GRP151

No Start! Battery full,immobizer responds, gauges are active!

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I had the alternator belt snap and towed the car home about 2 months ago.I installed a new belt and it was running great.

 

Parked the car in the garage for the last few weeks. Went for a qucik spin today and ran good. Turn the car off in front of the garage and that was it! Had to push it in.( up a hill)

 

No starter activity, no clicking sound, nothing at all. Similar situation as if trying to start in gear,  dash indcator for gear position shows correctly.

 

Does anyone know if there is a fuse for the starter? If not, could it be the solenoid start wire or solenoid itself?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

   

Edited by GRP151

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I'm certain that others with more experience will chime in, but it is my understanding that the solenoid has a push on connector which can get corroded. If this is NOT the problem, the car can likely be started with a STAR machine connected to the OBD2 port.

 

The SAM also has a key switch position 2 input, which can be damaged by water intrusion and corrosion on the SAM connectors and printed circuit board.

 

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/30960-2006-smart-car-wont-start/

 

http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/30738-no-start-smart/#comment-348563

 

SAM Starter.jpg

Edited by smartdriver
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Thank you Smartdriver,

I will take a look at the SAM unit and see if there is power coming out of PIN 33 (blue/grey lead) from output connector N11-8

 

Cheers!

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Not Pin 33. Key Position 2 is on Pin 38.

 

Checking the voltage on Pin 38 of the cable harness will only indicate that you have a good key switch.

 

Pin 38 is an input from the key switch to the SAM and will not confirm that there is water damage in the SAM or a corroded starter solenoid connection.

 

The SAM output to the starter solenoid is on connector N11-6 Pin 1.

 

Measuring the voltage there when starting the car would determine if the SAM is OK or if it is starter related. 

 

SAMconfig.jpg.309a16031143e428aa257aa6420981ae.jpg

Edited by smartdriver

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I lowered the motor, cleaned all the ground connections, removed the alternator and A/C pump, cleaned the alternator (power washed painted and lubricated) and thoroughly cleaned the contacts, then I manually energized the solenoid with an external battery to check it.and It worked fine! Thinking it is a wiring issue or a problem in the SAM unit I traced back the thick solid light blue wire from the solenoid up to the harness above the motor. I was planning to cut this wire and interrupt it with a manual start switch but as I reconnected the battery  turned the key to start, it engaged!

After doing all this work I have no idea what exactly was the problem. Was it the ... contact on the solenoid?(it didn't look corroded) ...The wiring through the alternator?... The cleaning of the ground wires?

Either way now that I have identified the solenoid wire from the starter from above the engine I can always energize the lead from here to isolate the problem area.

Oh, I noticed the alternator protection shield was not installed by the previous mechanic. I made a better one that covers the pulley also. The amount of corrosion from road salt and crap that builds up on the alternator from road pollution does reduce the life of the alternator. 

So far I have replaced 4 alternators on different cars that have cracked aluminum casing and seized rotor assembly into the Stator. What an engineering fiasco!

I wouldn't be surprised if the MB auto mechanic who replaced the alternator (from a copy of an Invoice from the previous owner) purposely left the cover off after replacing the alternator.

After all they charged the previous owner $1250.00 to replace a rebuilt alternator!

Edited by GRP151
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My car doesnt have an alternator cover on the bottom of the car. Im going to spray the underside with gloss rust paint before winter hits to protect all the metal parts. I will drive in slush a lot so i guess i should buy/make an alternator protector. Well done with the fix, sounded like a pain.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

On 9/29/2017 at 1:49 PM, RobCDI said:

My car doesnt have an alternator cover on the bottom of the car. Im going to spray the underside with gloss rust paint before winter hits to protect all the metal parts. I will drive in slush a lot so i guess i should buy/make an alternator protector. Well done with the fix, sounded like a pain.

 

 

Painting the alternator is only part of a solution. The real problem is the clearance from the rotor and stator from time of manufacturing. I'm not sure how many thousands of an inch it is but it is very tight. The slightest increase in growth from rusting causes it to seize tight. Spraying WD40 or Wurth HHS 2000 or  Rost Off

 

http://www.wurthusa.com/web/en/website/produkte_1/chemicals/lubricants/lubricants.php  

 

maybe a solution inside the rotor and stator. But an improved shield design will reduce if not eliminate the reduction of winter road salt water.

The deadliest poison to all Smart cars!! 

It accelerates corrosion mechanically and electrically.

That is why I spray the entire underside metal and electrical connections with used engine Diesel oil  and WD40 mix, the high carbon deposits (soot) in the diesel oil give its retention. It works well so far.

There have been some idiotic comments regarding the oil smell which I find laughable but that's how most people think inside a box.

Edited by GRP151
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8 hours ago, tolsen said:

Your Smart surely stinks!

And that my friend is why he posted that comment!

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