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ian122778

Siezed Glow Plug, Going To Try Something, Looking For Input

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So I have a seized glow plug in my little smart, I need an e-test this year, but the siezed plug is bad and has tripped my check engine light. I am thinking i will put a good glow plug into some kind of container, leave it in there and see if it will turn my engine light off for long enough to do my etest, after the test I can unplug it again and live with the CEL.Do you think this would work? Do you think the plug will recieve its ground from the plug or the chassis? Is there any other way to do this, maybe with a resistor or something? My e-test doesnt need to be done until december, but I figure the paper lasts for a year....

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The glowplug would get red hot of course, and the lead to the plug is very short and near plastic fuel lines.So this is not a good idea.You have all summer why not fix the seized plug?Where are you located? Perhaps a club member can recommend a shop in your area.Start now by spraying a good quality penetrating oil around the plug, repeat every week.After a few weeks remove the engine hatch and glowplug lead, put a socket on the glowplug, leave the hatch off and go for a good drive reving to 3000 rpm, get the engine nice and hot.Immediately when you get home put a torque wrench on the socket and try removing it.Do not exceed 35 foot lbs of torque.If you get it to turn, reverse direction and work it back and forth like using a tap until you get it out.Make sure you clean the bore with a wire brush used for cleaning rifles or shotguns, or Tolsens reamer device and blow out the chunks with compressed air.Do not put any lubricant on the new plug unless the plug is supplied with some from mfg.Good luck.Canman

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Yeah, I tried all that, and I had a reputable mechanic take a look. He said it feels like it will snap.

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careful !from tolson....."These glow plugs will snap off if applied torque exceeds 35 Nm"and that is 25.8 ft lb

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I don't understand the connection between E-test and glowplug error... why would they care? Do they fail a car if the check engine light is on? (honest question - I don't know)(I have the same problem FWIW)-Iain

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Glow plugs arnt emmision related. Just a starting aid in cooler weather

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Any check engine light will mean an automatic fail here in BC... They don't know and don't care.

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I believe you can wire two leads to one plug. Something I have not tried but worth while testing out.

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Any check engine light will mean an automatic fail here in BC... They don't know and don't care.

Exactly right. When I took our Altima in for it's AirCare test it displayed a P0 codewhich meant that power had been removed from the ECU, which was probablybecause I'd disconnected the battery as the car sat for a few months...Has to pay for a retest of course, once the CEL went out. I can hardly wait for the end of 2014... :angry:

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Exactly right. When I took our Altima in for it's AirCare test it displayed a P0 codewhich meant that power had been removed from the ECU, which was probablybecause I'd disconnected the battery as the car sat for a few months...Has to pay for a retest of course, once the CEL went out. I can hardly wait for the end of 2014... :angry:

In that case, they probably failed it because the power outage would mean the computer hadn't had time to properly measure the emissions.From what I've heard, the new e-test can't be completed till the car has been run a fairly significant number of miles (100?) after a reset. In regards to the glow plug being an automatic failure; don't know for sure. But I wouldn't be surprised, given the typical government sanctioned testing.Sigh; guess I'll need to get that injector error figured out before November, when the blue smart is due for a test....

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I'd totally argue that, emissions are emissions - show them the code with a Scangauge (or get their equipment to show that it is a benign code!). How stupid.-Iain

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I was just talking to the owner of a shop that does E-tests here in Ottawa, he said one customer failed 3 times and paid $1200 before they got it right; #1 the gas cap was replaced #2 the filler neck replaced #3 the fuel tank replaced. The customer is currently seeking restitution from Ministry for the ridiculousness.

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Iain: You could argue that, but you'd lose. The car doesn't necessarily have to have low emissions, nor will it pass simply by having low emissions, the car has to pass the test. To pass the test the car must not have a CEL, among other requirements. The test will weed out most polluting cars, but that's not the point. The point is to pass the test.And pay the fee.

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Haha, I'm screwed, then! Take out the bulb in the dash? :)Isn't there a $400 cap for what you have to spend to repair the car if it fails?-Iain

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Haha, I'm screwed, then! Take out the bulb in the dash? :)Isn't there a $400 cap for what you have to spend to repair the car if it fails?-Iain

i believe there is no conditional as you technically wont fail. the new etests here (ontario) will kick back a not ready. I am also screwed. I think i am going to enlist the help of a local mechanic, and see if he can test a couple things for me.Here is where I am at, I tried clearing the code and putting the connector on a good glow plug that was not installed in the engine, still tripped my CEL. Then i tried putting a 8awg ground wire on the glow plug to the chassis, still tripped my CEL. I am now wondering if i have a bad plug and either a bad connector wire or controller. I might try what someone here just said, and try connecting two wires to one good glow plug, just to see if I get past this CEL.Does anybody know what the car is looking for? is it voltage or resistance? I figured the single wire would just shoot 12 volts, guess the car is SMARTer than that......At least I have some time to experiment!!!!

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Usually they compare resistance between all the glow plugs, meaning connecting a couple together would not work unless you connect all three to show the same??? You would have to ground the new glow plug to get it to read correctly, perhaps there is a deeper issue here or the obd tool is not reading or resetting the codes correctly (been there!). It should work in theory to hook up a new one with a ground but it has to have a good connection or the resistance will be too high.

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I'd totally argue that, emissions are emissions - show them the code with a Scangauge (or get their equipment to show that it is a benign code!). How stupid.-Iain

It is because the new etest procedure is just reading what the On Board Diagnostics is telling it. This is a lot more accurate and much harder to get a fake test done. There are many readiness codes that the computer stores after performing various self diagnostic tests. There are tests for the O2 sensors, O2 sensor heaters, EGR tests, EVAP system tests, catalytic converter tests, misfire tests etc etc etc etc. The estest is confirming with the ECU that these tests have been completed and passed. If you reset the PCM, these readiness codes are also reset. It usually takes several hundred km over several drive cycles from engine cold to perform all the tests.A bad glow plug will absolutely increase the emissions. Edited by MightyMouseTech

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ok. i think i am going to replace the glow plug controller. I am not getting 12 volts to the line with the bad glow plug when the key is forward. Maybe my bad plug has also managed to ruin my controller?edit: Im not getting 12 volts to one of the good ones either. I guess i should try testing the voltage when the car is colder.

Edited by ian122778

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I believe that others have tried measuring the voltage and that it reads nothing at the plug for the glowplug if it isn't plugged in. I believe there was a post with how to measure the voltages at the contoller so it would probably be a good idea to look for that thread ( may even be in the last page or two of the long glow plug thread in the sticky).Edit: the long thread is in the How to section sticky area

Edited by scwmcan

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I do vaguely remember there is 12V supplied to each glow plug at all times when ignition is on. Monitoring voltage of 12V is supplied via resistors to each glow plug. Monitoring current is therefore quite low.

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A bad glow plug will absolutely increase the emissions.

I'd agree with you only for the first 10 km or until the engine is up to temp.-Iain

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The glowplugs do stay on for a little while, but only seconds, I'd guess maybe 30 seconds at most in serious cold, not 10 km!

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E-Test InfoConditional Pass $450 Cap, you pay $110 for Diagnose, if the repair is going to cost $340 or more before tax then you don't have to do it....if cost less then you do have to do it. You can get 3 conditional passes (6 years worth). A conditional pass is only good for Sticker Renewal (not ownership transfer).If you clear your check engine light before going for your test and your emissions moniters don't run before the test, the result will be "Not Ready" which is also a "Fail". You must wait 24hrs, drive 30km and not clear codes or disconnect the battery before a re-test if you get a "Not Ready". If when you go for a re-test the monitors are still not ready (Same number of monitors or less) you will get a "Readiness Conditional Pass" if you cleared the code a second time you fail(A software update came out yesterday that allows the Test Unit to know how many km have been driven since codes were cleared, or atleast DriveClean says it can). So as a car guy it's my suggestion that if your check engine light is on, clear it before the test and take your chances that when you go for the re-test it won't be back yet...More questions? PM me, I'm happy to educate.

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Got the dreaded AirCare letter today for an insurance renewal in late May.As our CEL has been on since my sonwas rear-ended last year and as I knew itwas glow plug related I decided today was theday. Not the easiest job I've ever done especiallyon the far left cylinder as there's a piece of rubberpartly in the way but all three plugs came out easily.Torqued to 20 Nm, cleared the trouble codes, startedthe car and voila no CEL!!! Will go for the AirCare testtomorrow...(hope no one notices my missing CAT)!

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