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Looking through my records, my car's had 0W40, 5W40, 5W30... I read about all the different grades but still don't get it.My car's got relatively high mileage and I suspect lossy compression; starts bad or not at all in cold weather (sounds like there's blow-by). What oil should I be using? Thinner so it can coat easily, or thicker so it can clog the gaps?Thanks!-Iain

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Cold season starting, winter weight 0w; warm season, summer weight 5WHot climate with older engine 5W40; temperate climate with older engine 5W30HTH,Bil :sun:IMHO/AFAIK/YMMV ;)

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So wouldn't I want 0W for the first part since my engine has trouble starting in the cold?-Iain

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I used 5w40 in mine all year long. This summer why not try Mobil 1 5w50? See if it helps blowby. 0w30 in my opinion is too thin for these engines. Especially with the sump being so small. Debbie

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If you can find a 0W30 oil that meets either MB-Approval 229.3 or MB-Approval 229.5, you should be fine. I personally would just stick with the 0W40, I drive my cdi fairly hard on occasion and have had no issue with the Mobil1.

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So wouldn't I want 0W for the first part since my engine has trouble starting in the cold?

-Iain

Other way around, Iain. You want 0Wx for easier winter starting.

When you say your engine is a bit "lossy", do you mean you are experiencing reduced compression? Have you tested this? It is typical for long-service engines to have a bit of blow-by.

At cold start, the glow plugs initially provide the heat for fuel detonation, then cylinder compression takes over. As you know, the diesel engine depends upon the heat generated by compression to maintain fuel detonation, and it will run poorly if compression leaks due to ring or valve seal blow-by.

IMHO, it is more important in cold weather to lubricate the moving parts (especially in a turbo engine) quickly and completely. That's why I say 0W40 for winter, even though a heavier oil might reduce blow-by "gaps". The engine may stumble and maybe use a bit more oil in the winter, but the benefits of proper lubrication outweigh the benefits of reducing blow-by.

OTOH, 5W30 (or 5W40 if you go south again) will help reduce blow-by in summer and help your car run smoother and quieter.

But as important - maybe even more important, is that you change the oil at short intervals, no matter what oil you use, and no matter what the season/climate. 5,000km is an easy number to remember, and is the OCI many of us think is correct for our little OM660.

Others may have different ideas. Hey, check with pops. He runs commercial diesels, right?

B :sun:

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When I had my first A and B service done, it was 0w30 Mobil 1. Then at the second A service it changed to 0w40. I asked why and the response was due to our harsher climate it would protect better all the time. Because I had the webasto, I ran 5w40 year round. Debbie

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Debbie, your signature says you're over 300 000 km, which is about where I am - what oil are you using now?-Iain

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I sold the car to Designer Dave back in October. It had 342,000 on it then. I was running Amsoil 5w40 cj4 diesel rated oil. Same stuff my 2008 ram cummins takes. 10,000 km oci and oil samples every change. Running WVO two tank system as well. No problems. I think Dave still drives it occasionally.Debbie

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The thicker the oil the better for old diesels, meaning a 15w40 or 20w50, or alternatively use a treatment like Lucas oil additive to thicken it up. It really really makes a difference on worn out engines have lots of experience with super high kms diesels running it (gas engines too). It also helps prolong lifter life it seems/quiets start ups. I stay far away from thin oils like 0w30 they burn way too easily. All synthetics flow well at cold temps, the differences are small (say -30 for a thick oil vs -50 for a 0 weight). I think Amsoil offers the correct rating through out their product range, it is not easy finding a thicker oil with current MB standards. I find our Mercedes R class CDI has siginificant more engine noise (ticking) on 5w30 vs 5w40 (mb229.51) and it is hard to find 5w40 with that spec in Ottawa. I run the smart with 5w40 exclusively for now, I will be out soon though and searching for a heavier option if possible as I only summer drive it. But yes a thick oil really can make a big difference on worn out engines to keep it cleaner.I have also had awesome results with Seafoam oil treatment, smells like pure brake cleaner in a can that you pour into the crankcase and drive, really really helped the fuel economy of our R class immediate results (150k kms and dealer serviced before me). Whatever it does it helps restore the engine, possible cleaning up sludged cylinder walls or ???)

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The thicker the oil the better for old diesels, meaning a 15w40 or 20w50, or alternatively use a treatment like Lucas oil additive to thicken it up. It really really makes a difference on worn out engines have lots of experience with super high kms diesels running it (gas engines too). It also helps prolong lifter life it seems/quiets start ups. I stay far away from thin oils like 0w30 they burn way too easily. All synthetics flow well at cold temps, the differences are small (say -30 for a thick oil vs -50 for a 0 weight). I think Amsoil offers the correct rating through out their product range, it is not easy finding a thicker oil with current MB standards. I find our Mercedes R class CDI has siginificant more engine noise (ticking) on 5w30 vs 5w40 (mb229.51) and it is hard to find 5w40 with that spec in Ottawa. I run the smart with 5w40 exclusively for now, I will be out soon though and searching for a heavier option if possible as I only summer drive it. But yes a thick oil really can make a big difference on worn out engines to keep it cleaner.I have also had awesome results with Seafoam oil treatment, smells like pure brake cleaner in a can that you pour into the crankcase and drive, really really helped the fuel economy of our R class immediate results (150k kms and dealer serviced before me). Whatever it does it helps restore the engine, possible cleaning up sludged cylinder walls or ???)

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The thicker the oil the better for old diesels, meaning a 15w40 or 20w50, or alternatively use a treatment like Lucas oil additive to thicken it up. It really really makes a difference on worn out engines have lots of experience with super high kms diesels running it (gas engines too). It also helps prolong lifter life it seems/quiets start ups. I stay far away from thin oils like 0w30 they burn way too easily. All synthetics flow well at cold temps, the differences are small (say -30 for a thick oil vs -50 for a 0 weight). I think Amsoil offers the correct rating through out their product range, it is not easy finding a thicker oil with current MB standards. I find our Mercedes R class CDI has siginificant more engine noise (ticking) on 5w30 vs 5w40 (mb229.51) and it is hard to find 5w40 with that spec in Ottawa. I run the smart with 5w40 exclusively for now, I will be out soon though and searching for a heavier option if possible as I only summer drive it. But yes a thick oil really can make a big difference on worn out engines to keep it cleaner.I have also had awesome results with Seafoam oil treatment, smells like pure brake cleaner in a can that you pour into the crankcase and drive, really really helped the fuel economy of our R class immediate results (150k kms and dealer serviced before me). Whatever it does it helps restore the engine, possible cleaning up sludged cylinder walls or ???)

My smart always gets 5W40 as well. I really like Motul products, and run Motul 5W40 (8100 X-Cess) that I buy by the case from Amazon.com. It is a true, full synthetic, most are not anymore. Just have it shipped to Ogdensburg and go down and pick it up.http://www.amazon.com/Motul-007250-4PK-X-c...motul+5w40+8100 Edited by MightyMouseTech

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what do you guys think of 10w30 for the om660?

Not a good idea. These engines need good clean synthetic oil. Most use 5w40 Mobil 1 or equivalent. Do not use generic Dino oil. YMMV Debbie

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^^ What Debbie said, plus the oil channels in the turbo etc are so blinkin' tiny is this car that I'd be afraid 10W is just too heavy for proper lubrication at all but very hot weather - and even then, not until the engine reaches full operating temperature.IMHO/AFAIK/YMMV ;)Bil :sun:

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Not a good idea. These engines need good clean synthetic oil. Most use 5w40 Mobil 1 or equivalent. Do not use generic Dino oil. YMMV Debbie

OK How about full synthetic 10w30, I do alot of highway driving.

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30W is a bit light for high temperature operation IMO. Why not just use a 40W?

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I think there is a clear consensus versus your proposition, Jayeson. Why do you want to use an inappropriate oil in your car? Did somebody offer you a free case or something?

B :sun:

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For you guys in Ottawa, Autolectra on Pare just off Decarie in Montreal has Pentosin 5W-40 in 5 liter jugs at under 40+taxes. Meets Merc 229.51

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I think there is a clear consensus versus your proposition, Jayeson. Why do you want to use an inappropriate oil in your car? Did somebody offer you a free case or something?

B :sun:

No I was just asking to see what you guys will think. I ask because I can get free full synth 10w30 from work. But I guess Ill just keep using royal purple 10w40.

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I think there is a clear consensus versus your proposition, Jayeson. Why do you want to use an inappropriate oil in your car? Did somebody offer you a free case or something?

B :sun:

No I was just asking to see what you guys will think. I ask because I can get free full synth 10w30 from work. But I guess Ill just keep using royal purple 10w40.

You Beast.

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FYI Monarch Oil sells Mobil 1 0W30 ESP (meet MB spec 229.52) for $108 for a case of 12 X 1L bottles. That's cheaper than the dealer and CT. CT sells it for about $16/L last I was in there.

The other variant of Mobil 1 0w30 is not the same - I find it foams a lot.

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