Tonight's List Of Engine Codes...so Glad I Don't Need The Dealer To Clear These.

[SkydiverChris 3]

If Mercedes was needed to clear these codes each time, I would have paid for the car 3 times over by now. Best purchase EVER....thanks to Flossy!

Tonight's list of fun (the car was all cleared about a week ago). Engine code popped up on the way home after it went into semi-limp mode again:

EDG

P1704 - Clutch System Fault: No Clutch Transmission RPM Difference between engine and transmission input, although the clutch actuator is engaged (clutch does not completely close or it slips)

P0105 - Overpressure in Turbo

SAM

B1030 - Immobilizer counter overflow or CAn communication is faulty

B1022 - No CAN message from control unit Engine control module

B1020 - No CAN message from control unit Engine control module

B1014 - No CAN message from control unit Engine control module

Instrument Cluster

B1310 - The maximum waiting time was exceeded. No CAN message from

control unit N3/9 (EDG control unit)

B1306 - Gearshift short circuit to ground

ESP Control Unit

C1560 - Function "roller Dynamometer mode" active

C1313 - The CAN communication of the engine control module is faulty

The P0105 is the same one that popped up when it went into limp mode last time. The rest are mostly CAN bus errors which are seemingly fairly common. The only "new" one was the C1560. Not sure what that means yet...

No help needed for these, just sharing my fun....enjoy!

[Francesco 71]

C1560 is a common one too, short at the OBD port usually. ScanGauge installed? It does that.

[dmoonen 54]

Wiring plugged in properly on the engine control unit?

[dmoonen 54]

My guesses in RED

If Mercedes was needed to clear these codes each time, I would have paid for the car 3 times over by now. Best purchase EVER....thanks to Flossy!

Tonight's list of fun (the car was all cleared about a week ago). Engine code popped up on the way home after it went into semi-limp mode again:

EDG

P1704 - Clutch System Fault: No Clutch Transmission RPM Difference between engine and transmission input, although the clutch actuator is engaged (clutch does not completely close or it slips)

P0105 - Overpressure in Turbo

• Sticking wastegate commonly. Work free the wastegate with a large adjustable on the rectangular piece of steel on the exhaust manifold and that should fix that.

SAM

B1030 - Immobilizer counter overflow or CAn communication is faulty

• Bad wire or connection is my guess

B1022 - No CAN message from control unit Engine control module

• Bad wire or connection is my guess

B1020 - No CAN message from control unit Engine control module

• Bad wire or connection is my guess

B1014 - No CAN message from control unit Engine control module

• Bad wire or connection is my guess. Check all grounds and also the connection on the EDG on the air filter box and plugs on the SAM.

Instrument Cluster

B1310 - The maximum waiting time was exceeded. No CAN message from

• Related to the other codes, seems to be a connection loose between the "Sensors-EDG-SAM"

control unit N3/9 (EDG control unit)

B1306 - Gearshift short circuit to ground

• Bad wire or connection, my guess it could chafed wire on the intercooler scoop. This could also be screwing up the other grounds.

ESP Control Unit

C1560 - Function "roller Dynamometer mode" active

C1313 - The CAN communication of the engine control module is faulty

• Bad connection, wire, plug or ground.

The P0105 is the same one that popped up when it went into limp mode last time. The rest are mostly CAN bus errors which are seemingly fairly common. The only "new" one was the C1560. Not sure what that means yet...

No help needed for these, just sharing my fun....enjoy!

Edited August 13, 2014 by dmoonen

[SkydiverChris 3]

Thanks for your input guys. I should have clarified that these codes aren't normally there. They only appear after I have the mini-limp mode occur. When it happens, it feels like the turbo stops working and the engine is just working without boost. I can maintain speed, but it's VERY VERY slow to build speed. Going up a long shallow hill, I have to drop it into 5th to maintain speed.

The CAN errors have occurred before, Flossy helped me clear them before I got my own Star Computer. They haven't occurred until recently when the limp mode started occurring. The odd thing about the limp mode is that once the car cools down, or simply sits for 10 or 15 minutes, it works normally again.

I had lubed the wastegate and cleaned out the EGR when this first happened 2 weeks ago. I can't imagine the wastegate is stuck since it seemed to be moving pretty freely. I will however double check that all the cables are well seated on the SAM.

Thanks again!

[dmoonen 54]

Dont forget to check the grounds, good idea to loosen them, clean and retighten. CAN errors really "shouldnt" be there, theres a bad contact somewhere is my guess.

For overboost I'm still thinking wastegate.

Edited August 13, 2014 by dmoonen

[FlossyTheSmart 81]

I'd suspect that if this all popped up last night, you've got chafed wires somewhere. Lots of water around, getting splashed up into chafed wiring harnesses = trouble.

[dmoonen 54]

I think the key is

"B1306 - Gearshift short circuit to ground"

[SkydiverChris 3]

I think FLossy and Dmoonen are on the right page. It rained yesterday and some a$$hat left my windows cracked. The seat and entire steering column was wet. So, I fully suspect that the shift lever short was from the paddle shufter getting "damp".

The engine light came back on today on the way home, I'll let you guys know shortly what it was.

Edited August 13, 2014 by SkydiverChris

[FlossyTheSmart 81]

Arrrrrgggggggg that's awful. Car would be completely drenched if it was out in the rain with the windows down yesterday

I know Mike T has recommended Molyslip Combat for cleaning up wet electronics before. Wet steering column could also result in wet SAM, so you might want to check that out too.

[SkydiverChris 3]

The windows were only cracked about 1/2", but enough still made it's way in. Totally my fault.

Anyways, the only code that came back is the Turbo Overpressure, P0105 (See attached). This code is the root of my pseudo-limp mode and I've already cleaned out the EGR. The wastegate seems to be functioning ok. Not sure what else to check now.

[SkydiverChris 3]

FWIW, this thread explains my issue to the letter.

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=18501

I'm going to rip the back end off tonight and see if I can find any leaky hoses.

On that same topic, does anyone know how to relearn the clutch actuator with a Star Computer? That seems to come up as a common issue in my search, so I figure I might as well do that at the same time.

Thanks!

[SkydiverChris 3]

Any chance someone could point me towards the vacuum hose(s) that I might be interested in checking for leaks/breaks.

Of all the ones I can see clearly, I don't see an obvious issue.

Thanks

[SkydiverChris 3]

So, I ended up changing the 1/4" ID hose that runs from the turbo to the wastegate actuator. It's about a 6" piece of reinforced hose. I bought Injector hose and hope it holds. I didn't see anything wrong with the existing hose, but it was covered in grime and grease so I couldn't really tell. Unfortunately, sometime between taking a picture and putting the car back together, the piece has gone missing. I wanted to clean it up and see if I could find a hole. Doh! I'll see if it's somewhere around tomorrow and report back.

[dmoonen 54]

You could also test your waste gate pretty simply. Just don't over pressurize it.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ocqmg6R99qo

[SkydiverChris 3]

Thanks, I'll see if I can do that tonight. I was able to easily move it with a pair of pliers when I had the engine out a few weeks ago, but who knows.

That being said.....the same code came back on the way home today. Just cleared it again, but I got a bit more detail this time. See attachment. I'm wondering if anyone knows what the Boost pressure "should" be. The car recorded 2.26 BAR according to the attached images. Any thoughts?

***Just read that stock boost is 1.5 BAR. Wondering if anyone knows what they get with a remap? I have one of the 65HP ones apparently, but my Scanguage reads about 56HP (from stock read of 39HP).

Thansk!

Edited August 14, 2014 by SkydiverChris

[SkydiverChris 3]

I'm uploading a video of the wastegate testing using an air gun as suggested by Dmoonen. Unfortunately, living in the country and getting my internet wirelessly from a town 12km away has it's limitations. Speed in this case, is not it's best feature....

Here's the video: http://youtu.be/TL-Go0CFbvQ

In short, ~8PSI did nothing. ~16PSI made it move ever so slightly, but with 16 PSI, I was able to relatively easily move it the rest of the way by hand. At 24 PSI, it would move slowly to the fully open position (Sometimes faster than others). Any more than that and it pops open with ease. As I understand, it "should" MAX out at 1.5 bar (21PSI) and be fully open. Mine threw a code at 2.26 bar (32PSI).

So now, realizing that my wastegate actuator may be failing, or the valve may be blocked, it means that it has to come apart. I am absolutely dreading this because the bolts are completely rusted over and are surely ceased. Anyone have any advice/recommendations? Should I Iet the dealer do this one maybe?

Edited August 15, 2014 by SkydiverChris

[dmoonen 54]

I believe 31.6psi is where the waste gate should be dumping fully, anything above throws the overboost code I found.

Personally try out the new hose and really lube the joints and take it for a test drive and see what happens. I see the waste gate is working properly from the video.

[dmoonen 54]

I'd just work it back and forth as in the video until it gets pretty much as close as free. The VW's ALH turbos have this problem

[SkydiverChris 3]

Thanks for that! So, for whatever reason, it's getting above that, even though the waste gate seems to be working correctly.

The hose was replaced yesterday, and it triggered in the way home today, so the hose was fine. I found what I did with the old hose and it had nothing wrong with it either. So, I'm guessing that the waste gate opening must be plugged up and it can't clear the pressure quick enough.

Seriously, if it wasn't for Troy, Max and these forums...the car would have been sold long ago. I'm constantly fixing this flipping car. If it's not my random starting issue in cold weather, it's getting over boost, or the alternator is failing, or clutch slipping...

What's even more frustrating is that none the issues are cut and dry. Aside from the cost, I'd be much happier to just replace a broken part instead of working my way through random, sporadic issues.

Anyone else ever get the feeling I'm getting recently?

[SkydiverChris 3]

So, a quick update, but it looks like the engine light and the limp mode hasn't come back yet. I drove 120 yesterday and normally it would have fired on a warm day on the way home. Maybe playing with the airgun loosened it up.

Now, I just have to replace the windshield from the car rolling into the ditch. The saga continues....

[SkydiverChris 3]

Well...the overboost issue is back with vengeance. Engine code P0105 – Engine: Component B28 (Intake Manifold pressure sensor) has Overpressure in turbocharger on the way home yesterday, and on the way in this morning. Started car shopping last night and found that nothing gets gas mileage like these cars, so it looks like I'm going to keep dumping money into the car. Unless of course someone wants a Grandstyle with 66,000 km's on it, but hasa wastegate issue? Could be an easy fix, I just haven't found it yet. Haha.

Here's what I have planned next:

1. Delete the EGR and replace with a straight pipe and EGR emulator (Thanks Azhela, Stickman & Flossy)
2. Consider replacing the entire manifold and wastegate with new components (depends on $$$)

My logic is that if I'm getting overpressure, I can probably safely say that the turbo is working. So, either the EGR has something to do with it, or the wastegate actuator is failing/sticking, or the wastegate itself is sticking. I've already replaced the hose from the turbo to the actuator, so the only things left are the actuator and wastgate itself, along with possible manifold blockage.

Anyone have an idea what a new manifold and/or wastegate actuator would run me in part costs?

[SkydiverChris 3]

Thanks Bill,

I do have a ScanGuage (with X-Gauge) so I'll program a boost readout tonight. Programming details found in post #1 here for those interested: http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=13133

It seems to happen pretty randomly. Yesterday I was coming on the on-ramp, and in 4th gear still coming around the corner and not accelerating, felt the "pop" and lost power. Sometimes it's on my way home farther down the road, and I'm in 6th gear driving 100kph consistently. As I go up a slight incline, or just crest the top, it pops.

Did you see the youtube video I posted above of me playing with 8, 16, 24, and 30 PSI from the air compressor? It seems to be working correctly as far as I can tell. (

).

You're correct about the actuator and manifold, it's a sealed unit. I'd happily shell out the $1300 to replace it, but I have a fear that it won't solve the problem and I'd just end up dumping more money into the car. I might have to take that chance.

[MikeT 744]

I had that engine/transaxle speeds mismatched code years ago in my first car and it was a failing clutch actuator. New one and the problem didn't come back at all over an additional 170K km,

[SkydiverChris 3]

So, I just got home and it went into one of the worst limp modes I've had yet. I couldn't maintain speed in 6th gear on a flat piece of highway. 5th "just" maintained speed, no increase. Slowed to 70 going up and hills and had to drop to 4th to maintain speed. Boost was reading between 8 and 16 PSI before it happened, went up to 18.6 PSI when it happened, and then it didn't go over 12 PSI. My fuel economy was 12.8L/100km.

Only error was the same P0105 - Overpressure in Turbo, nothing else...Check engine light was activated.