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Ruadh

Clutch Trouble

7 posts in this topic

Yes.No wiki.Pretty straightforward, read the threads to make sure you understand how to disassemble, have the tools needed and have the skills.Go to Lowes and buy the acorn nut, that way you have it if needed.Put the back of the car on ramps, or jack stands, disconnect the battery (you have the radio code?)Carefully disconnect the electrical connector to the actuator (clean and inspect the wires).Use a propane torch to heat the bolts ones t a time until red hot.Wack the bolt head with a hammer to free corrosion.Carefully try to loosen, if it doesn't move, heat again, hammer, loosen repeat until you get all 3 off.You really want to be careful, breaking the bolt is a pain.Remove actuator, use a bright flashlight and mirror to inspect the hole the actuator rod goes into.There should be a small dimple in the fork, no sign of cracks or a deep hole.If there is a problem, drill the acorn nut to fit the actuator shaft and solder/braze/weld/tap the nut onto the shaft.Put a dab of heavy grease on the end of the shaft or nut before reassembly.You may want to lube the inside of the actuator with spray white lithium grease.Reassemble and tension according to Evilution, then go to Mecedes or someone with a star machine and get the clutch taught in.Canman

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There is no easy way to do the pre-load properly, even using the smart "special tool" and a spring balance (aka fish scale). The part, as it comes from MB, doesn't have an anchor point for the spring balance. I tapped the hole for an M10x1.0 bolt, but because the axis of tension is way off centre the bracket just pulls off he actuator. I removed the bolt and modified the hook on my fish scale, then put the now-much-smaller hook in the hole. I also bent the longitudinal tab inwards a bit. I managed to get the bracket to stay on while applying load and tightening the bolts, but it really is a PITA, especially when lying on your back with little room to move. I think I'll make my own "special tool" and JB Weld it to the actuator for next time. FWIW, the bolts are only spec'd to be torqued to 10 Nm, so they are not difficult to remove. But I'm quite sure I'll need a new clutch before the next time I have to adjust the actuator. The last two actuator failures and now the fork hole have likely chewed up most of the clutch friction material. I'm at 118k.

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Thank you guys.Is this something that can happen to all the Smart cars or mainly just the diesels?

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