Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
SyCo

Gear indicator stay blank car won't start - 2006 Fortwo diesel - FIXED

29 posts in this topic

Posted (edited) · Report post

First I've searched quite a bit here and elsewhere about my issue but found nothing...

I've just bought a defective 2006 Smart Fortwo diesel. Previous owner said It used to work then one day it refused to start.

When I put the key On, I get many lights and information on the cluster but I get nothing in the gear indicator. No "N" or numbers, no key symbol, no 3 bars it is just blank... If I try to start the car I here what sounds like a pump and a couple of relays but no go. Any idea where the look ? SAM module ? Brake switch ? Clutch actuator ? Bad ground ?

Another weird thing, if I apply the brakes, everything in the cluster light up the same as if put the key to ignition ??!

Thank you :icon_smile:

EDIT: FIXED !! Look starting at reply #5, smart142 was right on ! It was the clutch actuator. :thumbup:

Edited by SyCo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely sounds like an electrical issue. I would start by cleaning every electrical connection starting with battery and ground. Ground wire is known for corroding. What is the battery voltage?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Battery voltage is 12.15 with key on and around 12.3 key off. I've checked the ground from the battery to the car floor and it's good and clean. I saw a ground in the engine bay that goes from the top to somewhere on the engine that is pretty corroded. That one was not checked/cleaned yet, I'll try to do this one tomorrow. I know the SAM unit has been replaced about a year ago. Do you know if a bad SAM would cause the gear indicator display to stay blank ?? I'll also check for the brake switch but I confirm the brake lights are working and that I hear some "clicks" from inside while applying the brakes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Battery voltage should be 12.6 volts with no load. If your battery is 12.15 volts under a light load then it appears to be essentially dead. Do you have a charger? I would start by charging or replacing the battery.

Then clean the ground connections in the engine bay. It is easier to do after removing the rear bumper and crash bar.

Your SAM is likely ok.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After the ground has been checked.

Look at the actuator. One time I had nothing in the gear indicator and it turned out to be a bad actuator causing the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

Great, I'll check the grounds tonight. Battery is already charging from last night. I'll have a look at the actuator. Maybe removing it (after noting it's position :icon_wink: ) then opening it to see if there is something unusual inside or give it a tap or two to see if maybe the motor is stuck or something and also try to apply grease if I cannot open it...

But I'm still a bit confused as why applying the brakes bring the car "On" like turning the key to ignition ?! :puzzled:

Edited by SyCo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When I turn on ignition I hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds. Every time I step on the brakes I hear a click from under the dash that is either a solenoid or relay. Those are normal sounds which is good.

When you remove actuator look in the hole into the transmission to see if the actuator has punched through. Evilution's website has an excellent description of how to adjust the actuator. If there is punch through then look up the temporary nut fix for this also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

okay, I'll look to see if the actuator has punched through once there. Yes, I've found a couple links with pics and/or vids that give more details. I must first look at the ground / wiring and then at the actuator. About the actuator, is a one from a 2006 (450 I think) the same as the one from a 2009 (451) ?? I could get my hand on a 2009 for test purpose but I'm not sure they are the same.

Thanks :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be looking at the gear position sensor on the left side of the transmission as well, it's cylindrical, kind of looks like an electric motor.

Canman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would be looking at the gear position sensor on the left side of the transmission as well, it's cylindrical, kind of looks like an electric motor.

Canman

I did take a look at the gear position sensor. Removed it, turned the car "on" and rotated it but I did not see anything different in the display... still blank :icon_sad:

I've also removed the gear selector motor to see if it wasn't jammed and it was turning easy by hand. I've also tried to rotate the "gear" inside the transmission were the motor is and I was able to change speed manually so nothing is stuck there.

Edited by SyCo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Try unplugging the clutch acuator.

Yes good idea. First I'll check the ground then I will unplug the actuator before removing it to see if I get something on the display. :thumbup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SyCo, Your problem sounds like a SAM has had water damage, especially if a window leak caused the first SAM replacement, causing brakes to do weird electrical things. Remove SAM and look for greenish connectors- water leak onto SAM. If so, Bottom corner of windshield will need caulking at least and connections cleaned up or SAM replaced and reprogrammed

Edited by NelsonSmart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SyCo, Your problem sounds like a SAM has had water damage, especially if a window leak caused the first SAM replacement, causing brakes to do weird electrical things. Remove SAM and look for greenish connectors- water leak onto SAM. If so, Bottom corner of windshield will need caulking at least and connections cleaned up or SAM replaced and reprogrammed

yes I was thinking about that also... but... I have the 'old' SAM unit and the 'new' SAM unit. They are both really clean. I did remove it and took a look at each connectors and they are all shinny and clean (no greenish or corrosion). I suppose that to cause issues, the connectors/plugs/wires will show signs of corrosion ? Or maybe the SAM is overly sensitive and even the slightest sign may cause issue ?? I've even opened the case for sign of corroded traces but I see nothing apparent :icon_sad:

EDIT: oh , and I have plugged back in the old SAM unit (just in case) and I have the exact same thing.

Edited by SyCo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update: grounds are good. Unplugged the clutch actuator and got "N" and the the car started :)

Removed and unbolted the small motor on the actuator. Everything was really dry an dusty (rust) inside the actuator. I've put grease in it and put it back. I was under the car an saw that it moved only one time then nothing but the car started with it plugged. I then got the 3 bars on the display.

After, if I leave it plugged, I cannot get "N" and cannot start. I must unplug it to get "N" and be able to start the car. I've tried plugging back the actuator but it will not move anymore... Any idea ? Maybe a bad actuator ?

I've also noticed that the plug on the actuator has 6 pins and one is corroded. I will try cleaning it...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If cleaning the plug doesn't work, you will need an actuator.

It just so happens that I have a used one at the shop :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If cleaning the plug doesn't work, you will need an actuator.

It just so happens that I have a used one at the shop :D

After a bit more testing, I'm pretty sure the actuator is bad... I would be interested by yours if it is in good condition .. Can you send me a PM with the details and how much you`re asking ? Thanks ;)

Edited by SyCo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If cleaning the plug doesn't work, you will need an actuator.

It just so happens that I have a used one at the shop :D

Ok so I've bought a used clutch actuator from Uncle Glenn (great guy) ... It should be delivered on tuesday. Now, following some guides and posts I should be good on installing it so my Smart will be drivable. Of course I'll confirm once installed if it solved my problem... In the meantime, I would like to know if someone know how much it will cost at a Smart dealer for the clutch actuator adjustment ? Just an approximative cost to avoid paying too much ?? :icon_wink:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just do it yourself. Takes maybe half an hour. It's literally three bolts and a electrical connection

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Or are we taking price wise? Part alone at the dealer is around the $650 ball park

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would like to know if someone know how much it will cost at a Smart dealer for the clutch actuator adjustment ? Just an approximative cost to avoid paying too much ?? :icon_wink:

It should take a tech less than 30 minutes to hook up the computer and do the clutch actuations.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just do it yourself. Takes maybe half an hour. It's literally three bolts and a electrical connection

Hum yeah, I've already removed and reinstalled the old unit during my tests and the "mechanical" part is really easy. But I was thinking more about the electronic adjustment from the dealer. I've been told it's required to have the clutch work correctly ??! I don't have the MB Star System at home :icon_wink:

I would like to know if someone know how much it will cost at a Smart dealer for the clutch actuator adjustment ? Just an approximative cost to avoid paying too much ?? :icon_wink:

It should take a tech less than 30 minutes to hook up the computer and do the clutch actuations.

Ok, and is it required or can I go without it if the clutch behave really good ?? I will ask for an estimate before going in the shop just to be sure...

Thank You

Edited by SyCo

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If the computer was taught properly before and all components are in good shape, you can adjust the actuator by feel. As long as you know what a clutch engaging should feel like. Mechanical adjustment is basically push it hard in, allow it to slide back holding light pressure in, then tighten. Mark position, check the launch, re-adjust if not happy.

Key: It feathers the clutch with light throttle, at about 1100 RPM. The car should begin to creep on flat ground, no real urgency to it, should not accelerate to engine speed, only creep forward. No creep means move the actuator out, too much creep, move in.

After mechanical adjustment, when the car is off, if the actuator rod is not lightly pre-loaded but instead is loose and rattly, or rigidly held under full clutch spring pressure, computer adjustment is un-acceptable and will lead to excess wear.

Lube the fork/rod interface with that heavy sticky black grease.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

    Chatbox
    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More