Crankshaft Sensor location

[pieterVdv 0]

I am running into a really puzzling and irritating issue. My 2005 cdi starts fine cold. Then when I stop the car, get out and then return after 10 15 minutes the car will not initiate start. Two or more blobs on the thermostat and and the car will not crank or make any effort to start. When it drops to one blob the car starts like nothing is wrong. Reading forum after forum the probable cause seems to relate to the crankcase sensor. However the cdi location is not the same as petrol and tutorials refer to petrol. I cannot locate the sensor. I have a parts car and can swap out the sensor..... when I can find it.

Tolsen you seem to have a real good grasp on cdis and your find on the article on the Smart/Mitsubishi engine was a real interesting discovery. Do you have any idea where the sensor is located and can I get to it with basic tools? Has anyone any other thoughts or experiences with this kind of problem?

Thanks again for reading this post. Obviously this is my first time. Sorry for the length.

[tolsen 630]

Engine in the 450 cdi is the OM660 made by Mercedes Benz. No Japcrap engine at all in this car.

Seems you have two unrelated problems.

Engine not turning over has nothing to do with crank sensor. Bad contact at starter solenoid is most likely cause.

Crank sensor can fail as you describe, is fairly common on this age of car and not only limited to Smart cars.

Replacing crank sensor can be a quite a pain if sensor is stuck in its bore in engine block.

Crank sensor can be seen in above image below high pressure pump.

There are more photos of its location in below thread.

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?showtopic=24428

Easier to get to on older Smarts like mine which does not have any EGR cooler. Note EGR cooler is not shown on the above image. On mine I can remove crank sensor by getting to its bolt from above. Not possible on yours unless you remove EGR cooler.

Safest and best method is dropping engine at least 10 cm to remove EGR valve and inter cooler. You then have good access to crank sensor from the side. You will also gain access to starter solenoid.

[pieterVdv 0]

Will definitely check solenoid connections first. Thanks for the quick reply. I am driving to work now will check in after work. Let you know.

[tolsen 630]

Removed my crank sensor for cleaning and inspection this morning. Got it out in seven minutes. I bet it will take 50 times longer on a Canadian Smart due to EGR cooler making access very difficult from above.

Crank sensor was last out in 2009 at which time I greased sensor bore and its retaining screw to make future removal easy.

Screw requires a T30 bit.

Removed rubber inlet ppe between EGR valve and inlet manifold.

Disconnected connector for rail pressure regulator.

Disconnected fuel return pipe.

Disconnected connector to oil pressure switch to allow sensor to be withdrawn with its connector attached.

Refitting:

Fitted first sensor on its own with screw.

Connected its connector once sensor was securely in position.

Reconnected lead to oil pressure switch.

Refitted inlet elbow, fuel return pipe and connector for rail pressure regulator.

[pieterVdv 0]

Hi Tolsen. I made a lengthy reply to your post Sunday. Obviously it did not make it to this thread. Sorry.

In summary it appears you are right and it will probably be the starter solenoid. Sunday it was cool the car had sat for 9 hours and turned the ignition.... nothing. After 30 minutes of turning keys, stepping on brake pedals and locking and unlocking the car. It started up like nothing was wrong.

So my question now is, I have a parts car of the same year, can I test that starter before I install it?

One other question. On Youtube Ahmed dropped the engine slightly by removing the left engine mount to gain clearance. Do you see any problems with that method in your experience?

[tolsen 630]

No need to change starter. Just clean spade connector on starter solenoid.

Gaining improved access by disconnecting an engine mount is something I have never tried.

[pieterVdv 0]

Spade Connector? Isn''t that buried under pipes on the starter motor?

[tolsen 630]

I can see mine from the top. Connector on cable is black plastic female. Spade connector on starter soleneoid is bare male.

Source a special wiggler tool from Canadian Tire or just use a suitable twig from the nearest tree. Wood or plastic but nothing that conducts. Prod with wiggler tool and wiggle connector. Also get a thin straw and inject penetration fluid into the connector. All possible from above without any lowering of engine.

[willc 0]

I'm having this exact issue.

Unlock to the car to get in with FOB. Lights work (interior light doesn't dim when attempting to start; from what I have read means the battery is good). radio works. immobilizer disengages with FOB; lights blink 3 times upon lock showing the FOB battery is good.

Everything checks out to be normal except it simply won't start (clicks when I turn the key, headlights turn off and back on after attempting to start which I'm told is normal).

All signs point to solenoid connection issue.

It has been a real pain as I have started dating someone out of town and on a few occasions now I have been left stuck pushing the car from one location to the next due to the city's street parking restrictions.

Is there any way of obtaining a picture of what I need to poke? I keep looking online for pictures of the location of the solenoid but all I have been able to find are tips to poke it with a ruler, stick, etc.

The next step once I get it started again it to bring it into the shop to have repaired. Need to get it started to get that far however.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
Cheers.

[tolsen 630]

Fix asap or you can soon see your date fly away.

Improve access to starter solenoid spade connector by placing rear end on axle stands. Place them under rear jacking points in door sills.

Lower subframe slightly by slacking off each of the four subframe bolts. Do one at the time and make sure there is at least five turns thread engagement.

You will then see starter solenoid and the black female cable connector.

Clean and grease connector and male spade terminal.

Of course check main earth strap from chassis to transmission.

[tolsen 630]

Note following tightening sequence for rear subframe bolts:

Front left first then front right. Either of the rear bolts last.