Minor Limp Mode

[KurtMan 2]

Today was the first time in 2 months that i drove my smart more than a couple blocks, to my dismay it had much less torque and wouldn't reach 100khm. It was remapped about 6 months ago and i can tell you it feels more like a NON remapped smart (apart from not reaching 100khm). I recently RE/RE my intercooler and EGR, changed the earth grounds and added an EGR blocking plate. I drove it right after reassembly and it felt more normal, i didn't "give it the beans" or drive up to highway speed though. All the hoses and pipes seem to be tight since i can't hear any high pressure air leaking or see oil dripping. A few weeks ago before i did any of the work my wife took it for a drive and it coded P0238 (overboost cicuit A) i cleared the code and sprayed penetrating oil in and around the wastegate several times. Can it be the EGR plate? Can it be the the remap since i had the battery disconnected for abot 30 mins when i changed the earth grounds?

Edited April 22, 2013 by KurtMan

[MightyMouseTech 0]

If it is not being driven much, could just be seized brakes, parking brake cable or alternator.

[KurtMan 2]

If it was the alternator i should have had the battery warning since the drive was 20-30 mins right? And i would have smelled the the brakes i would think. Do you suggest i just keep driving it and see if it improves?

[Francesco 71]

Stuck waste gate, partially-plugged fuel filter, clogged EGR (all three will eventually throw a code). Best would be to find someone local with a Star machine and run its battery of diagnostics while driving under load.

[KurtMan 2]

EGR is clean, the stuck wastegate would cause this?

Edited April 22, 2013 by KurtMan

[Francesco 71]

It could, if it's stuck open, no boost (a ScanGauge would be handy here), if sticky to open, may be causing an overboost condition, causing the EDG to limit revs and fuel (true limp-home mode). The latter will eventually invoke a CEL/DTC, the former likely won't.

[CANMAN 23]

i cleared the code and sprayed penetrating oil in and around the wastegate several times. Can it be the EGR plate? Can it be the the remap since i had the battery disconnected for abot 30 mins when i changed the earth grounds?

Self induced problem.Never spray petroleum products (penetrating oil) in areas of high heat, they will burn off and leave gunk behind.Using brake cleaner (evaporates completely and probably bad for the ozone layer) clean your wastegate actuator completely, use vise grips on the arm (not the shaft) to move the wastegate to get all the gunk out.You may have to use a toothbrush or steel wool to get it clean.Then use spray graphite to lubricate the actuator working it back and forth with the vise grips.Also take apart and clean the rubber tube between the wastegate actuator and turbo.Canman

[KurtMan 2]

So CANMAN i just want to be clear, spray brake cleaner INTO the wastegate to clean out the "gunk" left behind from the penetrating oil?

Edited April 23, 2013 by KurtMan

[CANMAN 23]

Not into the wastegate, into the wastegate actuator where the rod comes out and at the pivot the arm attaches to.When clean, lube with Graphite spray lube and move back and forth with vise grips, then lube gain.Canman

[KurtMan 2]

Yes, i meant the wastegate actuator. Sorry i wasn't clear, thanks again.

[KurtMan 2]

I think you were right CANMAN! After manipulating the wastegate and lubricating it she drove more normal, I think it needs a few more spirited drives before its %100. Thanks again!

[Francesco 71]

You're welcome.

[KurtMan 2]

OOPS, so sorry Francesco!!! Where's the emoticon that shrinks into oblivion from embarrassment!?THANK YOU FRANCESCO!!!

[CANMAN 23]

Your welcome,Did you clean the tube between the Wastegate and Turbo?Canman

[KurtMan 2]

No I didn't CANMAN, the tube had a clip I've never seen before and wasn't comfortable removing it.

[CANMAN 23]

This tube could be partially plugged, don't worry about reusing the clips, just get the correct size hose clamps to replace them.Take the tube off and use brake cleaner, a pipe cleaner will help (the kind pipe smokers use to clean pipes).Canman

[smartme 6]

Self induced problem.Never spray petroleum products (penetrating oil) in areas of high heat, they will burn off and leave gunk behind.Using brake cleaner (evaporates completely and probably bad for the ozone layer) clean your wastegate actuator completely, use vise grips on the arm (not the shaft) to move the wastegate to get all the gunk out.You may have to use a toothbrush or steel wool to get it clean.Then use spray graphite to lubricate the actuator working it back and forth with the vise grips.Also take apart and clean the rubber tube between the wastegate actuator and turbo.Canman

Hi CANMAN. When you say "arm", do you mean the end piece past the adjusting bolts? Likepart of the shaft, but the right hand end part? Just trying to get it out of limp mode. Often the code doesn't trip, but easy to know when it goes inlimp mode.Could you also recommend a brake cleaner that won't hurt the rubber hose as I want to tryand clean that with the brake cleaner as well as you mentioned. Edited August 10, 2013 by smartme

[KurtMan 2]

This should answer your first question.

http://www.evilution.co.uk/581

[smartme 6]

That helps, thanks KurtMan!

[Alex 21]

Hose is cheap, readily available and has a limited life anyway. What's all this chatter about cleaning hoses! Cheap easy things that often need replacement should always be changed when when they need to be removed for other reasons.

[smartme 6]

Some of us live far away from MB dealers so opt to clean things first!

Edited August 12, 2013 by smartme

[CANMAN 23]

Any of the spray can brake cleaners are safe to use with rubber or silicon hoses.Your limp mode could also be caused by a partially clogged EGR valve, they don't start setting codes until they get really gummed up, if only partially clogged they cause problems without setting a code.You can find instructions for removing the EGR for cleaning and instructions for cleaning it while installed in the car.I personally believe removing it for cleaning does a better job and isn't that much more work.Look in the Articles section, one member made a tool for removing the plunger which is circulating around on a borrow it and pay the postage basis.canman

[smartme 6]

[]would dumping a can of seafoam in the tank help clean the EGR valve? I was thinking of doing this on our long drive and tackling physically cleaning the valve over Winter.

[KurtMan 2]

Almost certainly not. It seems like a daunting task to clean the EGR at first, but if take a few hours out of your schedule you can do it no problem. BTW where are you located? Perhaps another member near will be generous enough to help.

[smartme 6]

Almost certainly not. It seems like a daunting task to clean the EGR at first, but if take a few hours out of your schedule you can do it no problem. BTW where are you located? Perhaps another member near will be generous enough to help.

Good to know, then I won't use seafoam I'm located in Salmon Arm, BC. I will study again the EGR cleaning step by step. I rememberI need to remove the rear bumper etc, which I've done before. Just want to be confidentenough to actually pull the valve, clean it and put it back without messing up.