NFB

Noisy Tappets or valve lifters

22 posts in this topic

My 2006 CDi runs great!  It has lots of power and has no problem starting.

Except the tappets are noisy. Mind you it has 228K.  I'm thinking of a solution without having to replace them.

I was going to use Sea Foam to perhaps loosen them, (thinking they are collapsed and hence the reason for the noise) or try Liqui-Moly Tappet Stop Noise which claims to dampens the noise caused by worn hydraulic lifters/tappets. But I cannot find any here to buy in Toronto.

Any suggestions?

 

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Excellent suggestion. If one fails you are in for a world of hurt.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

they arent cheap here...at least they werent when i needed some and had to bother someone from europe to send me some (which are still working fine)

 

i changed mine because they seemed awful easy to squeeze down manually but a few were really hard to leak down 

 

 

rislone works well if youre thinking of trying something before doing a replacement ...old mechanics swear by it and it should be easy to find at crappy tire or wallyworld

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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20 hours ago, tolsen said:

Tappets are cheap so why not replace them?

 

How long does it take you to replace them?  

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12 hours ago, smart142 said:

Excellent suggestion. If one fails you are in for a world of hurt.

Not sure what that means, if one fails? Can it break apart or ?

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Keeping on driving with failing tappets can damage followers, cam shaft and cylinder head, even the whole engine so not particularly smart. 

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On ‎7‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 2:11 PM, tolsen said:

Keeping on driving with failing tappets can damage followers, cam shaft and cylinder head, even the whole engine so not particularly smart. 

 

How long does it take you to replace them Tolsen?  

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What the average lfe expectancy of lifters in terms of km? And don't say when their noisy!

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Their life should be the same as the engine as a whole, or a minimum of 5000 hours, with regular oil changes using top drawer synthetic oil.  One of my smarts was at about 250K km and they were fine.  Another I know of had over 300,000 km on its remapped engine and they were fine too.  both cars were written off in collisions.

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But I've seen failures at 200k - not sure of maintenance history though.

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My '05 had regular, on-time service right thru extended warranty period by local MB dealer.

At 80,000 km a rocker are broke taking out the lifter, the valve, the piston, the engine and the turbo (due to debris).

Repair cost almost $12,000 in parts and labour (new engine and turbo).  I got away for $2K.

Dealer said mine was not the first 450 they'd seen with this problem.

Why do they cheap out on a part like this?  I'm sure it and other parts met engineering specs, but by how much?

These things always comes back to bite them in the ass sooner or later.

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On ‎7‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 10:09 AM, tolsen said:

Tappets are cheap so why not replace them?

How long does it take you to replace them Tolsen?   Still waiting for a reply, since you suggested, 'simply' to replace them.

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camshaft has to come out ...i cant remember if that can be done without taking off the whole side timing cover

 

it probably is simple for him since he's already had everything apart multiple times 

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Rear body panels and aluminium bumper must come off, engine subframe must be dropped sufficiently to provide access, rhs rear road wheel must come off together with plastic wheel  arch, vacuum pump must come off, timing chain sprocket on cam shaft can then be disconnected and tied up so timing is not lost.  EGR valve and connected hoses must come off. High pressure pump must be disconnected from cam shaft.  Rocker cover must come off.  Cam shaft comes out as already stated by LooseLugNuts.  Will easily take a good day or more.

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What would someone expect to pay for that service at a private shop? Any ideas of the range?

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If the tappets are failing - possibly due to poor maintenance (too few oil changes), there are so many other things that can be wrong with the engine that it'd be best to get a whole replacement engine with low km and go from there.

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I would start by measuring oil

pressure to confirm the noise is not caused by low oil pressure due to failing oil pump sprocket. 

I would also replace timing chain once at it. You can then inspect oil pump drive and check if still OK.  Oil sump must come off to remove timing chain cover so why not modify sump by adding oil drain plug?

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12 hours ago, tolsen said:

I would start by measuring oil

pressure to confirm the noise is not caused by low oil pressure due to failing oil pump sprocket. 

I would also replace timing chain once at it. You can then inspect oil pump drive and check if still OK.  Oil sump must come off to remove timing chain cover so why not modify sump by adding oil drain plug?

What is the easiest way to check oil pressure?

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36 minutes ago, NFB said:

What is the easiest way to check oil pressure?

Remove oil pressure switch and connect a pressure gauge. Pressure at idle around 3.5 bar.  Should rise to about 4 - 4.5 bar when revving engine.  There is a built in pressure relief valve so pressure will not rise much above 4.5 bar.

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I have a special oil pressure gauge kit. Comes with gauge, 90 degree adapter and the most common screw fittings. 

IMG_1426.jpg

Kit can be sourced for as little as $1.50 each if you buy 100 kits. 

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Well I think I'll try Sea Foam in the oil and fuel 1st perhaps my problem is sticky lifters,(wishful thinking) worse case scenario it will clean out a lot of carbon.

I'll double up the oil with lucas synthetic oil stabilizer, then assess the situation. 

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