Cdi Won't Shift

[2Smart4 0]

Hi all, I have started having this problem for a month now. My car all of sudden stops shifting up or down. It happens after about 30min drive and in all cases I noticed the problem when I was slowing down and the car won't shift down. When I tried to shift down manually, the indicator show 3 dashed lines - - - and the car won't accelerate. So far I manage to resolve the problem by stopping the car and shutting it off for about 30 second. then restart and everything is fine. I have an engine light on but I don't see any code using my CT scanner.any advice?Thanks!

Edited March 19, 2014 by 2Smart4

[FlossyTheSmart 81]

The "Three Bars of Death" generally means there was a fault when trying to perform a shift. Sometimes it's because the car no longer knows what gear it's in, sometimes it's because the clutch actuator wasn't able to move easily, sometimes because the shift took too long. A good first step would be to try lubing the clutch actuator. Another thing to look for would be chafing on the wiring harness that passes under the intercooler scoop. The wires can sometimes get rubbed through, then all kinds of bad stuff happens. Another (more costly) possibility is that your clutch fork has developed a hole. There are some varying solutions around, but I would check the first two possibilities before worrying about this one.

[2Smart4 0]

Thanks FlossyTheSmart. I lubricate the clutch actuator a couple of weeks ago. But maybe I didn't do it well enough. I'll give a try this weekend. I used a 3in1 penetrating oil and just spray it in. Thanks!

[FlossyTheSmart 81]

Try something that'll stick around like a lithium grease, or fluid film.I would definitely look into the chafed wiring.

[dmoonen 54]

Just finished up a smart with three bars of death of the display. Ended up just being some chafed wires just up from the actuator by the intercooler. Took all in with a clutch actuator lube and teach in around 40 min. In my case the wire had a enclosure and it kind of told its own tale from there. Good luck!

Edited March 20, 2014 by dmoonen

[David_18 13]

I already have the same problem few years ago...

Edited March 20, 2014 by David_18

[KurtMan 2]

Got the 3 bars today, first time driving in a few weeks. So as I came to a stop sign along a stretch of exceptionally rough road, I was coasting in 5th gear then applied the brakes and looked at the gear display still showing 5th. I down shifted and it switched from 5th gear to the 3 bars, so I put it into neutral and shut down the car and waited till an audible ticking noise stopped. I turned the key to the first position and it displayed N, so I started it and drove 10 minutes till I reached home. This happened once over a year ago when I pulled into a gas station that had a harsh transition from the road to the parking lot, same symptoms and restart method. I hope it doesn't happen for another year.

[Smart_guy 2]

I just did a clutch on a car and found lots of chaffed wires. A lot of them were dirty and had to be cleaned well to get a good look at them. At the end of the protective cover a lot of wires get rubbed by the stiff edge of old hardened covering. I removed all the covering up to the main harness cleaned every wire and inspected them with a light and knife. In some spots you can just barely see the strands but when you scrape the knife sideways the copper will get shiny. Not too much pressure as to cut the wire. Any place the wires exit the cover, check well. Any place the harnesses cross, check well. Any place the wires would make contact to the inside of the protective cover, check well. I had the green wire of the 5 pin connector that is located on the top front left of the rear subframe broken. The green insulation was rubbed through and the copper was gone for about an inch. Corroded really badly and absolutely no connection. On the high pressure fuel pump's volume control valve harness (2 wire harness going to the High Pressure pump) I found the blue wire's cover gone for about 2-3 inches. In cases where the wire's covering is damaged in a bad spot like just outside of the connector, if the copper is still shiny and a repair will be difficult, it is an option to use RTV silicone to seal the wire back up. If you have to repair a section of wire local part stores have a really nice double wall butt connector. These are expensive but really good because after you crimp the wire into the butt connector, you melt it with a heat gun and it shrinks and there is a glue that seals the butt connector to the wire's insulation. Take a good look at your grounds. The car I was working on today, the 6 grounds that are bolted over the intercooler were all still intact but rotted. They were still copper coloured but the copper was old and brittle. I cut out about 2-3 inches to get to good copper and soldered on a new copper lug. Clean the bolt point too. Good luck.Troy

[Smart_guy 2]

So these are the cracked insulation just outside the connector and the blue wire is where the ribbed covering rubbed through the wire's insulation

[Smart_guy 2]

This is one of the rubs I found that was caused when the harness is bent and the wire rubs against the inside wall of the covering.

[Smart_guy 2]

This is another rub.

[Smart_guy 2]

This is the crazy one on the top front left of the rear subframe. See that green "wire"!!! wow. and notice the blue wire has a notch in it. All from vibrations.

[David_18 13]

Scary !

[dmoonen 54]

Dam good luck man. The diesels are chafing them self's to death!

[turbomar 13]

The engine shakes at its worst on a cold morning start. Stiffer engine mounts would help but then the whole car would rattle to pieces!

[dmoonen 54]

So my easy job that was working well decided to take a nose dive and the electrical gremlins invaded. . gotta start chasing down some wires

Day 1:

Issue and codes:

• Poor shifting

• Codes related to transmission and one EGR code was present

Work done:

• Changed clutch actuator, Lube, adjust and teach in

• Cleaned clutch actuator connection with contact cleaner

• Found 1 chafed wire on the actuator harness, Cut above and below the damaged section and soldered in a new wire, Covered in electrical tape, electrical tape on the main wire, wrapped with protected and taped again

Day 1 result:

• Went for a test drive for two blocks, shifting perfectly returned to shop and read the codes and no codes were found.

Day 2:

• Repaired intercooler and installed

• EGR deleted and emulator in, EGR code present again replaced emulator with one from my Brabus that I know that works, same thing.

• Read the codes and multiple codes found under ENGINE and all codes were related to BAD GROUND or REVERSE POLARITY aswell same transmission related codes.

• Checked the batter voltage: 12.8V, while running 13.7V. Owner changed battery two weeks ago apparently.

• Went for a drive down the driveway, really bad shifting. Cleared the codes and tried again same codes found

• Checked the engines ground, Removed, used a wire brush and contact cleaner

• Removed battery ground and relocated it to the main ground, Removed, wire brush and contact cleaner

• Removed Ebox and installed another from the parts car, Codes still present

• Read codes again and multiple codes found under ENGINE and all codes were related to BAD GROUND or REVERSE POLARITY same thing again

• Disconnected battery and removed the ENGINE CONTROL UNITS connection and inspected for corrosion none found, sprayed with contact cleaner and re-installed

• Read codes; multiple codes found under ENGINE and all codes were related to BAD GROUND or REVERSE POLARITY

Result after diagnostics:

• There has to be a damaged wire/connection going from the engine control unit and the SAM, TIME TO DIG IN!

Edited March 21, 2014 by dmoonen

[dmoonen 54]

Hey Troy I'm in the same exact boat, Same wires and spot on this smart too!

[turbomar 13]

What year and millage do these car have?

[dmoonen 54]

Sadly this one only has 117,000 on it but apparently it's been buggy since they bought it at 40,000km. I repaired two wires above the actuator/below the intercooler that were badly damaged and corroded but still having the same problems. I drew out all the wiring and it seems to be most of the wires pass by the intercooler, I'm going to pull that and review the wires individually. The intercooler was badly damaged from chafing (hence the ton of oil) so my bet is there's a wire close by that got a good beating.

Edited March 22, 2014 by dmoonen

[2006 smarty 1]

WOW, those chaffed wires are something!!! thanks for the pics and info!!!dmoonen, did you have to lower the engine/subframe assembly to make the repairs on the wires close to the intercooler? i have the smart lowering bolts and would like to check the status of my wires

[dmoonen 54]

No lowering bolts used for the wires I first repaired. Since there's some more electrical problems going on I think Monday when I'm back in the shop lowering bolts shall be used.

[2Smart4 0]

For some reason in the past week or so the BARS are back. May be had to do with the hot tempreture. Today i decided to check the wiring. they seemed fine and clean. Car is running a bit rough in the first gear now as well. Still searching for an answer.