dream19

Engine or gearbox issues

12 posts in this topic

Posted (edited) · Report post

Hello all!

My Smart sat idle in my garage for about a year and a half, until i could find a proper electrician to fix my broken SAM unit. After, finally, i 've brought it back home i noticed that the gearbox often fails to automatically up-shift and have to "help" it manually. When it fails to shift, i notice that the engine is revving but seems it needs a few more RPMs to shift. Also when trying to rev it out of gear, it only reaches ~3200 RPM, and the accelerator pedal is "dead" in the upper half. It is true that i don't quite remember how much RPMs i was getting about a year ago before the electrical problems. So, my questions are as follows:

1. How much RPMs do your CDIs get when revved while stationary (and in neutral, of course) ?

2. Is it more likely to be a gearbox issue or engine one? 

I must mention that the engine seems to run as smooth as ever with no black smoke or rough starts. Also the gearbox works perfectly in manual mode.

 

LE: Sorry if/for posting in the wrong subcategory. Only now i've observed it's an area for mdifications

Edited by dream19

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Engine is in limp mode to protect itself.  Check for fault codes.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It sounds to me as though you may have a stuck wastegate actuator. The car could be going into "limp" mode because of over-boost due to the stuck actuator, making the car drive normally at lower RPM and seem dead at higher RPM and causing the shifting issues in automatic mode.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

I understand.

So i need an OBD reader to find out more. But, if there are some error codes registered, shouldn't the engine warning light be lit in the dashboard?

Edited by dream19

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you or your answers!

I'll do an error code scanning and hopefully have a starting point on what to do next.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

So, I bought a cheap-ish OBD2 scanner and did a test. It seems there are no stored error codes, buuuut one of the gauges shows and peaks at 3 psi turbo boost at 3280 RPM (and the same gauge shows 1.87 in/HG VACUUM at idle). The throttle peaks at 3280 RPM.

Any opinions regarding this new data?

Edited by dream19
Added 1.87 value explanation

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for your answers!

Is there a simple way of checking/fixing that valve without taking it to a garage?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, you will need to remove the rear bumper cover, and the rear crash bar, so that you can gain access to service the wastegate actuator rod/flap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

the one thing a smart knows is to corrode while it sits alternators are a real problem to seize while not being used making it look like the engine is seized 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

    Chatbox
    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More