smart142

heat in the diesel smart

71 posts in this topic

32 minutes ago, GRP151 said:

 

In this post are you saying the petrol 450 thermostats can solve the lower heating problem in the diesel 450? Are you suggesting to install  the petrol version in lieu of the original diesel one?

Yes, will work as long as you fit an original Smart or Wahler thermostat.  Note that barb size on thermostat bypass outlet is larger diameter than on the diesel thermostat so you also need to source a suitable hose.

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Rather than replace the thermostat isn't it easier to add the restrictor plug? We machined one to fit using Tolsens dimensions and works great.

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Problem is design of check valve in thermostat closing element.  Explained in my sales add for the restrictor plug.  Also explained is how to test check valve.

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A little off topic but... I noticed in Kdubya's photo that there is an outdoor temp on the dash.

My car doesn't have that option.

 

I seem to remember there was a way to turn stuff on and off in the ECU. Automatic transmission instead of manual on startup and stuff like that.

 

Any one know how to turn that on?

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Jocko

On mine you just press the button on top of the cluster until the outside temp is displayed.  Same button as trip meter.  I don't know if it was included on all diesels or not maybe one of the more experienced member can enlighten you more.

 

Nigel

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Outside temperature sensor was only enabled on 450s with air con.  Easy to enable with WinStar.  Difficult with MB Star.

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5 hours ago, Jocko said:

A little off topic but... I noticed in Kdubya's photo that there is an outdoor temp on the dash.

My car doesn't have that option.

If your car is a normal 450 sold in Canada, it will show the outdoor temperature.  See the attached photo.  Press that button and the display will change from total accumulated distance to a trip meter to the outside temperature.  Press the button twice quickly and it will show the remaining distance until the next service is due.

Smart dash reset button.jpg

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This is what I though but no... I only get the trip meter. Mine is a rag top, so no A/C. I was hoping it was something easy but I guess not. I don't want to highjack the thread so i'll leave it there.

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Banchory Smart Centre will enable outside temperature gauge for a pint of good ale.  The only problem is distance.

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8 hours ago, Jocko said:

This is what I though but no... I only get the trip meter. Mine is a rag top, so no A/C. I was hoping it was something easy but I guess not. I don't want to highjack the thread so i'll leave it there.

My '06 is a ragtop too but it does have A/C as well.   It has the button shown in my previous post and goes through the three phases .... Total distance travelled, trip meter and outside temps.  Perhaps someone local to you with a diesel could check it out for you.  If I wasn't about 5 or 6 hours away, I might make the trip down that way myself.

 

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Hi everyone.   here in Ontario Canada, it's going to be winter soon.   I've been driving the 06 cdi cabrio daily this year and have grown to like the little car a lot.   the heat problem is raising it;'s ugly head and I need to do something about it or park it for the winter.  

what is the latest.... easiest...fix for thelack of winter heat ???

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I'd say block off the rad until the bubbles stay where you want them to. I have just purchased two new stick-on heaters for the beater , one for the oil pan and one elongated one for the front radiator fluid tank. Stick it to the bottom tank of the rad......I plan to plug it in for however many hours it takes to warm up both ends and add the rad shield and see where I go from there. I also will install a ceramic heater either in the rear cargo area facing forward between the seats or on the passager floor and have it also cooking it from the inside.......I expect that should be enough...?

 

Search on ebay or amazon and your find those stick-on oil pan heaters, they come in many sizes and pick the one for the correct oil fluid capacity and rad fluid capacity. They aren't cheap, but neither is freezing waiting for it to warm up....

 

Edited by Willys

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cold cabin is half the issue...   if we get freezing rain type weather the car can not defrost the window and it ices up !!! Can't drive it !!!

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My car has both the restrictor plug and an upgraded thermostat. Prior to those modifications, the normal operating temperature was 78-80C. It now runs at 88-91C due to the T-stat upgrade. I store the car over winter nowadays, but I'm pretty sure it would produce sufficient heat if I were to use it in winter. With regard to defrosting ... a working air conditioner is quite effective in dissipating excess humidity. Also, if the heater control is set to recirculate, humidity rapidly rises, and windows will fog up.    

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3 hours ago, atrucker said:

cold cabin is half the issue...   if we get freezing rain type weather the car can not defrost the window and it ices up !!! Can't drive it !!!

 

My solution to the cold cabin can be solved with an in-cabin heater like the "Little Buddy" installed in my '05 (see attached photo) or, failing that, a thermostatically controlled ceramic heater as Willys was suggesting.  If using the ceramic heater, I would suggest placing it on the passenger side floor and aiming it away from anything that might suffer from heat.

 

Either way, I would use a timer and set it for approximately 3 hours before you plan to use it..

 

City driving doesn't help get the car up to temperature and keep it there.  Highway driving is much better.

 

Smart Heater.jpg

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4 hours ago, atrucker said:

cold cabin is half the issue...   if we get freezing rain type weather the car can not defrost the window and it ices up !!! Can't drive it !!!

Mehtal hydrate in the water bottle should solve that issue, not recommending it, just a comment...lol
From my trucking days....repairing them that is.

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well, been test driving the car...it is 14 to15 degrees C outside.   Car would not get up to 3 blobs , only 2  !!!   so there is an indication of the extent of my problem.   Proper automotive HVAC thermometer in center vent showed 130-135 degrees F  (  about 57 degrees C ) , exactly what the heat gauge shows at 2 blobs.      I taped the upper part of the grill over with duct tape and went for a drive on the highway... no change !    maybe a few degrees warmer at vent but still only 2 blobs.

   Pulled over, and put a small towel in a heavy duty contractors garbage bag and rolled it up to then stuff it into the lower grill opening.  

   Back on the highway and a few minutes later I got 3 blobs and 140 to 145 degrees F at vent

( approx. 62 degrees C ).   

 Returning home, I have to go thru several stoplight in city traffic.   I let the car idle several minutes in the driveway and it still held 3 blobs on the heat gauge.  

  So that gives merit to the thought that the backpressure from the sstem will lock the thermostat brass bypass valve closed at temperature.  

  Keep in mind I am having a problem getting the car up to full operational temperature at on 15 degrees C ambient air temperature,.. approx. 58 to 59 degrees F  !!!  

Now that is surely a heating problem.... imagine at -30..   I have to park the smart currently when it gets that cold.   I do not want to give up on the little bugger.  If I have to take her apart and perform all the mods ….  I am going to.

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Hi Leadwing.   Thanks for the input.   I did pick up a roadpro 12 volt ceramic heater from the T/A truck stop in Woodstock.  It was on sale at a great deal so I grabbed it but haven't installed it yet...I am hesitant to work the alternator so hard.  I will hook it up for emergencies such as sudden cold spells and freezing rain.   It is 300 watts and really blows heat well.  I would like to ask if your little buddy is a diesel heater ? 

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5 hours ago, atrucker said:

cold cabin is half the issue...   if we get freezing rain type weather the car can not defrost the window and it ices up !!! Can't drive it !!!

The reason you are getting foging is because the carpets are soaking wet from the rear corner windows leaking I bet, also maybe the windshield is leaking, dust will show you if it is, or baby powder. The rear corner windows, simply remove their corner clasp and then remove the rest of the main ring that hold the window in place, you will see the water run marks through the dust between the window and the cage...I simply siliconed it inplace and my carpets haven't been wet since!  You are heating the wet air and getting condesation because of it, hense the fogging

 

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I have a 110 volt plug a few feet from the car so I could put an electric heater for pre drive warm ups...but that won't solve the problem if I go somewhere for the day and the car is to be parked all day.    It has to work well enough to keep the windshield cleared in winter. 

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3 minutes ago, atrucker said:

Hi Leadwing.   Thanks for the input.   I did pick up a roadpro 12 volt ceramic heater from the T/A truck stop in Woodstock.  It was on sale at a great deal so I grabbed it but haven't installed it yet...I am hesitant to work the alternator so hard.  I will hook it up for emergencies such as sudden cold spells and freezing rain.   It is 300 watts and really blows heat well.  I would like to ask if your little buddy is a diesel heater ? 

I'll bet his little buddy is electric 120 volts....it's the newer version of the old school in car heaters we used to have back in the day, for $15 now they demand $100

 

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Hi Willys

 Actually the problem is far worse than fogging... the windshield freezes up on the outside and the car doesn't make enough heat to melt the snow and ice off the windshield.    Fogging I could deal with,   snow and ice I can not.

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1 minute ago, atrucker said:

I have a 110 volt plug a few feet from the car so I could put an electric heater for pre drive warm ups...but that won't solve the problem if I go somewhere for the day and the car is to be parked all day.    It has to work well enough to keep the windshield cleared in winter. 

I will be doing the same before driving from home but as you say after that initial first drive we are at the nercy of the elements..lol

 

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1 minute ago, atrucker said:

Hi Willys

 Actually the problem is far worse than fogging... the windshield freezes up on the outside and the car doesn't make enough heat to melt the snow and ice off the windshield.    Fogging I could deal with,   snow and ice I can not.

Hi, does the car make heat but the air passages are plugged or something?

maybe the hose is off the tube or something?

I plan on doing the old school vinyl over whatever percentage it takes to keep the 3 bubbles lit....when driving at speed limit so to speak. I drive mostly in rural locations so start and stopping is minimal.

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I am now starting to drive with the heat on half to 3/4s, and it has heat...enough to start me thinking to turn it down a bit? I'm not sure IF Glenn did anything to this car's temp settings as in therostat or restricters? But it is working at the moment but again it's not really cold yet is it..lol.

 

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