Hand brake cable , Parking brake cable removal help

[Rashutti 0]

I'm trying to remove the hand brake ( parking brake) not sure what the correct name is, so as to, lower the engine to replace the alternator. I have the 4 long cradle bolts to assist the lowering but I cannot see how to disassemble the main hand brake cable from the 2 drum cables. I read something about turning a disk? or cup to release it but I could not see what part is referred to. Can someone help? Thanks

Edited May 6, 2016 by Rashutti

[Wild! 118]

That part your looking for is right under neath the hand brake , follow the cables and you will see it. make sure that the hand brake is off.

[tolsen 630]

Info on hand brake and lowering on some sites is wrong. Release hand brake - move hand brake lever to lowest position.

Forward end of subframe will then no longer hang on hand brake ratchet rod. Note you need to engage rod with hand brake lever when jacking up subframe into position. Rack on rod should face to left.

Also note tightening sequence of subframe bolts: Front left, front right then either of the rear.

[tolsen 630]

Remember to release brake pipes and ABS cables from plastic clip on left side door sill.

Also disconnect air inlet pipe on left side of airbox. Require removal of wheel arch lining.

By restricting amount of lowering you can get by by only removing round air inlet at side of Trideon steel body.

[CANMAN 23]

No need to lower the subframe to replace alternator, here is a how to wiki.

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?app=ccs&module=pages&section=pages&id=4&record=32

If you need to lower subframe for other reasons like fixing a leaking intercooler, release the handbrake ( lower the handle ), lock a pair of visegrips on the end of the shaft protruding from the cup and pull down. Use a long screwdriver to pop both the handbrake cables out of the cup then turn the cup 90 degrees left or right. Remove the visegrips.

Canman

[tolsen 630]

That works too but I prefer some lowering for improved access to wiring on inboard side of alternator. Having done the lowering procedure numerous times it now only take me ten minutes, provided I do not run into seized bolts in which case the procedure can easily run into days or weeks.

[Rashutti 0]

Thanks CANMAN your explanation makes sense.

I thank you Tolsen but I do not understand your language regarding brake pipes?

Remember to release brake pipes and ABS cables from plastic clip on left side door sill.

[tolsen 630]

Brake pipes and ABS leads are clamped to onboard side of left door sill with a plastic clip. Release this clip or you may have to buy new brake pipes and ABS cables.

[CANMAN 23]

You have to lower the rear belly panel and unbolt the plastic nut securing the brake lines and abs wiring.

It is located in the rear left corner.

That is if you are lowering the subframe.

Canman

[CANMAN 23]

If you are going to lower the subframe I posted a list of steps, no pictures.

See my post no.15.

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=30164

Canman

[Francesco 71]

A $20 annual gift to Evilution more than pays for itself.

[tolsen 630]

You have to lower subframe again to sort that out.  Teeth face left.  Weigh down hand brake lever with a sack of fatties or something go keep it in down position.  Manoeuvre rack into engagement when lifting subframe home.  Confirm correctly engaged before fitting subframe bolts.

[tolsen 630]

Removing hand brake lever is a rather fiddly procedure.  Can of course be done.  I would rather lower subframe.

[tolsen 630]

Copied from a post I made on Smartz:

 

Below details first appeared on OnSmart forum - best forum for sound technical advice:

As promised I am providing further details and pictures on the automatic handbrake mechanism and how to repair a seized up spring rod mechanism.

This is how the spring rod mechanism looks. The rod had to be cut to disassemble:


The large spring stores energy and makes the handbrake action feel softer. Handbrake becomes hard and stiff with a seized up spring mechanism. The cable equalizer part seizes up on the inner cylindrical part, see above picture. The large spring does therefore not compress as intended. To separate the two pieces you need to fit the assembly in a vice and knock the swage in at the end of the cylindrical part to remove the large washer. I drilled out the ratchet bar to 6.8 mm, threaded the bore and fitted a M8 to M6 insert. Then tig welded a short piece of 316L stainless steel threaded bar to the end of the rod. Total length of rod assembly should be 300 mm. Forged the weld area with a hammer while still red hot to avoid any unnecessary machining.


Cleaned up all parts and assembled applying copper slip anti seize paste. You need a puller to reassemble the large spring assembly. Compress using the puller, fit in a vice, drop in the large washer and swage the end of the cylindrical part.


The spring rod assembly fits in the Smart with ratchet rod grooves facing port side (does not fit any other way).


How does the mechanism work?
The long small diameter spring tensions the handbrake cables. It will not apply the brakes as rather weak. The ratchet is disengaged when handbrake lever is down. This allows the above spring to push rod upwards. Ratchet engages when you pull handbrake lever and cables are tensioned and brakes applied. The mechanism adjusts itself each time you lower handbrake lever to its rest position.

[tolsen 630]

Sadly, OnSmart is no more.

[tolsen 630]

Ratchet bar needs to be inserted into its guide in hand brake handle mechanism.

[chetan 0]

On 11/16/2016 at 0:18 PM, tolsen said:

Ratchet bar needs to be inserted into its guide in hand brake handle mechanism.

Hi tolsen. You'd mentioned previously that this "ratchet is disengaged when handbrake lever is down. " Do you happen to have any pictures/videos of the relevant section of the handbrake lever showing how this engage/disengage mechanism works?

 

[tolsen 630]

Have photos. See the last photo in my post above and GRP151 photo as well. Maybe his is not visible to you but I intent to repost that one. 

[tolsen 630]

GRP151’s photo:

[chetan 0]

In the last image on post 14, are those two tiny springs between the 'h' and 'o' of the photobucket watermark? They looked like screw threads to me but the image you just shared in post 19 makes it seem like a spring. If they are indeed springs, what is their purpose?

Edited October 6, 2022 by chetan