turbomar

Egr Emulator

101 posts in this topic

hey guys, i got the ebay EGR unit from poland but it did not come with instructions for installation, what wires go to what wires?

I cant install it unless i know, does anyone have a picture of the wires going into the plug? or can you take a picture of your install instructions?

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Yes, there are numbers on the EGR plug. Also, as a thing to confirm that the numbers are correct, the wire going to pin 4 on the connector is blue.

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Got it all wired up and blocked off the egr feed, turbo now spools at idle! and there is much less smoke under WOT. i have yet to see fuel milage increase but i just filled up so i'll know in a week or so.

Does anyone know if the egr feed tube can be removed completely? i know it goes to the egr, but it also goes somewhere up front of the engine, where does that go?

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I haven't removed mine yet, but yes it's doable. With the rear end and crash bar off, you may be able to get at the Torx bolts on the manifold end of the tube; the gasket and blocking plate are the same fit at that end. It's likely that you can only get the bolts out by removing the manifold from the block. Oy. The coolant hose connections there just complete a loop from the thermostat. You can either join them with a union (coupler) at the back of the engine, or lower the engine and cut the hose and fit it back to the thermostat (removing the segment that runs to the EGR feed tube).

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Thanks Bill! I'll likely get a round tuit before winter, when I tackle the thermostat, service the starter connections and swap the injectors.

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Well, I am testing the best Emulator ever produce yet, thanks to Sitckman007.

You can find his post on it, it is a direct plug in, no wires involved, it's a one piece and fits right into the plug, noting to add and no wires to cut, it even has 2 special tie-downs moulded into it for zip ties, you won't find a better emulator anywhere on this planet, I can tell you that.

It takes 1 minute to install including the zip ties.

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Got it all wired up and blocked off the egr feed, turbo now spools at idle! and there is much less smoke under WOT. i have yet to see fuel milage increase but i just filled up so i'll know in a week or so.

Does anyone know if the egr feed tube can be removed completely? i know it goes to the egr, but it also goes somewhere up front of the engine, where does that go?

I removed my EGR cooling sleeve entirely (feed tube). One of the bolts holding in onto my manifold snapped off so I had to. We removed the bolts, and tapped a 1/2" thread into the manifold where the sleeve came off, and stuck a 1/2" NPT plug in it with some exhaust goop. Better than a blocking plate IMO, and I don't ever plan to re-install the EGR. My coolant hoses were joined at the thermostat when my engine was dropped to change my starter, but you can join them closer to the back as mentioned above, just be careful to get all the air out, mine was a bugger to completely bleed

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Got it all wired up and blocked off the egr feed, turbo now spools at idle! and there is much less smoke under WOT. i have yet to see fuel milage increase but i just filled up so i'll know in a week or so.

Does anyone know if the egr feed tube can be removed completely? i know it goes to the egr, but it also goes somewhere up front of the engine, where does that go?

I removed my EGR cooling sleeve entirely (feed tube). One of the bolts holding in onto my manifold snapped off so I had to. We removed the bolts, and tapped a 1/2" thread into the manifold where the sleeve came off, and stuck a 1/2" NPT plug in it with some exhaust goop. Better than a blocking plate IMO, and I don't ever plan to re-install the EGR. My coolant hoses were joined at the thermostat when my engine was dropped to change my starter, but you can join them closer to the back as mentioned above, just be careful to get all the air out, mine was a bugger to completely bleed

I would say if I had removed the manifold, and read your idea before, that's what I would have done too, plugging that hole with a tapped plug is definitely the best way to go about it.

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Mine was done in situ. My manifold hasn't been off. It took a knuckle and extension, but was done from the back of the car with the impact bar off. Its never too late :)

Ill get a picture next time my back bumper is off.

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After almost a year of looking at CEL with no problem with car except better mileage and snappier performance (lol) I would like light out. I can clear code and the CEL stays out until the next time I start car. The code refers to the emissions but I forget number right now and I won't be back to car for a while. I ordered my emulator from Germany and delivery was excellent ( but emulator was expensive). Coving light solves visual problem but I would like it to work correctly.

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Mhm if your CEL has been on for a year might want to fix whats causing it lol. A emulator by itself will only stop the CEL not fix the problem it will eventually it will get worse.

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Everything works great Code started after egr delete done and relates to emission p0403 or p0405(I don't remember offhand). Travelled all over Alta and BC. I can read and delete but next start code is back. Great car with over 75k on it. Love my Smart and also educating non believers.

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If I do the complete EGR delete, do I still need the emulator? Already bought one, its on its way, should it be put on after the delete or would it be unnecessary?

Edited by Kent&Alex

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Hi everyone

 

So im having the same problem and looking for the easiest solution, head is buzzing with all the information on here, everything from simple workarounds to dropping the engine.

 

I was hoping someone might clarify what I think is an easy option for solving the problem, planning on upgrading the car next year so really don't want to do any major upgrades.

 

If I buy the EGR simulator kit as mentioned from Ebay, and install it along with the included blanking plate will this be enough to stop the continuous problem of the car dipping in and out of limp mode, engine light on and restricted to 3000 revs?

 

Have undertaken various maintenance jobs on my vehicles over the years so whilst no expert im pretty handy once I know what i'm doing.

 

2013 fortwo cabrio CDi 800cc

 

Cheers in advance :)

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1 hour ago, Stimpy2468 said:

Hi everyone

 

So im having the same problem and looking for the easiest solution, head is buzzing with all the information on here, everything from simple workarounds to dropping the engine.

 

I was hoping someone might clarify what I think is an easy option for solving the problem, planning on upgrading the car next year so really don't want to do any major upgrades.

 

If I buy the EGR simulator kit as mentioned from Ebay, and install it along with the included blanking plate will this be enough to stop the continuous problem of the car dipping in and out of limp mode, engine light on and restricted to 3000 revs?

 

Have undertaken various maintenance jobs on my vehicles over the years so whilst no expert im pretty handy once I know what i'm doing.

 

2013 fortwo cabrio CDi 800cc

 

Cheers in advance :)

Welcome to the site, get in contact with a member here named Stickman007......he is the best guy to deal with regarding emulators IMHO...I have had one of his for a year now, never an issue.    IF you are capable and willing, once you have installed the Emulator, remove EGR completely UNLESS  MOT testing requires them to actually look and see it in the system.  Your EGR will still require to be cleaned out simply for good flow characteristics imho, but it'll never send that specific code causing the car to switch into limp mode again. Coming from the motherland way way back, I remember they are picky buggers when MOT's are concerned.   You can easily hide this emulator if you use it imho also. It's tiny.  Do some searching for Emulators here and you'll see a few threads and one shows how to make it, again IF you have some electronics capabilities I would say is best.....check it out.   Good luck.

 

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Stimpy2468's Smart is a 2013 model hence obviously with particulate filter as well.  The EGR emulator discussed here works perfectly on Smart 450 and 451 diesels up to August 2009 but I doubt it will work on a 2013 model.

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This is the EGR emulator you need if your Smart 451 Cdi has particulate filter.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174045443217?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&fromMakeTrack=true

 

Made and sold by Tafmet of Poland.  Second to none emulators.

 

Note that this one connects between ECU and flowmeter and to plug that normally connects to EGR vacuum valve actuator.  EGR valve on the 451 with particulate filter is vacuum operated, not electric like earlier models.

 

There should be no need to fit blanking plate if EGR valve seals.  If not you either clean EGR valve and test it to confirm it seals or fit blanking plate.

 

ECU will detect different air flow if you only blank off or disable EGR.  What the Tafmet EGR emulator does is fool ECU to believe EGR is flowing when it is not.

 

Below photos are from Tafmet's ebay listing:

 

Tafmet4.jpg

 

 

Tafmet3.jpg

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As regards the 451 Cdi engine not running above 3000 RPM, if that is due to particulate filter being too much restricted, you will have to run a forced particulate filter regeneration.  This requires special equipment like Xentry diagonistics.

 

Once particulate filter has been sorted and EGR emulator filter fitted I think the chance of particulate filter getting blocked will be much less since no soot is being recirculated into engine when EGR is disabled.

 

For particulate filter regen you can visit me in Banchory and have it done for a few pints of good ale and a Smart related chat.

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2 hours ago, tolsen said:

Stimpy2468's Smart is a 2013 model hence obviously with particulate filter as well.  The EGR emulator discussed here works perfectly on Smart 450 and 451 diesels up to August 2009 but I doubt it will work on a 2013 model.

Sorry my mistake......I didn't see the year of his just the CDI......dang....Tolsen  will be correct again ......augh....lol.

 

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Thanks guys for all the info, really helpful.

 

I think it might be best to pop it into my local service guy in case its not just the ERG, its pretty much in permanent limp mode now, its usually kicked back into life by now :(

 

Could be a summer job though if I get brave enough lol

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I'm not sure how difficult it is to remove your EGR to clean it to get it operational again, but it's no picnic on a 450 to get the entire unit off engine....so the shop rate will hurt I can only imagine to do the same....damn!
IF you can suspend use of the car until warmer weather unless you have a way to work indoors or at least in a protected area I'd be having a go myself.....it's almost spring back there now isn't it, not the minus 29 degree celcius we are experiencing today here in Toronto....augh!!!!  Do some research here and over at Evilution.co.uk and see if it's something you possibly could do....as it's just difficult to get into the area for guys with chubby hands...lol.  By the way the minimum donation on the other site is money well spent and cheap....if you are wondering. It's not a chatty site at all, it's all technical info to help and slightly difficult to navigate at first but after figuring that out, simple!  Same so to speak as the job you are thinking of doing.  Good luck.
I'll bet it works just fine after a thorough cleaning until it gets plugged up again and hense using the emulator to stop future codes.

 

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