GRP151

Key Fob repair

26 posts in this topic

I can't believe MB made their Smart fortwo key fobs with a weak thin layer of ABS plastic to attach the key ring. Another case of designed obsolescence!!!

I was about to order online for a replacement case and thought to myself "Hey I won't get this $5.00 ebay Chinese replacement case for a least a couple of weeks!"

So I decided to repair the original.

Well just to let you know, this mod will outlast any Smart key fob on the market.

I used 1/16 drill bit, flattened one side of the case to allow a good surface to drive the bit in and used wire from my old lawnmower throttle cable. The wire is pliable enough to bend yet stiff enough to hold its shape in the case.

I hope you enjoy the post!

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Good looking repair. I had a Chinese replacement case for mine but the OEM remote didn't fit properly and wouldn't work. I bought a complete key and remote (Chinese?) from Glenn and that works perfectly.

Nigel

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You should handle your keys with silk gloves. Mine still look like brand new in spite of being nearly 14 years old.

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Mine came broken. Then I melted some ABS and reformed it. It worked great for a while.

Unfortunately I have a 3500LM pocket flashlight attached to the key ring that put strain on the repair.

I can't tell you how convenient it is to have a powerful flashlight at your finger tips when you need it.

Now it will never give me any problems.

Edited by GRP151

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I hate the Smart key! Why so big?

Some day I will gut my ED (when it's time to upgrade the battery and charger) and be rid of this hideous key. Obviously, most of the electronics will have to go.

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The Chinese ones are great. I got a new case and the copy fit right onto the OEM half. My buttons from the old 2005 smart key were worn clean through. The only negative is the copy has a hatch release icon where it should have a soft top icon. Big deal...

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The Chinese ones are great. I got a new case and the copy fit right onto the OEM half.

I guess they are not all the same quality.

Nigel

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I'm going to wire up another remote to control this SMART remote.Aha!

Here's the plan:

1.Open the remote, remove battery,(optional-----(solder leads to battery terminal for external 3V battery supply using 2 AA batteries or use a 12V to 3v adapter)

2. With my expert soldering skills... unsolder the 3 contact buttons and solder in 3 pairs of leads to the SMART remote circuit board where the switches were.

3. Connect this 4 channel 12V wireless garage door receiver to those leads.........ebay link for $10 ---12V 4CH Channel Wireless RF Remote Control Switch Transmitter+ Receiver

http://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-4CH-Channel-Wireless-Remote-Control-Radio-Relay-Switch-Transceiver-Receiver/400927878793?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D33876%26meid%3Dccdb9e4ca62a4a7f94b41c7e3ddbb72c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161862556076

4. Put everything into a compact container (after programming of coarse)

5. Purchase blank keys from ebay bring to Rona where they will cut the key for free!

6. Remove key from the after market replacement case and cleverly attach it to the new remote of your choice.

Now I could have a remote with up to 200 ft range! The 3rd and 4th button could be programmed to my aftermarket car alarm.

That's it!

Now I can have as many remotes to control this car as needed!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Button-12V-315-433-MHZ-Wireless-Module-Receiver-Controller-F-Remote-Control-BE-/191654481083?var=&hash=item2c9f7f4cbb:m:msmsVldkBMZjoG9TKFvvRwA

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Sale-5x-Plastic-Electronic-Project-Box-Enclosure-Instrument-case-100x60x25mm-/201462632575?hash=item2ee81bd07f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Remote-Key-Case-fit-for-BENZ-SMART-Fortwo-Replacement-3-Button-Fob-5HK-/262248252533?hash=item3d0f36c475:g:WH0AAOSw9mFWHarM&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=4+button+wireless+remote&_sop=15

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Edited by GRP151
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This mod sounds very interesting to me, as I only have one key for my (new to me) Smart. My question is regarding the programming of the key. Do you loose the programming when you remove the battery? As I understand, you would be using a plain key on the ignition, without the remote capability, and your box with the original key and remote garage operator somewhere else in the car, correct?

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This mod sounds very interesting to me, as I only have one key for my (new to me) Smart. My question is regarding the programming of the key. Do you loose the programming when you remove the battery? As I understand, you would be using a plain key on the ignition, without the remote capability, and your box with the original key and remote garage operator somewhere else in the car, correct?

No, you do not loose the programming of the MB key when you remove the battery. That would be a nightmare when you changed your battery or if it would go dead!

All you are doing is extending the capabilities of the remote.

Either by using a larger power source for the key fob (ie another 3V battery pack which has 2- 1.5V AA batteries in it or ... what ever ) or leaving it the way it is and opening up the Black box casing to change the battery when needed.

so to recap....Your using a remote to control your original remote. That is the concept.

The open /lock sequence on your remote will be controlled by the on /off controls from the garage door opener the 'RECEIVER' as shown in the video.

After that point you would use the corresponding 'TRANSMITTERS' that you purchased with you NEW garage door 'RECEIVER' to control it

You then could use your original key with that HUGE MB casing as a mechanical key to turn on your ignition or open your keyed tailgate.

I chose to remove the key 'STEM' from the original casing and secure it into the new 'Transmitter' casing" (using a hot melt cut out method then epoxy it into the casing)

At that point I ordered more blank MB key fobs ( without the chip) from China and had them cut to the original key. At around $5 a key I can afford to make a few of these.

This technique can be applied to every automotive key fob on the market . As long as you are able to solder in the on/off leads to the corresponding switches to that transmitter.That is the most difficult part.

Then that key fob electronics remains in the vehicle permanently. In a secured casing with a larger battery capacity giving it many years of use. The downside is if the battery fails it could be problem.

I like to secure the new Mod casing somewhere in the trunk area of the vehicle that is not to conspicuous and can be accessed with the mechanical key.

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Hi,

I already ordered the components from the links you provided. I need to source a AA battery holder for the two Aa's that will power the fob.

Thanks a million for sharing!

Edited by dank1945

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Pull the serpentine belts and listen again.

It sounds like a rotating assembly grinding away, could be chain inside the engine (oil pump has a chain all to itself way down low), alternator bearings, starter drive stuck on, waterpump, a/c compressor (if equipped).

Might even be inside the camshaft, the roller rockers are know to die/hydraulic lifters.

But first run it for a minute (no longer since no waterpump) without belts.

Here is a link to ebay.com

I don't think you can beat this price. Although I have taken apart a few of my kids old battery operated toys and saved the battery case.LOL

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2-AA-2A-Battery-Holder-Box-Case-With-Switch-EE4069-/261668471290?hash=item3ceca801fa:g:Px4AAOSwofxUbN59

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Edited by GRP151
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Thanks for a great idea!!!

Just finished mine today. I had a bit of trouble with the programming, didn't get the button I wanted matched with the function I wanted on it, but it all works.

The video is not very clear on this. Also, they don't explain how to program extra fobs to the receiver.

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I ordered one of the Chinese key fobs off ebay.  It came with a nice blank that I got cut at Home Hardware for $2.26.

 

So now I have a third steel key, in addition to two keys with fobs.  The steel key will fit in the rear hatch keyhole and unlocks hatch and both doors, in case you lose a key or lock yourself out somehow.

 

Only thing is there is no way to lock the car with just the steel key.

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 Å New keh with electronics only costs £20.  Needs coding and cutting.

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I'm reopening this thread to ask a related question. I need to replace a key fob. Dealer wants $300 plus programming. Many Chinese versions on the internet. Most say "2008 and later"; mine is a 2006. Some say nothing, which leads me to think they are like the others, i.e. for 451 or later. Does that make sense? I found one in the UK for £36 that says it is for a 450, 2006 included, covers US models as well, but Canada not specified. I have found a locksmith in Victoria who says he can program it, has done one recently - need to confirm his equipment can do a 450. Does anyone know of a better source for 450 key fobs with electronics that are compatible and programmable and reliable? I have heard if you program a new key the old one(s) won't work, need reprogramming too. Would I be wise to buy two from the UK? And I am not about to start doing my own programming . . . 

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All keys must be coded same time. 

Chinese keyfobs with blank blade and circuit board now only cost  around £12 on eBay. 

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5 hours ago, tolsen said:

All keys must be coded same time. 

Chinese keyfobs with blank blade and circuit board now only cost  around £12 on eBay. 

 

Send us the link for this  £12 on eBay please. I would like to order a few

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Thanks very much for input on this. I don't have the experience to know if these keys will work on my car, but based on your recommendation I ordered two (from the same outfit on eBay in Canada - it just seemed a little weird ordering parts from Hong Kong from a British site, even if it is a few dollars more) It says I may not get them until February but I will let the forum know how it goes. And watch my one functioning fob like a hawk . . .

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