ariveramgt

Need advice.

51 posts in this topic

Hi there.

I have Smart 450 City (2002) almond lamps.

We rebuilt the engine completely, new crankshaft sensor, new spark plugs, new fuel pump, new turbo, but car does not start, engine crank. We have spark, we have pressure fuel, and we have fuel. But won’t start, jus crank. There are no error codes. The car was park for 3 year before we overhaul the engine. The key fob is working, locking and unlocking the doors, but the battery discharge in 2 days (9 flashes). Do you think the key fob is bad even if there is not a key symbol on the dash?

Please help, we invest a lot of money on this and we haven’t started a new engine.

Thank you very much for all your help.

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Check if alternator can be turned around.  They seize up solid after sitting only a few weeks and engine won't start with seized alternator.

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Hi Tolsen, 

Thank you for your answer.

The alternator was overhaul too. The only thing that I do not have on the alternator is the cable with the diode.

Best.

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Just now, ariveramgt said:

Hi Tolsen, 

Thank you for your answer.

The alternator was overhaul too. The only thing that I do not have on the alternator is the cable with the diode. The cable is bad. Can this affect the starting procedure?

Best.

 

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9 flashes means the battery in the key fob is almost dead! Replace it (the battery in the key fob) ASAP

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Thank you.

The battery is change. But something is wrong. It drain the charge in just 2 days.

I have a New battery when I try to start the car. But no luck.

 

Do you think I need to resynk the key even if the key symbol is not on the dash? 

Best

Edited by ariveramgt

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Aftermarket cheap not working crank sensor.  Try original sensor.

 

Mine is a 2002 Cabrio.  Starter won't even turn if I attemp starting whilst key symbol is showing so keyfob draining fast is I conclude is unrelated to your no start problems.  See if fob drains fast also when its electronics is removed from key.  Perhaps a switch is sticking.

  

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Hi Tolsen 

I did that the first time, I had a cheap sensor. But then change it to an original MB sensores.

I can try a new one if you recomend to do it.

Thanks 

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I see you say you have both fuel and spark.  Check if timing is right and check compression.

If timing is ok but compression low, then wet cylinders in oil to improve compression.  Do not add more than a tablespoon per cylinder.  Have you tried starter gas?

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Hi Tolsen

Timing marks double check.

Compression test show 9 bar on all cilinders.

I will try wiht oil on it and try to start, Yes I try starter gas, but I do not know if my prcedure was correct.

The car seems to backfire a litle bit. But timing is correct. I do not know if air mixture is correct. 

 

Do you think 9 bar are to low for compression? 

 

I will let you know.

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9 bar sure sounds low

 

 

edit :for a diesel...should be just fine for a gasser

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Normal compression reading on these engines is 12 bar.  I have seen low compression readings on newly rebuilt engines before especially if assembled dry with no oil on piston rings and cylinders.  Good the compression readings are same on each cylinder. 

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Hi to all

 

So do you think the 9bar is bad.

Should I need to open the engine to rectify the cylinders?

 

You do think with 9 bar the engine will not start?

 

Or should I try to start with a spoon of oil on the cylinders?

 

Thanks 

Edited by ariveramgt

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Hi

I did timing as per FQ101

We try too 180 change to see results, but did not start too. So we change it back.

I have some doubts about the throtle full open when we did the compression test.

I know throtle body is working properly.

 

I will try tomorrow to start with spoon of oil on cylinders.

 

Or if you have any other suggestion is welcome. 

Best

 

Edited by ariveramgt

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when you mention 180 that sounds like ignition timing...did you have the engine completely apart?...did you double check the cam timing/timing chain placement? 

 

just a couple teeth off will cause low compression readings and a spit/sputter no start condition

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Hi.

Yes we doble check cam timing.

Yes we Take the entiry motor apart.

We could check the ingnition and cam timing aggain 

 

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Timing can't be far out since I have heard no mention of valves hitting pistons. 

 

Checking timing on the M160 engine takes only minutes. 

Turn engine until timing mark on crank shaft pulley lines up with mark on timing chain cover. Arrow on cam shaft sprocket should then be pointing vertically up or down. Can be viewed by first removing the 710 part. 

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Timing Mark on cranshaft pulley lines with Mark on timing change cover check.

Arrow on cam shaft sprocket pointing vertically up check. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by ariveramgt

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