and vent to atmosphere, the filter will choke almost immediately and cause problems.

Tolsen claims success, but he doesn't get winter conditions like we do here. His sweet separator and reclaim line would freeze solid and fail in Canada. I don't know of anyone here who has come up with an answer.

My neighbour asked me the other day, what's with the oil spots in my parking space? He said he's had a number of Benzes and Mercedes-Benz engines are usually so well-engineered that they don't leak oil like mine. Well mine isn't leaking either; I just gave up on the project and simply vent the CCV to atmosphere down by the exhaust tip with a half-inch hose because the design is so crap.

B :sun:

P.S. all credit for pioneering the EGR delete rightly goes to Francesco (mechanical) and Pinhead (electrical)!

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P.S. all credit for pioneering the EGR delete rightly goes to Francesco (mechanical) and Pinhead (electrical)!

Sorry, my mistake! Thanks Francesco and Pinhead!

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I disclaim all responsibility! :DActually, I got my idea from members both here and at the Club smart Quebec forum. I honestly don't remember who posted the pipe sizes. OTOH, the "bead roller" is *exactly* what I wanted, but failed to source! Thanks!

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Pretty sure you can buy a ScanGauge cheaper than a Boost Gauge and the Scan Gauge has a Boost reading....along with a bunch of others. Awesome bead tool, I could have used that about a hundred times over the last 10 years. Also if you want to clean up the wiring even more you can undo the wrapping abit more and hide the Emulator pretty good, you can't see mine at all. Makes it look like the car never had an EGR to begin with.

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So just so I get this straight. The length of 18" gets rid ofthe mixing housing?? And if it was possible could you remove the rubber part of the piping and fab up a solid piece?? And supply couplers and call it a day? I have had no problems with my egr but I do want to give it the boot with the emulator of course.

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Yes, pipe takes the place of the mix housing. 18 inches is the raw length of the pipe that comes off the shelf from Canadian Tire - post #1 in this thread shows the approximate cut length.

Early on, Francesco had a number of stainless steel pipes with silicone couplers made up just as you have in mind, but has no more left now. I had an idea to build some up from silicone hose components too. That would work and look pretty, and have the advantage that you would remove all the hoses and EGR assembly intact so you could restore it to stock quickly and easily. But I'm on to other things for now.

Bil :sun:

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I've thought about casting a negative from my pipe and making a blank on which to lay up 100% silicone hoses, but the work involved for the few I could distribute makes it seem like a poor use of my time.

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That's the main reason why stuff made specifically and only for the smart car can seem outrageously expensive. Minuscule demand and huge per-unit cost (zero economy-of-scale) equals high prices.B :sun:

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I've thought about casting a negative from my pipe and making a blank on which to lay up 100% silicone hoses, but the work involved for the few I could distribute makes it seem like a poor use of my time.

So were you the one taking name to make a minimum stainless pipe a while back?? I have ever acessto silicone pipes and angles at work I could use. But I am determined to get rid of that extra mixing housing crap

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I've thought about casting a negative from my pipe and making a blank on which to lay up 100% silicone hoses, but the work involved for the few I could distribute makes it seem like a poor use of my time.

Well, you could put me in line for one if you ever decide to waste some time. ;)

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I just did this same thing a few weeks ago, I bought a pipe from a local autoparts supplier (Benson auto parts). Its listed as 1-3/4 ID to OD pipe part # 41931 for $4.85. Its about 18" long and I cut basically 6" off the larger end and it fit perfectly snug into the two different hoses. Thanks for the info, now my car runs better, no more leaks at the bottom of the EGR from a bad fit.

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Are you using the flared piece of the pipe? Or the actual middle section of the pipe??

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CT P/N 548651 is no longer in their system, they can only find the vehicle application this would have come out off.

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On the picture it looked like one end was smaller diameter than the other end.

Right in the middle of the pipe, it looked as if it was flaring up to a larger size.

So both ends are of 1-3/4" ID?

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The top end that connects to the upper pipe is flared. The bottom end is the 1 3/4

Thanks to Stickman007, I have my pipe made and ready to install.

The upper Rubber hose was worn right through with a 3/4" long hole and I cleaned it up and used "Wrap-It" made by VersaChem also called "Spider Patch".

It is a Self fusing Repair Tape made of silicon. From Canadian Tire, Manufacturer P/N is 90320.

I used the whole roll :icon_smile: Cost was under $8.00 for 10 Ft.

The lower Rubber hose, I cut the metal part without damaging the hose and the whole rubber hose is intact.

I also removed the intercooler and at 107,000 km my intercooler was not damaged but I did trim the plastic shroud as per Evilution's site.

I'm on my way to finally understand what you guys are talking about.

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If you remove the EGR Valve, take out the EGR Cooler tube out and block it at the Manifold, if you don't, it may or may not leak but it will eventually leak, mine leaked at start up and never did before, the bolts were just a tinny bit loose but without the EGR valve, the free weight of the tube was enough to crack it open and leak, I had to disassemble the car once more right after my road test, save yourself having to redo the work, get rid of it while you're in there.

It only takes an extra hour.

Use Studs instead of bolts, put red Loctite on them and use Copper nuts if you can find them as per Sitckman007 recommendation and if you can afford Loctite 620, use it on all block plate and gasket surfaces and you won't have to ever worry about the EGR block plate coming lose.

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Hi guys, if I correct understand, you are also talking about the metal pipe that connect exhoust with EGR. I am afraid that with vibration, without the EGR support, it will crack, so I was thinking to remove it and cap directly the port on exhoust. what about the water coolant pipes? is it correct bypass the gas tube connect them together or in some way the coolant circuit will not work correctly after?

thanks

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