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Swedenborgian88

Fortwo 2006 cdi

26 posts in this topic

450 km is safe if the tank is full with 22L. If you are not sure, 400 km.

First blob on the gauge is meaningless because when it disappears totally depends upon the amount of fuel put into the car.

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Does the Pope wear a funny hat?

Never had a full tank go less than 400 km, even in the worst weather or driving with the crazies on 400s with the pedal matted.

As Mike says, the first blob's distance is entirely dependent on fill. If you fill slowly to the top of the neck, expect 80 km, but with sensible driving on country roads that could be higher. Second blob is usually 40-60 km, third and fourth anywhere from 70 to 100 each, and the countdown in the last blob starts 25 to 50 km after the fourth one goes out. Last blob goes out when the countdown reaches 3.0 litres, after which you can expect it to run out quicker than your math might calculate! It is not a very linear gauge at all. I've actually run out two km from a filling station on I-89 in Vermont after it showed 2.5 litres left, just 20 km from that station. Luckily I still had roadside assistance. Car started right up and never had an issue. All this information, though, should be taken with many grains of salt, as your actual fuel economy will depend on many variables including (but not limited to) GTA traffic, weather, driving style, fuel quality and the health of your car's engine, drive train, tires, brakes, etc.

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In city driving keeping up with traffic 400kms is average. 500 if you are careful.

I baby my car and try for fuel economy, I usually manage 160kms on the first blob, the tank usually lasts 600+kms, best is just shy of 800.

They can be tricky cars to fill up full too, gerry cans manage the best fillups (least amount of foam). I can typically get a few more liters with gerry cans vs filling up at a pump, adds a great deal of kms to a tank getting 3-4 more liters in.

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I consistently get 500kms to a tank, but then, I don't drive it like I stole it.

When the first blob (bubble) goes out, I have had as bad as 85kms. and as good as 240 (the 240 is all highway at 100kph..no stops or traffic issues) ... If you are really worried, simply carry a 13 litre (3 gallon) jerry can will keep you safe enough to get to the nearest station, should you actually run out..

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Working my way through my first tank and my mileage seems on track to barely clear 200 km. 

 

Thermostat is malfunctioning however so I'm guessing once I start seeing proper operating temps I'll get better mileage =S

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200 km would be 10 L/100 km, that's implausibly high in a smart cdi.

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On 12/15/2017 at 10:25 PM, MikeT said:

200 km would be 10 L/100 km, that's implausibly high in a smart cdi.

When I hand calculated the mileage I got 5.5 L/100 km. The next tank offered 5.0 L/100 km with a lot less stop and go in it but all city. When I filled it from '5L to empty' the most I got in there was 13.75 L, i had just shy of 250 km on that tank. I am ecstatic even with that considering the type of driving I'm doing. My truck returned about 18.1 L/ 100 km in the same driving conditions so in comparison it is dirt cheap. 

 

I put the new thermostat in this weekend, changed the oil and air filter. Both were quite overdue. I've also picked up 3000 L worth of diesel conditioner that I'll start adding to next tank. 

 

Very nice getting heat in 2 minutes and up to full operating temp within 10 mins. I'm finally seeing 80C+ I'm hoping to see 4-4.5L/100 km.

 

Working on the car is not unreasonably hard but what I do not appreciate is Mercedes fascination with inverse torx screws and Clic clamps. I did not re-use the Clic clamps, and I used 12 point sockets. Once you drop the engine and remove the rear bumper, it is not bad at all to work on. It took me about 5 hours to do the thermostat, oil/filter, air filter but if I was to repeat the process I'd be able to do it in about an hour flat. What took most of the time was just figuring out the car and learning about it. If I had to do several maintenance items however I would contemplate removing the engine entirely prior to performing the work. Basically by the time you've lowered the Engine you're really only a couple more bolts away from completely removing the power train. So for several jobs at once it would be advantageous to just remove it.

Edited by kelaog

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5.5 is really quite bad but within the high normal range.  I got 5.5 L/100 km on a tank on I-94 at a constant 130 km/h into a headwind.

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The car could be remapped with a performance tune instead of stock. Thus the poorer fuel economy.

canman

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13 hours ago, CANMAN said:

The car could be remapped with a performance tune instead of stock. Thus the poorer fuel economy.

canman

I think the service was just really behind and combined with a bad thermostat resulted in the bad economy. The sad part is I took this car to a well known mechanic prior to buying it because I did not have the time to inspect it thoroughly myself. I am wondering what I paid for? I mean other than the bad thermostat everything is in perfect working order...for now. 

 

If this thing has a performance tune I can't even imagine driving it factory LOL. My plan was to buy the laptop tuner connector and put the bytesharp? Byteshooter tune on it.

 

Last couple maintenance items I am still waiting on, new fuel filter (although I may as well wait until the light comes on based on what I've read here) and a syringe to measure out my fuel conditioner. 

14 hours ago, MikeT said:

5.5 is really quite bad but within the high normal range.  I got 5.5 L/100 km on a tank on I-94 at a constant 130 km/h into a headwind.

Is your car tuned? I've never attempted such a speed with the car but have got it up to 115/120 no issue. 

 

I just filled the tank last night and reset the odometer, so I'll see what kind of fuel economy I get this week to/from work. Will post the results :)

 

On second thought I think I've decided to sell this car (Pulse) and buy a Passion if I can find a good one. I was very rushed in purchasing this car so it wasn't the best buy. I'd really like AC and power steering so the Passion is probably a better bet. 

 

Edited by kelaog

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The stock '05 and '06 diesels will go to 140kph and should be able to hold that speed on a level stretch of road without the remap.  Remapping has it's positives though and I recommend it

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The OE cdi is electronically limited to 135 kph/84 mph and has no issue maintaining that speed following a transport through the hills of Tennessee.

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When I did 130 into the headwind on I-94 the car was not remapped, but it is now.  My foot was hard to the floor for 2.5 hours on that 5.5 or 5.8 L/100 km run!

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4 hours ago, kelaog said:

 

On second thought I think I've decided to sell this car (Pulse) and buy a Passion if I can find a good one. I was very rushed in purchasing this car so it wasn't the best buy. I'd really like AC and power steering so the Passion is probably a better bet. 

 

 

Power steering did not come with the passion.

It was an option that we were not aware of. A very,very small number of passions had it - some glitch from the factory.

 

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36 minutes ago, smart142 said:

 

Power steering did not come with the passion.

It was an option that we were not aware of. A very,very small number of passions had it - some glitch from the factory.

 

Oh really? I did not know that. When was power steering an available option? for the 451? I can live without P/S

 

Shame I really like the car, I have now established a baseline with it but I'm not sure I can live with no a/c in the spring/summer here during a stop/go commute. 

 

Only other option is for me to build an A/C system. I calculated already I'd only need about 300W of cooling (500 realistically with poor insulation). I do enjoy a good engineering project outside of work D: 

Edited by kelaog

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The AC system on most diesel cdi's tend to lose the refrigerant after a couple of years, probably too much vibration. Some cars were fixed under warranty I think with parts from the 451 model. 

The best way to get AC is to get the components from a scrapyard or buy a smart with a blown engine and AC. You will need a licensed garage to purge/ leak test and fill the system when you are done.

If you get another car for parts take it to a garage to remove the freon (assuming there is any left) before disconnecting any lines.

canman

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Interesting.  My 450 cdi's A/C has blown cold since being repaired at smart Victoria in 2010, no refills since.  It probably had the kit added.

 

PAS was a little known factory option.  A/C was a very common option on the pulse, both of mine had it.  Heated seats too.

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1 hour ago, CANMAN said:

The AC system on most diesel cdi's tend to lose the refrigerant after a couple of years, probably too much vibration. Some cars were fixed under warranty I think with parts from the 451 model. 

The best way to get AC is to get the components from a scrapyard or buy a smart with a blown engine and AC. You will need a licensed garage to purge/ leak test and fill the system when you are done.

If you get another car for parts take it to a garage to remove the freon (assuming there is any left) before disconnecting any lines.

canman

Hmm, in my preliminary research I found that most people said it was far more economical to swap the car rather than installing A/C. I have no issue about doing this however, factory will always be better. Any cases of this being done? 

 

I was just going to build a small system and cut a whole in the factory ducting and use a forced air fan and a flapper from there. I haven't played around with Peltier systems much, but considering I only need 300-500W it's economical in this application. 4 of them with the cold side and a heat sink inserted into a square duct would probably work quite well. With a small radiator and an small aquarium pump to cool the hot side. Depending on what the factory ducting looks like I could install this downstream of the fan for OEM like functionality D: Will order parts and get to tinkering over the break coming up :) I think all of this can fit under the front bonnet from pictures I've seen online. 

 

This is gonna be fun

Edited by kelaog

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Last tank I got 4.7 L/100 km with maybe a 75/25% city/highway mix. City mileage of course for me is a lot of stop and go. I am happy with these results and I'm hoping they'll improve with the use of fuel conditioner. I did notice a bit smoother running around 2k after a good dosage of conditioner. I'm using the Kleen Flow diesel conditioner. I calculated for my tank I need about 8 ml  and I've been adding 16 ml. 

 

My first blob seems to only ever last about 50 km. I have a feeling that I am filling the car wrong. While I'm happy with the mileage I don't think I could get 400 km on a tank like some of you report. I think I'd be empty around 300. I can only ever get about 13 L in there. If it's a 22L tank that means I've got 5 L of reserve and another 5 L of foam? 

 

Wondering what else could cause bad fuel economy on this car other than low tire pressure. Transmission fluid? 

Edited by kelaog

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You have to trickle fill to get 22+ litres in there.  600 km on a tank is possible if it's full and there is a solid amount of slow highway driving in the mix.  At a steady 90 km/h I can get 3 L/100 km. 

Edited by MikeT

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You ought to visibly fill fuel to the very top of the filler tube, that will net you at least 2 litres more than just filling to the click. None of this will change your real world mileage of course. For that, adjust the nut behind the wheel. Shift at 2500 RPM, don't go over 85 kmh, run at 1800 rpm whenever possible.... anticipate lights. There's a hundred threads in here on how to eke out better economy from a cdi.

 

My AC is blowing nice and cold in a 2006, and FWIW, I also have power steering in my Canada1, which was available in the configurator at the dealer for orders - I don't recall it showing in the online configurator however. But it was an option. The original two cars ordered by TFM and Xandria (who own this site still) had power steering!

 

http://akasa.ca/smart/

 

Remember that site??!!!!!

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I'm beginning to think the most accurate fuel economy calculation is going to be with a scan gauge. I tried filling slowly to eliminate the foaming issue and I was able to get almost 11 litres in there before it was visibly full from half empty which is almost as much as I would normally fill from 'empty'.  Filling to the click is probably not consistent due to foaming. 

 

with this 'full' tank, I did manage over 120 km on the first blob, the second and third fell off quite quickly. That was probably 75% highway. I don't think I'll reach 400 km on this tank even with a good amount of highway driving. I usually let the auto do its thing but I have started intervening and shifting it down. It likes to hang up around 3000 rpm a lot. 

 

I'm not sure how to adjust the nut behind the steering wheel, is it hard to get to? 

 

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My 05 was getting 500-555 per tank.... But then I put on snows.  The milage dropped to the 450-475 range  but I now have the ability to not drive a car that handles like a hockey puck (the rears were getting a little on the bald side).

 

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