Ordered a Chinese turbo center section. We'll see how this pans out.

[booneylander 37]

So I was in my coupe following the SO in her cabrio the other day, and noticed that it was very... VERY smokey. It is remapped but was never anywhere near that dirty. I could hear the turbo spooling but the symptoms just seemed like a lack of boost. The CEL was on, but it had been for a while for an EGR code, and I had loaned out my Scangauge so couldn't do a quick read. So, thinking I might have a boost leak or that the wastegate actuator was jammed half way open or something, I popped the rear bodywork and bumper off to have a look.

Couldn't find any indications of a boost leak, and the actuator was moving freely. But, I did find that the intake hose from the turbo inlet to the airbox was off on the airbox side. Crap. I popped the hose off and got in to sneak a peek at the impeller. Sure enough, many of the vanes were worn down and damaged by foreign objects. I have no idea how long the hose has been off, but I recall when I got the car a year ago, thinking "turbo must be on it's way out, it's awfully loud". So, I'm guessing it was always like that. I never had the back panel off so I never noticed.

Anywho at least I found the culprit for the lack of boost.

I was able to remove the compressor/center/turbine from the exhaust manifold easily enough. So I ordered up a couple center sections from Aliexpress. Cheap. So we'll see how that works out, hopefully they fit and don't just blow up the first time I get into the boost. I guess I'll be a test mule.

I know, I know. "Should have bought an OEM one". But I bought these smarties on the cheap as "beaters", so spending more than the car's worth isn't really my first choice...

[tolsen 630]

China turbos are good enough.

Not smart running without air duct connected to air box. Perhaps more than just the turbo is on the blink?

[booneylander 37]

I was worried about the same. I hope that the turbo did a good enough job of chopping up and debris before it passed through the compressor, and that the oily intercooler was able to trap any heavier particles that could have damaged cylinder walls/rings. I backflushed the intercooler with degreaser and there was a lot of crud in there, but whether it was more or less "crud" than normal operation I have no idea, I feel like they get pretty oily/gross up even at the best of times.

The smoke that was coming out certainly appeared to be black soot and was most pronounced at 2000-2500 rpm, right when I find most of the remaps add a bunch of fuel to get the turbo spooled up. Once the car got up over 2500 rpm, I think the turbo was finally catching up and it would clean up again, or the map was leaning back out. Either way, I didn't notice any blue/white smoke at any times and it still runs well other than being smokey and maybe a bit down on power until higher rpms. No excessive blowby at idle from the crankcase vent tube. So I'm hoping I dodged a bullet and a new CHRA will get it back to running like a champ.

[tolsen 630]

Certain skills are required for turbo replacement something only the very few posses.

Any turbo can blow if incorrectly fitted.

[LooseLugNuts 557]

A friend of mine bought one a few months ago. He just called me and said it was 'Blown'

I hope you didn't order this one. That's where he got his.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/GT1238S-turbo-cartridge-727211-0001-727211-turbocharger-core-A1600960999-012473V001000000-CHRA-for-Smart-MCC-Smart-Fortwo/32265940460.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.19.H0fIGr&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_0,searchweb201602_5_10017_404_507_10040,searchweb201603_7&btsid=6d945f93-070d-46ce-b046-511b8aad2099

im pretty sure mine came from powertec

almost 2 years now still working just fine

only thing i didnt like was i had to reuse my old thin o-ring...new one wasnt in the box

(price seems to have gone up too)

Edited June 26, 2016 by LooseLugNuts

[tolsen 630]

I recall having trouble with the thin o-ring, the one that seals compressor housing against bearing housing. This o-ring tends to swell making it hard to assemble.

[booneylander 37]

This is the one I ordered:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Turbo-Chra-KP31-54319880002-54319700002-54319880000-6600960199-6600960099-0011790V001000000-for-Mercedes-Smart-0-8CDI-41HP-30KW/32612984942.html

[LooseLugNuts 557]

i will never use fedex again

mine came ems delivered via canada post with no fees

try to find another seller that lists ems..... fedex and ups suck balls collecting ripoff brokerage fees

of course the strike is another thing to consider

edit:i just check my old orders and it was sent with a DHL tracking number...i remember getting it within a week or less from the time i ordered it and did not get any brokerage fees or tax hit (and am 99% sure it came thru canada post on my end)

Edited June 30, 2016 by LooseLugNuts

[houseofdiesel 9]

Before you order the center cartridge be sure the manifold has enough left to work with it, most of them are now rusted so badly it isn't possible to even work on it, they flake away and cannot reattach the turbo, I would strongly recommend you have a core before you start.

I wouldn't worry too much about the turbo blowing up, the path to the engine is far enough to avoid parts going inside when it happens. Considering how much a complete turbo is here in Canada, probably worth the risk of trying it.

[booneylander 37]

It is actually coming in DHL, and I had to pay $19 brokerage/tax/fees.

I will report once they are in my hand.

I removed the old center section from the exhaust manifold before starting, and it is nice and clean and should be no problem to reinstall.

[LooseLugNuts 557]

maybe because you bought 2 it was over the non taxable import value?

im 100% sure i was not charged any taxes/duty /brokerage

[booneylander 37]

Turbos came in! At first glance, they look decent. Compressor wheel is cast rather than stock billet. But it fits the compressor housing properly and seems to be of decent quality. Took some pics and will update once I get it in the car and drive it a bit and have some impressions to report.

[tolsen 630]

There should be play in turbo shaft. Without any play there would be no room for the oil.

[tolsen 630]

Then what causes the motor to smoke excessively when he turbo is damaged?

I referred to a turbo in working condition. Our KKK KP31 turbo has oil lubed plain bearings. No ball bearings. There must be sufficient play between plain bearings and shaft fo allow an oil film to build up.

Excessive smoke from engine when turbo is damaged is normal. Both piston seals inside tubo usually get damaged whenever either the compressor wheel or turbine disintengrates. Oil leaks into inlet manifold and/ or into exhaust. End result is little engine power and plenty of blue smoke.

[booneylander 37]

In my case the engine was producing excessive black smoke / soot, Because the car is remapped so you're getting extra fuel but without boost, not enough air to burn it.

Anywhoodles, I replaced the center section with the chinese replacement. While I was in there I installed an EGR emulator, and completely removed the EGR housing, EG cooler, and all associated shenanigans. I used a short section of 45mm aluminum intercooler tubing and a 90deg silicone hose to replace the EGR housing and the rubber elbow with the o-ring connection.

I took the car for a rip and the girlfriend took it to work today. Car is boosting nicely, reading just over 30psia on the scangauge which matches my coupe perfectly. The turbo is pretty loud. Just normal turbo whine/whistle but it's quite noticeable, unlike my coupe that's whisper quiet. Oh well, maybe it'll get quieter once everything beds in and seats itself... but I'm not holding my breath on that one.

All in all well worth the money, cheap way to get the car back on the road. Time will tell how long in hangs in. I will keep this thread posted as the car builds some miles or if the turbo decides to spontaneously disassemble itself.

Edited July 29, 2016 by booneylander

[booneylander 37]

.

Edited July 29, 2016 by booneylander

[booneylander 37]

Pics.

[tolsen 630]

Piston seal is what some call the oil seal. The seal has a piston compression ring hence called a piston seal. The compression ring is stationary whilst the groove where it sits rotates.

There is no point replacing compressor wheel on your turbo. Shaft is most likely bent and it will be impossible to balance the rotating assembly.

[HoMsEy4LiFe 0]

Hey guys, since we're talking about turbo failures I have a quick question... The plastic fitting I'm pointing to broke, and the hose has been hanging freely spraying oil all over the inside of the "trunk" and all over my rear bumper. The car hasn't suffered any performance issues and it's driving normally. My mechanic told me we can simply plug the hose since the car runs normally and the plastic fitting isn't sold separately.

All this to say, would I have any long term effects if I simply plug the hose?

Edited August 3, 2016 by HoMsEy4LiFe

[tolsen 630]

Remove actuator and glue the broken fitting back with good two pack epoxy. Car will go into limp mode due to over boost if not repaired.

[smartzuuk 167]

Thankfully the turbo in my canada1 was rebuilt (with OEM parts) as a preventative measure maybe 15,000 kms ago, or 5,000 before I got the car.....

Now to just keep that oil clean!!!

[houseofdiesel 9]

Don't leave that hose unplugged and off the wastegate, it is doing harm by overboosting. You can fix it carefully by epoxy, or find a blown turbo and use the wastegate off it, but don't run without it. If the exhaust ever fails (no restriction or back pressure on the turbo-which they do fail and break off at the manifold elbow) your turbo will explode shortly after, it will hit 40-50lbs of boost unrestricted and keep going until it fails. Not worth the risk!

[LooseLugNuts 557]

~. My mechanic told me we can simply plug the hose since the car runs normally and the plastic fitting isn't sold separately.

look for a better mechanic

[HoMsEy4LiFe 0]

Hahaha, thing is i dont know any other mechanic that specializes in smart and charges 60$/hr for labour in the Montreal area. I'm knocking on wood right now, cause since that oil started to show streaks on my back bumper I did 2 round trips to Toronto and 1 to Quebec, and I'm about to do another round trip to Toronto this weekend.

Let's hope houseofdiesel didn't jinx me!

I'll talk to mechanic again to see if he has another solution...

[LooseLugNuts 557]

the only luck ive ever had with gluing plastic fittings like that is to drill them out and use a brake line or similar tube inserted in both ends to support it internally

original gorilla glue works good ...another good adhesive for plastic and metal is windshield urethane...both require parts to be super clean

but repairability depends on where its broke of course.....

are new actuators really that expensive to risk it?