Crankcase Technical Info

[mmallin 0]

Hello!

I've got a 2005 Smart 450 CDI currently in pieces. I've gotten pretty far in tearing down the engine, but I haven't had any luck in finding torque specs, bearings and tolerences for the crankshaft.

Does anyone have any information on the bottom end of the engine?

My current goal is to rebuild the engine so that it lasts another 100k km or so... Is there any other major maintenance I should undertake with the car in pieces?

Thanks,

Mike.

[mmallin 0]

One more request of info to add; I probably scratched the crankshaft when pulling out piston 1 ; What's the tolerance for getting the crank ground?

Thanks!

[smart142 605]

Try this....http://www.fq101.co.uk/data-a-reference/50-tightening-torques.html

You could also call Troy, he's close to Ottawa and might have some info.

Phone Number: (613) 558-4742 Location: Williamsburg, ON

Hydraulic lifters and oil pump sprocket and chain seem to be weak points on this engine - I would replace them with new.

I would have the starter rebuilt when you have the engine out - they are very difficult to replace when in situ. Also pay close attention to the electrical connections to it - use dielectric grease as there has been corrosion problems

Good luck!

[mmallin 0]

Thanks smart142!

I'll give Troy a call later this week.

I took a look at the sprocket and it seems good, but this engine may have been rebuilt before. My friend and I have been disassembling it for the past few months and have been finding weird things such as threadlock on the head bolts and teflon tape on the oil pan ones... Not sure if this is normal, but I don't think it is.

Lifters seem to be the old style according to http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=25824#entry301379. I'll get those replaced as well.

I have a bunch more questions, but I'll save those for another thread.

Thanks again!

[tolsen 630]

There is no need to rebuild these engines, certainly not after 100,000 km.

What is wrong with it apart from the damaged done during disassembly?

Did you measure compression?

The hydraulic tappets are very reliable and seldom need replacing. They are used on a range of MB engines not only the OM660. Those tappets you see in the link is just tappets from another manufacturer. Same style as you have are still being made.

[mmallin 0]

Let me tell you the entire story of this car as it will probably help clear things up.

The car was originally purchased in October 2013, at ~ 175k km on the clock. It ran well enough for a while, then started getting noisier (timing chain tensioner snapping) as well as having the 3 bars of death on occasion.

It "died" at 184k km when I noticed a huge puddle of oil on the ground after a long drive on the highway; dipstick was below the low level (was checked regularly). When disassembling the car to figure out what happened, the turbo's oil line had corroded through and was just shooting oil all over everything in the engine compartment. Brought it to the dealer and they quoted about 7000 in repairs. Let me dig up the repair notes for what exactly they were looking to replace. My thought is that it may have ran dry and wrecked a bearing along with the turbo, hence the complete disassembly.

It's my mom's dream car, so I'd like to rebuild it and keep it running for at least another 100k km.

This leads to the rebuild question: What should be replaced/rebuilt while the car is in pieces?

Things I have so far:

• Thermostat/restrictor mod
• Engine
• Rebuild HPFP
• New turbo/exhaust manifold
• New clutch actuator (as the old one is corroding to dust)
• New clutch fork (to put off the 3 bars of death if the fork punches through
• Wheel bearing (rear right had issues)
• Exhaust system (corroded and the top seam of the muffler split)
• Suspension parts (corroded - may just need a cleaning)
  

EDIT: Found the dealer quote:

• DIESEL MOD - 0001673V012000000 - $570
• NUT (2) - 120-142-00-72 - $4.28
• AIR LINE H - 0019834V001000000 - $111.55
• HIGH PRESS (HPFP) - 660-070-00-01 - $1483
• TURBOCHARG - 660-096-01-99 - $1781
• SEAL - 660-142-00-80 - $5.89
• GASKET/SEA - 660-187-01-80 - $2.80
• STUD (7) - 111-990-04-05 - $26.67
• SEALING RI (4) - 007603-010110 - $5.48
• GASKET (2) - 0004615V002000000 - $2.48
• CLUTCH ACT - 0003226V016000000 - $623
• RELEASE SY - 0011709V007000000 - $168.45
• MODULE CLU (Clutch module?) - 0009856V002000000 - $885
• SCREW (4) - 001-990-91-01 - $5.28
• HOSE CLAMP (4) - 535 - $6.60
• G-48 ANTIF - Q-1-03-004 - $28.45

Total: $5724.91 + 11 - 16 Hours Labor (~120/hr here) = $1320 - $1920 = $7044.91 - $7644.91

Edited December 2, 2014 by mmallin

[tolsen 630]

In what state where the conrod bearings?

[mmallin 0]

Piston 1 looked good when I pulled it out; still need to degrease it. 2/3 are still in the block

EDIT: I'll post a pic when I get home and clean it up.

Edited December 2, 2014 by mmallin

[tolsen 630]

Condition of bearings , not pistons.

[mmallin 0]

My bad. Bearings looked a bit worn, but back side was discoloured a bit. Attached are pics, bottom bearing is one furthest from the piston.

Ignore the scratches on the inside of the top one, those were my doing while I attempted to get the piston out...

Edited December 3, 2014 by mmallin

[tolsen 630]

Those bearings look normal hence engine itself did not suffer any damage.

Turbo is most likely fine too. It's drain pipe is more prone to leak due to the larger diameter and thin wall.

[tolsen 630]

Is the scratch you accidentally did to crank pin journal bad? I would just clean it up and measure play in journal bearings. Then reassemble with existing bearings if within spec.

How is cylinder head? You should remove valves and lap them in.

[mmallin 0]

It doesn't seem too bad, probably mild as I can't get a good picture of it. I'll keep it as a spare (maybe turn it into a lamp), and grab one out of another car.

I contacted Troy, and for those watching the thread:

Hi mike, there are no production adjusted sized bearings to my knowledge. A couple options you have are contact a good machine shop and seek advice there or find a used crank in good condition. <snip>

[tolsen 630]

Oversize bearings are available both main crank shaft bearings and big end. Better and quicker to clean up your journal.

[mmallin 0]

Thanks tolsen. I'll know more once I get the bottom end in pieces.

I thought the lifters were in good shape, but once I got the oil off them they were looking quite worn down.