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ragnarawk

Intercooler Fan Wiring

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I have an aftermarket intercooler fan that has a different connector than MB.I have disassembled the MB fan to get the plug off, but connecting it to the aftermarket fan is confusing me right now. I don't know what wire is positive/negative/ground going to the fan (i.e. the smart wires). There are two wires - one brown and one yellow.Does anyone know the polarity of these two wires?Will post pics (if I'm unclear) later.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I don't know which goes where, but the fan have to pull the air.

Edited by David_18

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Brown is the ground (negative). Bil :sun:

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I have an aftermarket intercooler fan that has a different connector than MB.I have disassembled the MB fan to get the plug off, but connecting it to the aftermarket fan is confusing me right now. I don't know what wire is positive/negative/ground going to the fan (i.e. the smart wires). There are two wires - one brown and one yellow.Does anyone know the polarity of these two wires?Will post pics (if I'm unclear) later.

Please give us details on what you've bought, cost and how it fits.I've had mine replaced under warranty but i heard it making noise the other day and won't buy one from MB if it fails.ThanksAl

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Many after-market fans are reversible. Simply test it with bare wires before you fit the plug permanently, to be sure the new fan is pulling, not pushing. And +1 on give us details please!B :sun:

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What did it cost? What is the air volume rate provided by the replacement fan? The dealer charges $140 for the IC fan assembly.

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Thanks for the information.

Most of the other information can be found here (make, process, etc.). I bought this from Glenn (smart142) for $80 in August, but have only had time/opportunity to fit it now.

I don't know the CFM off-hand, but it may be included in the packaging. Google might be able to help.

Looking closer at mzeeb's pictures, it appears he modified the wiring to accommodate the Spal fan. This wasn't in the DIY instructions. I'll add details as I can.

I should also note that removing the fan provides sufficient access to the EGR bolts. This is specifically relevant if you're attempting the in situ cleaning of the EGR valve. I would have liked to do that, but I didn't have the special tool. ;) (Should've planned ahead more).

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Posted (edited) · Report post

You don't really need the special tool, when I had my EGR valve in place I was able to pull the cylinder out without any special tools ( first time it popped out by accident when I was trying to get the gunk out with a screwdriver, I think I was pushing on the center of the valve ( if you have had it apart even out of the car you would know what I mean) and it just came out. I found if I used vise grips with the jaws taped to avoid scratching things I could clamp on gently twist the cylinder back and forth to loosen it and it would just pull out. You do need to mark the position before you pull it out though.As for your original question I pulled the connector off the original fan and used it on my replacement, I used bils method and tested the fan to see which way was blowing the correct way and hooked it up that way, and yes the brown wire is negative. Also as he said my fan was reversible so no harm done if you hook it up backwards, it just won't help cool the air like it is supposed to.

Edited by scwmcan

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You don't really need the special tool, when I had my EGR valve in place I was able to pull the cylinder out without any special tools ( first time it popped out by accident when I was trying to get the gunk out with a screwdriver, I think I was pushing on the center of the valve ( if you have had it apart even out of the car you would know what I mean) and it just came out. I found if I used vise grips with the jaws taped to avoid scratching things I could clamp on gently twist the cylinder back and forth to loosen it and it would just pull out. You do need to mark the position before you pull it out though.

Yeah, I was wondering how you got it out at the moment I had access to it. I wasn't daring enough to monkey around that much, but I may try again. Did you lube it up at all before twisting it?

As for your original question I pulled the connector off the original fan and used it on my replacement, I used bils method and tested the fan to see which way was blowing the correct way and hooked it up that way, and yes the brown wire is negative. Also as he said my fan was reversible so no harm done if you hook it up backwards, it just won't help cool the air like it is supposed to.

How did you connect the original connector to the aftermarket fan? Solder or crimping? I've got it out and cleaned off, I just need to connect it at this point. The Spal fan indicates polarity, so I don't think I'll need to test it. I just didn't know what the smart wiring colours indicated.Thanks for your help, everyone.

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I didn't set out to lube it up the first time but I was using cleaner so I am sure it helped loosen things up. As I recall I was pretty fed up as I was getting tired of cleaning it, and I think it was when the valve actually wound up greeting stuck with the gunk buildup, at first I thought I had broken the EGR and that I was going to have to get a new one, but obviously it worked out. Just be careful, spray some perpetrating oil if you feel like it, and it should come out for you. I soldered the connector to my replacement fan, do you know that when you hook you new fan up with the indicated polarity if it will be blowing the correct direction? If not test it first, but otherwise go for it.

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I should also note that removing the fan provides sufficient access to the EGR bolts. This is specifically relevant if you're attempting the in situ cleaning of the EGR valve. I would have liked to do that, but I didn't have the special tool. ;) (Should've planned ahead more).

ragnarawk,Having just cleaned my EGR valve I strongly discourage you from cleaning it in place.You will not get very much of the crud out and could possibly loosen a chunk of crud which may get sucked into the engine and cause valve damage.It is not that hard to remove the valve entirely for cleaning, getting the intercooler fan off is one of the more difficult steps.I made a tool similar to Tolsens for about $20 in parts in Princess Auto.I was planning to post a thread on it, but haven't had the time.I can do it tomorrow if you are interested.Feel free to p.m. If you have any questions.Canman

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Canman,He is talking about removing the valve portion with the housing left in place ( at least that is what I having been assuming). Also as long as you disconnect the lower hose any crud that gets loosened will fall out of the housing. I di mine several times and never removed the housing, it is easy to get the valve completely clean when you remove it from the housing, even if you leave the housing attached to the car.

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It is essential to disconnect the lower hose from the intercooler, and spray and wipe it out. There is a real possibility of chunks falling down that hose during a clean-in-place.

As long as you properly clean the lower hose, a clean-in-place is very effective, and a lot less work than a complete removal. Also suction and blow out the bore that the cartridge fits into.

The removal tool is not essential, a good soak and sharp visegrips should work in most cases. The lip you would mark up with visegrips isn't important, just clean up the worst of the indents with a file and you're good to go, no sealing happens there.

The clean-in-place wiki, for reference.

Edited by Alex

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Then get Bil's blanking plug or fit one you have made yourself. No more need to clean out EGR valve when a blanking plugs is fitted.As for charge cooler fan, the OEM fans tend to become very rattly after a while. Mine was really bad. The fix is easy. Remove charge cooler fan assembly. Remove fan from shaft. Give it a good clean. Wet shaft in silicon oil. Stick fan onto shaft with epoxy adhesive. Fan has to be supported to ensure it is square on shaft until epoxy has set.I did this repair more than 4 years ago and have accumulated nearly 80,000 km since then. Fan works fine and there is still no rattle.

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When mine failed I tried taking the fan off the shaft, didn't come off, don't know if it rusted I place or not, but it didn't even move, even after liberal doses of penetrating oil, in the end after I replaced the fan and took it apart ( the fan test wound up breaking), the motor winding had broken and was loose anyway so I needed to replace the whole thing anyway. I do think that you are correct about lubricating the fan shaft and if I had been able to I would have tried that first.

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Reason for wetting fan motor shaft in silicon oil before adding epoxy glue is to provide slip so fan can be removed later should there be a need to get to motor.

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I am sure if I had the car from new, and had had it before the fan went that I might have been able to get the fan off, but I only got the car three years ago, and the damage had already been done. I am thinking a good few days thi year will be spent taking off the panels, cleaning/ touching up the tridon, and getting things the way they should be, we'll see if I can get my act together and actually do it this year:). I do want my little car to last, and seem to have convinced my partner that it is okay for me to keep it so I'll have to get into it sooner or later, and sooner would be better.

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I installed the fan on Saturday, and it appears to work.The box says the model I had (6.5") is supposed to move air at 330 CFM.

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hiMy ic fan is also gone. I bought a new one and now am looking for references to change it. Is there a wiki or something similar to help me along with this task. As always any help and or suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

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Here you go.

Canman

http://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php?id=656

Unplug the intercooler fan and unclip the the wiring loom section that attaches to the fan.

Using a pair of pliers pinch together the two tabs in the top middle of the cooling fan assembly

to pull it away from the intercooler. Rock the entire fan assembly forward and away from the

top of the intercooler and the bottom fan clips will unclip - but be gentle with it.

Edit, sorry about posting the same picture 3 times, it doesn't show the attachment like the wiki editor does, doesn't even show them when editing to delete the extras.

post-9481-1373489617_thumb.jpg

post-9481-1373489618_thumb.jpg

post-9481-1373489637_thumb.jpg

Edited by CANMAN

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thank you for the reply. Do you know if I have to remove the EGR unit and hoses?

No, you can wiggle it past the hose.All you need is a pair of sidecutters to cut the strap ties, and a pair of needle nose pliers to pitch the tabs, and a supply of new strap ties.Be careful of the ground stud with half a dozen wires on it at the top of the fan behind the wire bundle.The directions from Evilution are for the intercooler removal, but it's the only source of instruction for the fan removal.Canman

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