wetcoastnoel

450 Hitch For Bikes Or Small Trailer

13 posts in this topic

Hi, put together another hitch for my other smarty, took a couple picts, yes Smart cars can tow, when I bought the car new from 3 point motors they have me a brochure on its towing abilities.

I painted the hitch grey to try to match the cars other color but might put it over to black for standard hitch color, Its Bolted right to the frame, Tig welded . Might take it off and cut it back 1" to reduce any chances of knee bashing... what do you all think?

and this way I can use a standard 2 bike carrier that was not an arm and a leg.

Im told I need to build another hitch for the wifes smarty.

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Great job. You can dress it up a bit with a cover. Mine is a little different design. It has a part that unbolts from the stinger making it a little shorter. We use ours for towing our little tent trailer and Kayak.

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I like that alot, I am thinking of making my next one shorter also, but dont want to fight with how far it it has to come past the plastic to put the pin in it... do you have a close up of yours?I have to make one for my other smart car.

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[unfortunately I don't and I can't get a picture right now because the car is in Palm Springs. I have one on my other car as well but it is more like yours. When I get down in the fall I'll take a couple shots.

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Hi, put together another hitch for my other smarty, took a couple picts, yes Smart cars can tow, when I bought the car new from 3 point motors they have me a brochure on its towing abilities.

Any chance you can scan that brochure?

I painted the hitch grey to try to match the cars other color but might put it over to black for standard hitch color, Its Bolted right to the frame, Tig welded . Might take it off and cut it back 1" to reduce any chances of knee bashing... what do you all think?

Looks a little like my SCU hitch. Mounts to the car the same way and replaces the bumper. The SCU hitch receiver tube is welded under the main tube though and sticks out of the lower panel.

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IMHO yours could use a little reinforcement if you plan to hook a trailer to it.

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IMHO yours could use a little reinforcement if you plan to hook a trailer to it.

Curious what you feel should be reinforced to tow a trailer?, Its frame mounted, 6 bolts, 1/4" wall sq tube steel, fully tig welded, welded transport safety chain for emergency chains from a trailer, just did not put on the end of the reciever lip for loads over 3500 Lbs, a reciever could go in the hitch and hang it from a crane and swing it on this hitch. but if Ive missed anything, I will add it or replace/repair . what is your advice? :unsure:

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At a minimum I would put a triangular plate that spans the 2 side tubes as there are 3 different types of load on that center tube. I would also do 2 more overlapping passes on the welds to get rid of the undercut.Those side tubes don't look 1/4 wall. Is that hot rolled steel?

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Your transverse SHS look same size as mine so more than adequate strength, especially since yours is welded directly to the flange plates. The weakest link is flange at end of engine/ transmission sub frame.

Here is my design, a wee bit over engineered but very quick to remove tow bar in preparation for the annual motor vehicle safety test:

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View of steel crash bar complete with tow bar electrics.

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Special flange plate internally threaded ACME 5/8" - 8 TPI. Note the added 4th bolt. Required if you wish to tow a trailer.

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My solution for holding nut for 4th bolt. This additional bolt is required due to higher load when hauling. You will overload flange plate at end of subframe if you only use the 3 existing bolts.

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Towbar fitted at the rear of my Smart Cabrio. Towbar is hot dip galvanized, weathered for 2 years and now painted in black engine enamel.

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Smart A-frame and bike carrier can still be attached whilst tow bar is fitted.

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Special bolt and extension pieces.

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Certified to the highest standard A1 of the American Bureau of Shipping and Maltese Cross applied to indicate built under survey. CE marked to comply with EU requirements.

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This is one of my peices from my smart car hitch stockpile, CWB seems to think it will and the welding will hold up for a medium duty hitch, making another one today with a new addition built in, and shorter distance sticking out of the car. I would use the smaller receiver but I like the ease of using any hitch mount carrier racks, bike racks anything without sourcing adapters.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

My towbar has just undergone its mandatory biennial safety inspection. 

The two special bolts each side are the most critical since non redundant. 

I removed both, cleaned them thoroughly and used dye penetrant to check for crack indications. 

 

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Cleaned in solvent to remove grease that may mask crack indications. 

 

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Soaking for ten minutes in red dye. 

 

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Developer applied. Luckily there were no linear indications.  Of course I had not expected to find any crack indications as stress levels are particularly low. 

 

The most critical area on a Smart 450 with tow bar is the flanges at each side of rear end of subframe and the connecting welds. The welds are particularly poor except on mine where both welds a while back were neatly redone using TIG. 

 

Edited by tolsen

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