Full EGR Delete

10 posts in this topic

Decided to document the process of a full EGR delete since I had to replace the turbo on my school's smart car. (*Many thanks to smart142 for giving an used turbo and TIK pipe for almost nothing).


Still need to sort through all the pictures and identity the tools necessary...this thread will be continually edited and modified. Guess when its finalized and fixed by all the gurus then we can put it in the wiki.


*Do this at your own risk! I do not take responsibility for your success, failure, or injury!

*I did not discover/invent any of these techniques, all found on this forum by other dedicated members

*If there are any mistakes or information to add, please post below and I will edit the process as I continue


1) Remove rear bumper (7 bolts all together...if you can't get past this step, please do not continue)



2) Remove the rear aluminum crash bar (6 bolts, 3 on each side, there's also 2 aluminum plates the is sandwiched between the subframe and the crash car). But in the picture, my setup is different as I have a hitch.


3) Remove muffler (2 bolts under the exhaust strap, 2 nuts on the retaining clamp)



4) Removed "X" frame (2 bolts under the subframe, 2 bolts/nuts connecting to the end of the "U" tube). Though this part may not be necessary for the EGR delete, I removed it anyways since I was swapping the turbo.




5) Remove the TIK pipe (2 clamps, one connected to the air box, the other to the turbo). Disconnect the PCV tube on the top (pops off easily).


6) Remove lower rubber intake pipe (1 screw type spring clamp connected to the output side of the intercooler, the other is a wire clip style connected to the EGR body)




7) Remove the 2 bolts that connects the EGR cooler to the EGR body. Very difficult to use etorx sockets due to its position, I used a 1/4" wrench/socket and it fits perfectly (luckily did not strip). There's a thin metal gasket that fits between the 2 gap. Picture shows the bolt on the lower side.



8) At this point, I opted to lower the engine to give me access to the front side where the thermostat is located. This step is necessary if you plan to remove the EGR cooler system. I started by using a piece of wood board and jack to support the base of the engine. Once the weight of the engine is supported, I removed 2 bolts located on the right side of the engine that holds the engine mount to the subframe. I slowly lower the jack while watching the right side of the engine. In past experiences, the vacuum line (right top of the engine) usually will hit the frame eventually, you can disconnect the vacuum line before hand to lower the engine slightly more.





9) With the engine lowered, I was able to gain access to the coolant hoses. To clarify, the 1st picture below shows the coolant route of the EGR cooler (after it was removed completely). The "U' shaped end of the hose goes into the thermostat, and the other end (where I cut) goes under the car and eventually to the heater core. When cutting the coolant hose, make sure there's enough left to connect to the thermostat. The diameter of the remaining hose is smaller than the opening of the thermostat, some members opted to use an adaptor, but I stretch it to fit, very tight, it will work and haven't seen any failures yet.





10) Connect the remaining hose to the thermostat, tighten with a stainless hose clamp. *Triple check the length of the the coolant hose, if it is too short, then tension will be on the hose and will eventually break, but if its too long, it will pitch and coolant flow will be impeded. My advice is to leave a bit extra when making the 1st cut, then take little bits off until you get the perfect length.



11) Unbolt the other end of the EGR cooler (2 bolts at the flange with a metal gasket in between, 5mm hex). The picture shows the top bolt holding the EGR cooler to the turbo manifold.



12) With the EGR cooler system completely removed, the intercooler fan can now be easily removed (plastic clip on the top, pull the top towards you and then slide the fan assembly up). Sorry, picture did not show top clip.



13) With the fan assembly removed, the EGR body can be accessed from different angles. Remove the top rubber intake hose (2 clamps, one connects to the EGR body, the other to the intake manifold). Remove the bolts holding the EGR body, unplug the EGR harness, remove the EGR body.




14) With the EGR body removed, there is another lower bracket that can be removed (3 bolts). It is not necessary to remove, but it provides easier access to the engine in the future. The engine ground cable is also attached to this bracket. The cable can be relocated to bolt directly to the transmission housing directly (a shorter bolt will be required).






15) Carefully, remove the metal fitting on the lower elbow hose. I used a cutting wheel, and then using a piler to peel the metal off.





16) Reassemble the intake elbow to the EGR bypass pipe (another thread on how to make one) and upper rubber intake hose using clamps.




17) Will need to fabricate a block plate for the turbo manifold, (different members had different ways of doing this). I ended up cutting the EGR cooler flange, reused the metal gasket (cleaning all the surfaces), and also adding a aluminum plate (overkill, but I had it a piece laying around), (using the excess bolts which were slightly longer than the original, I blocked the exhaust gas port from the manifold.






18) Almost done! Before you bolt the engine back in place, go to the front of the car and top up the coolant reservoir. Then remove the coolant temperature sensor via a metal spring clip (on the top side of the thermostat), listen for the "gurgling" sound as the air is being purged from the coolant system. Put the sensor back in as soon as the coolant starts to gush out of the hole! This bleeding process is important every time the coolant system is opened up, (will prevent over heating issues). Tip: thread the spring clip with the end of a long ziptie so not to loose the clip. Trust me, its very easy for it to just pop out of your hand and into the abyss! Go back and make sure the coolant reservoir is at the proper level.


19) Everything else should be reverse when putting back together! Make sure you have an EGR emulator or have the EGR function tuned out of your car otherwise you WILL go into limp mode and engine light.


Torque Spec: (I don't have all of the official specs)

Engine Mount to Subframe: 58Nm

X-frame to Subframe: ?Nm

X-frame to the end of "U" tube: 100Nm

Exhaust bracket into Transmission: 23Nm

Exhaust nuts to manifold: 30Nm







Edited by stickman007
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Do you get any codes from doing this? 


Is there really any benefit to doing this other than potentially removing soot in your engine? 

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The PROS and CONS are pretty much discussed to death here on the forum...


The jus of it is:

PROS - more access room to the engine, eliminate potential rubbing of hoses

CONS - requires emulator or tuned out


You don't need to do any kind of delete to prevent soot. Cleaning your EGR valve, or rotating the cartridge 180, or block plate will do just fine.

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I've just ordered a blanking plate and egr emulator off of ebay. 


Does anyone know the inner diameter of the egr cooler hoses being removed? I'd rather just order some silicon caps and be done with it :).

Wish I checked when I changed my thermostat... 


And don't suppose you could lend a guy your beading tool or fabricate me a pipe for a few $ :)

Edited by kelaog

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Its been awhile...haven't checked up on the thread.


kelaog - sorry for the late response! If you're more than welcome to borrow any of my Smart car tools. PM me if you need anything. I made a beading tool with a pair of vice grip, washer, and U-clamp, (the instructions are on a thread somewhere here on the forum). I might be able to make you a pipe...I'm sure I have left overs somewhere.


BeckyLou - I made the emulator and the bypass pipe. If you want a kit or for me to install, PM me for details.

Edited by stickman007

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Hi,  i am going to try to do this to my 2006.   (since i have to drop the engine to change the starter anyway)

is there anything i should watch out for?  and will my smart run ok without the emulator?    (just until i get one anyway)

thanks for any advice you may offer.  

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The emulator is easy to make up yourself, that is IF you can get the parts required near you.   I bought enough to make 3 and didn't like the first one so chucked it, didn't see if it worked just didn't like it's too tight layout, things looked like they could shortout maybe one day. So I made it on a larger scale compared to Stickman007's microscopic version!  Maybe slightly bigger than a toonie, where as mine is the size of a pack of  There is plenty of room to put 10 of them in there without the EGR, so  no worries.  I also left my heater hoses original length until I know it works correctly so I could easily reinstall it and be able to reattach hoses without having to repair them etc etc. BUT I expect IF you block off the exhaust port as Tolsen suggests may not require the heater or coolant hoses routed to supply coolant arounf that hose.  I'll let Tolsen interject about up a new word maybe?

I don't expect it'll like running without the emulator, I don't know? Again Tolsen....?

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@Sydney you will be in limp mode (can't rev past 3k, and engine is gutless) if you don't have the emulator. As Wilys pointed out, its easy to make and the schematics for the emulator is found here on the CsC wiki section.


Good Luck!

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