airbak2

cold and warm starting problems

8 posts in this topic

My 06 Smart CDI is having trouble starting when engine is cold no matter what the outside temp is... plugged in or not.  Almost seems to start better when its colder -10C or colder ??   Takes a few times to finally start but the very odd time it will fire up not to bad. Its getting worse too.... It kinda smokes a wee bit, runs a bit rough, but seems to run perfect after a minute or 2.  There is a idle surge that happens as well 900RPM down to 700RPM and back up again... not all the time but often enough.  Once I start driving she runs perfect. I have a 15 min commute and cruze at 120k.   Turn it off hot .. and start it again with no problems... fires right up on 1 crank.  The idle surge will often come up as I mentioned.   Leave it for 20 and it has a hard time starting all over again..    I have changed the glow plugs, and fuel filter as well as ran a lot of fuel additive with no luck.  Fuel pump runs before start up as well. I pulled the EGR valve cartridge out and cleaned it.. but put it in as suggested to block the exhaust gas from coming through.  I have looked through the forums but can not find anything specific.  Did come across a suggestion that could be a air leak somewhere, so when its cold the leak would be larger than when it is hot, which is why the good hot starts...  Any suggestions ... Thank You...

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Could be worn injectors having too much leak back possibly due to running on third world fuel or bio fuel.   

Results in hard start when cold because less fuel is being injected due to the high leak back. Also hard start when hot because fuel is then rather thin causing more leak back. 

Test by measuring fuel leak back on engine tick over. 

Edited by tolsen

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Also check rail pressure when cranking to start and on engine idle. Must use diagnostics to read pressure. Never use gauge as fuel pressures are far too high in common rail engines.  

Edited by tolsen

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I was having the same issue with the surging at idle (700-900 rpm). Rail pressure was quite low on #1. When swapping it out, Uncle Glenn noticed that the gasket was slightly distorted. Replaced the gasket and all 3 smoothed out perfectly. 

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I think he is referring to the copper fire washer seal at bottom of injector housing. 

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12 minutes ago, tolsen said:

I think he is referring to the copper fire washer seal at bottom of injector housing. 

 

Yes, sorry I should have been more specific. Tolsen is correct. The copper washer was "oddly" crushed.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On ‎4‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 0:14 AM, tolsen said:

Could be worn injectors having too much leak back possibly due to running on third world fuel or bio fuel.   

Results in hard start when cold because less fuel is being injected due to the high leak back. Also hard start when hot because fuel is then rather thin causing more leak back. 

Test by measuring fuel leak back on engine tick over. 

Yes no Bio-Diesel and most definitely not third world either :) ... Co-op Diesel from our canadian refinery up the road. 

If the engine is HOT like immediate or 15 minutes has passed it starts like a top... However 30 minutes it coughs and sputters and sometimes times out, but does start. 

Thank you all so much for responding...   I want to add It wants to start and sounds like it is just about too.  Not a turning over and over and no firing.  I hate the thought of injectors they are a lot of money :(   

Edited by airbak2

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