Jocko

No Boost - No leaks, No codes

55 posts in this topic

No control of documentation and change. Possible costly permanent damage to engine control unit. 

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15 hours ago, tolsen said:

No control of documentation and change. Possible costly permanent damage to engine control unit. 

 

That's why I would rather clean the EGR and rotate it around to avoid damaging the ECU.

 

I wonder if MB designed it that way to easily disable the functionality of the EGR by simply rotating the valve?

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EGR valve is a Pierburg design. You already should know, dealer mechanics only replace components hoping for the best. Our type of EGR valve can normally block EGR gas regardless of car manufacturer simply by turning the insert a certain angle so nothing to do with Mercedes.

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15 hours ago, tolsen said:

EGR valve is a Pierburg design. You already should know, dealer mechanics only replace components hoping for the best. Our type of EGR valve can normally block EGR gas regardless of car manufacturer simply by turning the insert a certain angle so nothing to do with Mercedes.

 

Well this is my second year of owning diesel vehicles. So what ever I have learned has been basically trial and error and reading from the forums. Thanks for the update on who's design this is from.

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So its Good News - Bad News

 

Good News is - no damage to the car. I wired the Emulator properly and have no codes. The car starts and runs fine.

 

Bad News is- The car runs the same as before in Limp Home Mode. So I think it's safe to rule out the EGR.

 

Next is to do another boost test to see if I have a leak somewhere. Maybe a weak hose with a pin hole or cut in it somewhere. I had done a quick check once before and didn't find anything. I'll do a more thorough inspection this time and while I'm at it I may spin the valve like recommended or delete the EGR all together.

 

I'll keep you posted.

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The one that just plugs straight into the harness...yes I still do that. If you want, I can just email you the STL file and anybody with a 3D printer can make you the plug, and you can solder your own electronics. If there's a place to post the file on CsC, I can just post it here.

 

You can find the files here too.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:588717

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:502182

Edited by stickman007

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16 hours ago, tolsen said:

Are you still making the plugs?

 

 

On 11/22/2016 at 6:13 PM, tolsen said:

 

My advice is forget and bin those emulators, clean up your EGR valve and just blank off exhaust supply to the valve.

 

======================================================

 

HUH???????

 

Edited by smartdriver

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5 hours ago, smartdriver said:

 

 

On 11/22/2016 at 6:13 PM, tolsen said:

 

My advice is forget and bin those emulators, clean up your EGR valve and just blank off exhaust supply to the valve.

 

======================================================

 

HUH???????

 

That is how my set up has been since 2002. Has been very reliable. 

Still wish to try emulator to gain space for oil catch can. 

Many thanks to Stickman for providing circuit diagram and plug CAD file. 

Will have the plug printed locally for free by a company where I maintain machinery. Assume I also need male terminal pins. What is the spec for them and where to source?

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1 minute ago, tolsen said:

Assume I also need male terminal pins. What is the spec for them and where to source?

 

After building a number of these for my cars and spending $40 each time for a Mercedes plug and cable, for the last one I used some number 10 gauge household wiring, stripped off the insulation and made my own pins.

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@Tolsen - these pins will work https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-10-12020116-Delphi-Metri-Pack-Male-280-Series-Terminal-Crimp-30A-NOS-/190926881269. These were little bigger than the original design, but all I had to do was to heat up the pins a little bit, and it slid right in. If you can't source those pins, just give me the dimensions of the ones that you can get, and I can alter the design of the plug. You've given so much insights and help on this forum that I don't mind doing that for you! Also if you have any design input, please pm me and I can make those changes.

 

Sorry for highjacking the thread!

 

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I’ve been viewing the STL files with stl viewer on iPhone. It appears the terminal slots are wrong. Viewing from female end the slots appear centred. Viewing from other end the slots appear too far to the side. 

 

Edit.  Checked the same file on an online viewer using PC and it looks fine.   https://www.viewstl.com

Must therefore be a problem with the stl viewer I installed on my iPhone.

 

Have now sent the files to the nearest print shop.

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Freshly printed:

 

1DA54D95-A403-4AB3-B3B7-0716CD195B90.jpg

 

A17FF544-3A38-4DC0-80B4-05B8E8A336C3.jpg

 

i would have preferred green but white was all they had.   Now need to source suitable terminals. 

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The Delphi Metri-Pack 280 male terminals are rather expensive.  I can source 100 for £13.80 from RS Components.  £5 for 10 on eBay.  Both include free shipping.

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Hey guys!

Meanwhile back at the ranch...

 

For the record - I'm with Tolson on the emulator. I just blanked off my exhaust supply to the valve years ago and have not had problems since. I just wanted the emulator to rule out a faulty EGR unit.

 

I think Smart142 is right and its the damned turbo. I redid the boost leak test and it sounds like the turbo is leaking. Probably the seals near the bearings. This is why I get some boost but as the pressure increases it bleeds off.

Mileage is 170k

How have others made out with the turbo swap?  Do I get it done or give it a whack myself? I'm pretty well equipped but no torches.

With the bumper off it looks pretty straight ahead but I found a guy who quoted me 4 hrs. to do the job and it sounds tempting.

 

I've seen 2 ways to do this. One is to remove just the turbo unit and just swap out the core via the big C clip and the other is to take the whole exhaust manifold and replace the whole unit - manifold, WG and turbo.

I was going to do the "remove only the turbo" way.

What are the odds that I break any or all of the 3 bolts holding the turbo on the manifold?

This is my main concern and why I don't want to remove the exhaust manifold. I'm sure to break at least a few studs in the engine block and have to go fishing to get them out.

The muffler bolts are a given. They only break off. All the bolts have been soaking in penetrating fluid but still experience has taught me.

 

I have a supplier near me  - Turboms.com - and they can provide a rebuilt turbo the next day. They can provide the core or the whole setup with the manifold.

Another member recommended them and they look legit.

 

Opinions are welcome. Any gotchas I should know about?

The oil lines look OK but should I replace them anyway while I'm at it?

 

Thanks

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Use oxy acetylene to heat nuts. Then even the most stubborn nut or bolt will come apart in one piece. 

Take the manifold to a turbo work shop as tricky to split turbo from manifold yourself. 

Oil pipes probably need replacement or repair. 

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9 hours ago, Jocko said:

 

How have others made out with the turbo swap?  Do I get it done or give it a whack myself? I'm pretty well equipped but no torches.

 

What are the odds that I break any or all of the 3 bolts holding the turbo on the manifold?

This is my main concern and why I don't want to remove the exhaust manifold. I'm sure to break at least a few studs in the engine block and have to go fishing to get them out.

 

I've done a few turbo swaps, I'm sure you can do it.

Actually there are 7 nuts that hold the turbo to the manifold. You could use a small hand held torch to provide some heat.

If the nuts deform or are cut off, and once the turbo is removed, it makes the studs easier to access and remove.

I would definitely replace the smaller feed line to the turbo.

Have you considered a rebuilt turbo from Cherry? - he provides quality rebuilds.

Good luck!

 

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Terminal pins finally arrived this morning. Got the gadget assembled and ready for virgin test. 

DBBBA34_E-385_B-48_DE-889_B-6_E2446_B7_A

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Tried it and seems to work.  

No smoke, no fire and no check engine light. 

Question:  What glue is recommended to bond the two halves together. 

3_CE09_B8_E-48_B9-4105-8531-_AD24_DF176_

 

The pins were a perfect fit.  No need to file, cut or heat.  

Edited by tolsen
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I notice that this circuit uses an integrated circuit, likely an op-amp, instead of the discrete transistors in my original circuit.

 

One caveat.

 

This circuit appears to use an Electrolytic capacitor (the large cylindrical black object) which can freeze and make the circuit inoperable under very cold conditions.

 

It would be worthwhile using a Tantalum capacitor instead of an Electrolytic because of its better extreme cold weather performance. Something to consider changing for anyone using this circuit in an extremely cold environment.

Edited by smartdriver

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