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Rashutti

Looking for ECU, SAM and key fob

18 posts in this topic

Hi There

I'm new to the site and was wondering if anyone is selling a ECU package for my 2006 Diesel?

I was told by Mercedes Benz I needed to replace the ECU which need 2 other components to work.

I'm not sure if this is the place to post this request. If not please direct me

Toni

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Welcome to the club! Sorry you're having problems with your smart.

What were the symptoms that lead to the problem?

My understanding is that a new ecu is worth over $2000. Is that what was quoted?

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ECU or SAM?

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Yes they quoted over $2500 just the ECU and said you need all 3 units to make the car run!

I drove it in to the dealer because I had intermittent starting problems. After the mechanic tried to source the problem the car wouldn't start anymore.

I had to tow it home with CAA. Now its dead in the driveway waiting for the parts.

Another thing is the battery would go dead very quickly after sitting overnight. I noticed the door open light on the counsel is on (very dim)

When I open the driver side door it is lit very bright. When I open the passenger door, there is no response. I suspect it is perhaps the passenger door switch or tail gate

Does anyone know where the door light and tail gate switch is? I don't see any buttons around the door frame to check

I think it may be stuck on somewhere?

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I have a set, Dash, ECU-remapped, SAM set, and I can include a FOB (but you'll have to sync that). Pm me if you're interested.

The switch I believe is in the tail gate where the latches are.

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Mine had intermittent starting problems half a decade ago. No action at all, usually at the most inconvenient time and place, when turning key to start except faint click from a relay. Turned out it was bad contact on starter solenoid. Quickly and cheaply fixed.

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Bad contact on spade connector to starter solenoid is fairly common, more so in wet conditions.

You can reach in to starter solenoid by removing rhs rear wheel, wheel arch liner and alternator splash guard at side.

Wiggle connector on starter solenoid to improve contact. Better pulling off, clean and reconnect with protective grease.

Edited by tolsen

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I found the cure for the dim light on the dash for anyone who needs to know here..

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=27978&hl=%2Bdim+%2Bdoor+%2Bopen+%2Blight#entry321175

I cleaned the connector and problem was solved!!! :icon_smile:

back to my major problem no start ECU issue

I don't think it has anything to do with the starter that would be the first thing the dealer would check besides the fuse.

The dealer said it was the ECU.Would they be wrong? :lookaround:

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Could well be. They seem to be a bit clueless sometimes. Which Toronto dealer was it?

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Well I was able to clean the contacts on the starter motor and it now turns over!

Hooray!

But it will not start :icon_sad:

I have a new battery in it so it turns over quite nicely. I loosened the fuel line at the CDi and fuel comes out when I turn on the key.

It sputters a tiny bit as if only one fuel injector is working and then the motor stops turning over (if that makes any sense).

I've read that testing the injectors is quite costly.

My friend has a working diesel that has offered to try his injectors to see if that would determine the problem.

He suggested replacing the fuel filter first and flushing out the fuel line before trying to start the motor in case contamination might plug up his injectors.

Any suggestions??? :masked:

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How long has it been standing?

I suspect alternator is seized. Easy to check, just turn engine by hand on crank shaft pulley nut.

Also easy to in seize.

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Do you get any fumes/white smoke when you crank? Any weeping or sign of a leak on the high pressure pump?

Edited by stickman007

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Usually crank and no go is SAM-low pressure connection related IMO. Change the fuel filter and with the lines disconnected place them into a container and cycle the key and see if you have flow of some sort. No flow means lift pump related problem. If its a liftpump related problem I'll bet you its the SAM N11 connection.

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Always replace fire seals if you replace injectors. Same applies to your mate if you borrow his. Soap test around injectors after fitting.

Check out the easy things first starting with alternator, then check low pressure fuel supply. Pressure about 2.5 bar and flow somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0 litre per ignition cycle until pump times out.

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