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Mike T

A Generous Gift From Gent

85 posts in this topic

I have not found a SS welder locally (yet) who could do this job. But I will eventually. Any ideas out there? There is some open can surgery required, to reweld some baffles that are buzzing.

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I have a long flex section in my current exhaust. The spring-mount was from one of the earlier kits with no flex, much like the Brabus that Mike has from Gent.:sun:

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Incidentally, the unit (still full of Gent's soot) weighs in at 8 kg.

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I like that idea Bil, My setup used "stainless nylock nuts" instead and a flex section in there too.But is yours like that just becuase there's no flex pipe installed? I wonder how all my Systems are doing (on these 2 bolts stayng tight I mean)

In order for a Nylock nut to be effective there must be threads exposed beyond the nut. Most don't fare well in high heat applications. Edited by Z1K

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In order for a Nylock nut to be effective there must be threads exposed beyond the nut.

Why is that? :scratch:

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So Mike, you're thinking to cut the can open, reweld the baffles and maybe blow out the soot somewhat and zip it back up?B :sun:

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Yeah I think that's what is needed. I will do some more probing in the garage first.

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Why is that? :scratch:

The first thread or 2 on your average bolt are on a taper. For the nylock to have full thread engagement the nylon ring has to be beyond that. Nylocks are usually rated up to about 250 degrees. The nylon ring will either melt or harden and crack in high heat applications.

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Z!K ,I took mine off a couple months later an d the nylocks looked good still.Your comment makes total sence to me though.Maybe those nuts with a triangle shaped internal thread would be best?And Mike, Maybe you can cut open the can and fix it properly.Also I wonder if you can have a flex added at the same time.Steve

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Z!K ,I took mine off a couple months later an d the nylocks looked good still.Your comment makes total sence to me though.Maybe those nuts with a triangle shaped internal thread would be best?

A flex type lock nut should serve the purpose. All metal so no worries about heat. You'd want to have a couple threads exposed on those as well.

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To mikeT I hate you! That is all :PPs if u want to weld the stainless inquire about tig welding. And if all else fails arch welding. A good machine shop should have either

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Yeah I will have to look into this after January begins. I hope I don't have to do a catalyst-ectomy on it but I will if there is no alternative.I believe the metallic rattle is on the end of the unit that has the cat in it (if it's arranged internally like the OE exhaust is). But it could just be a loose baffle and the cat may be OK. It does not sound like a bunch of loose bits, there is just a metallic buzz when I slap the canister. So I am hopeful that the cat is intact. Thanks to tolsen for the cutaway photos of the OE cdi exhaust, I think I know what's in there now.The exhaust hanger and rubber vibration damper are both still available for this unit in Europe, for about $150 - 200 all in, depending upon the source.

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Do u westerners have emission testing?? If all else fails, get them to gut it open and take the cat out. Weldthe loose baffle and tig it back together. That what us manitobians do ;)

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No testing whatsoever outside of Vancouver, where they only do an emissions test. I still would prefer to have a cat.

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I have got a couple of new parts for this exhaust and I thought I would share the photos here.Firstly, the original strap that held the exhaust in place was a defective design, that led to serial cracking in the location shown in the photo. Not only is the holding strap cracked, one of the oblong holes that attaches the mount to the transaxle is also split.BRABUS redesigned the mount after the original design was shown to be defective, relocating the open part of the clamp to the top of the exhaust can rather than at the bottom. According to our friends on the European smart forums, this revised strap is trouble-free.The threaded rod on the LH side of the can is for the counterweight, which I got today out of Germany. It was DAMNED expensive, at close to 80 Euros. It's got a steel outer perimeter bonded by soft rubber to a steel core that has two pegs to locate it at the correct orientation on the exhaust canister/rod. It weighs exactly 358 grams and is designed to resonate in such a way as to offset the vibrations that are transmitted through the solid mount to the exhaust manifold and the muffler mount.Next on my list of things to do is to find a shop to cut open the can and reweld the baffles that have broken loose inside. Because this exhaust was operated with a broken mount for a short time, and a missing damper, I suspect the internal damage to the baffles should not only be repairable but also the repair should be quite long-lasting.One of these BRABUS exhausts, new-in-box, was sold on eBay Monday for 500 Euros, an early model with slanted exhaust tips. A good deal for someone. I was half-tempted but frankly didn't have the cash on hand so I let it go.

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Is it that difficult to find a welding shop that can do the work for you? I was kind of hoping/expecting to see pictures of it on your car by now!Bil :sun:

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I was waiting for the bracket and vibration damper to arrive before committing to welding repairs. Without these parts, the exhaust would have rattled itself apart again in short order.I'll probably search for a suitable shop in June. Maybe I will have the canister repaired by the end of June, and then I would want to buy the perforated BRABUS valence for this exhaust from Eddy. Got to buy new bolts for the manifold. One step at a time, there is no rush, I am keeping the car for life, you know!

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Glad to read that my old smart's organ donation is going well.;)

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Yes, very slowly but it was a great gift!

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The canister is now at Duncan Iron Works, and it will be getting some surgery soon.

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Will do! I have to get something from Eddy too, to complement it.The plastic BRABUS valence is for sale, if anyone is interested (which will partly offset the cost of the stainless one I want).

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Selling my gift. Tsk. <_<

Will do! I have to get something from Eddy too, to complement it.The plastic BRABUS valence is for sale, if anyone is interested (which will partly offset the cost of the stainless one I want).

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Well I may be trading it for a SS one that another member here has. No money will change hands if it pans out as expected!

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I think the swap is a go! Good for the both of us!....err, nope, the swap offer was retracted!I will be keeping this plastic valence as a spare. You can never have too many spare parts.

Edited by Mike T
update

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