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Jeffbeck

Start, Run, Stall... Repeat!

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Just installed 3 new injectors and the smart runs great! Who would have thought that there would be 6 bad injectors between 2 smarts!I got the injectors from Fred Holms in Vancouver, BC. Great place to deal with! Raj there said that the Canadian diesel is brutal on the high pressure pump and injectors. He said that I should expect 100-150K before the injectors will need replacement again. He suggested using a fuel conditioner to improve lubricant properties of the fuel.Horay! The problem is solved! Will add pics once I am completely done with the repairs :)

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Good. What was the cost of the injectors?I had 250K on a set of injectors that were fine (the car was written off @250K) and many others have gone further than that with no injector problems at all. I think Raj Gidda was being a bit pessimistic. In fact, very few injector problems have been reported here. I do use Petrolabs fuel additive, however, at least, I did on the old car for about half its life. My present car has had the Petrolabs stuff from new.

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227K with precisely zero fuel system problems. Fuel filter done at 50K, 100K and 200K. (The 32K interval is nuts for the smart, the same filter is used on a full-load Sprinter cargo van burning 4X the diesel we do and they have the same change interval.)Use good diesel from busy stations (fresh fuel and they care), keep it clean and dry when you fill, and use a fuel additive regularly. I use exclusively Husky diesel and Howes diesel treat.

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With my smarts (and past ones I still service) I never had a single injector issue. I do use a fuel additive with every fuel up and tell my clients/friends the same which could be the solution/prevention. The last owners of the silver Brabus did have the injectors changed by Glenn but I do know for sure they did not use any additive.

Edited by dmoonen

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I am having the same problem where I start the car, and about 10 seconds later it chokes out and stalls. After reading this post I assumed I had the same injector issue because it behaved the same, but now I have replaced all 3 and the issue hasn't gone away. This is a list of my recent work (within 100km):-all 3 injectors-glow plugs-starter-belts-thermostat with plug mod-fuel filter-EGR delete-intercooler flushed and tested-air intake cleaned with new filter-lubricated wastegate actuator-A bunch of other work not pertaining to engine or fuel systemThe turbo spun freely, the alternator spins freely, the fuel filter had no metal when I peeled it open to check, I run fuel conditioner every tank, I live in Grande Prairie.....all the diesel is fresh, I'm sort of out of ideas.....and patience with spending money on it. Anything else it could be?

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Lower the SAM (fuse box) ( 2 torx T10 screws at the end closest to you ) and inspect (unplug) the brown connector looking for melted plastic and burned pins.The fuel pump and headlights use this connector.If it's damaged you can get a replacement connector from Mercedes or Flying Tiger.Highly recommend that you install relays connected to this connector to power the fuel pump and headlights to prevent a reoccurrence.Search the forum, the relay mod has been discussed lots.Canman

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Just a sign of caution the flex boards aren't aging well and are getting brittle, opening up the SAM is a big risk. Try replacing the connector first if the pins look melted and see is that fixes the problem, if not then you have to dig in further and probably reflow the solder on the effected connection and pray that it works.

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I checked and the brown connector looks fine. I didn't have a lot of time to look, but I'll check all the connectors and fuses when I have time. I'll read up on the relay mod and hopefully do it up. My SAM is easy to get in and out, it only take 10 seconds. If I don't find any burnt pins what would you look at next?

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Mhm maybe get someone with a star machine to read your fuel rail pressure, if the regulator is buggered then your fuel rail cant maintain the pressure it requires to run or start. Which could be your problem if it runs for a second then stalls, SAM related problems are usually the low pressure fuel pump not working all together, if the contact is made the car should work run perfectly but not stall.

Edited by dmoonen

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I may have to do that. Its odd because it only does it when I start the car "cold" meaning it hasn't run in a while. It could be 15C outside, it will still stall if its the first time I started it for the day. If its been running at all, it wont stall. Of course in the winter, as soon as it gets cold enough, it does it every time I start. I have to start it, hold RPM around 2000+ for a minute or so, then it will idle fine. The colder it is, the longer this part takes. It will start no problem, it will run fine afterwards. Just the initial start will always stall out unless higher RMPs are maintained to get it "over the hump".

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I gave a soap spray around my injectors last night and found one that had a good leak. Turns out it wasn't cleaned out very well when I changed the injectors. We cleaned it up and tested it again and now the leak is gone. I'm glad that was discovered. Also we found a relay with a burnt pin and some corrosion. I'm sure it was unrelated because it was the heated seat relay (and my seats work fine). Apparently pin 8 is for stage 2 heat. Anyhow, there didn't look to be any damage on the circuit board so we cleaned it off and put it back. This morning again same problem. Lots of power on the drive to work though :)

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About 200 km ago. When I did all the other work. I was amazed, it was the original filter. And the car had 163xxxkm when I changed it :o

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