stickman007

No communication with ESP Module, 3 bars of death - SOLVED

47 posts in this topic

2 hours ago, tolsen said:

I thought you asked what was the cause for the 3 bars of death.

 

Read Post 15 and 16 sequentially , no hopping around.

 

Correct communication is the key to correct solutions, at least that is what I have found. 

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10 minutes ago, smart142 said:

 

My understanding is that DRLs are not mandatory in Europe.

To meet the standard here they opted for full headlights all the time. This burns out bulbs and the pin in the SAM.

The Euro turn signal mod frees up the fog light position allowing fog lights to be added or DRLs.

 

Interesting. How would you be able to switch back and forth from a fog light position to DRL?

I'm not quite sure what this part of your post means..."The Euro turn signal mod frees up the fog light position allowing fog lights to be added or DRLs."

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Posted (edited) · Report post

He means if you return the turn signals to the headlight housing as they are in Europe, you can use the "Canadian" turn signal housing in the grille, with an LED bulb (or whatever) as your daytime running lights, or replace them with fog lights or a different DRL light/housing.

Edited by booneylander

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Thanks for the clarification. More info here......

 

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2 hours ago, booneylander said:

He means if you return the turn signals to the headlight housing as they are in Europe, you can use the "Canadian" turn signal housing in the grille, with an LED bulb (or whatever) as your daytime running lights, or replace them with fog lights or a different DRL light/housing.

 

Now I'm really confused !!!

What does ......"return the turn signals to the headlight housing" mean???

 

I suppose when there are pictures loaded (that are now missing) this kind of conversation makes sense, but at this moment I have no clue what your trying to say here?

 

I suspect your talking about substituting fog lights in the front grill where the signals are and then somehow magically turn them on and off with your headlight switch that is controlled by the DRL??And then not having running lights???  Is that the gist of it?

 

Anyway I think we're getting way off topic here at stickmans post regarding his 3 bars of death and his no start issue.

 

 

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Thanks for the info with regards to the DRL and fog.

 

BUT....back to the 3 bar issue.

 

I did a bit of brainstorming and it came to me that the no communication with ESP might be a separate issue. Similarly to what I noticed on GRP151's pics of DAS quick menu, due to a different SAM unit installed, the ECU may simply be not coded for the ESP for the given year (2 style for ESP system depending on manufacturing date). Besides, GRP151 was able to clear the 3 bar even without the communication with ESP - so therefore I will continue to focus on the 3 bars for now.

 

I did a bit of back to the basics approach. I had a hunch that no power was getting to the gear motor nor the actuator. Naturally I checked the fuse 30 which was good. I took a test light to confirm that power was there on each post of the fuse. The next, I moved to the N11-4 pin2 to see if power was going through and to my surprise, no power (with ignition 1)! So something is telling the SAM that it was not okay to send power to to the entire gear system (not good news, but finally a direct clue to the problem). As I started testing different possible transmission related wires, I came across N11-2 pin7 wire (blue) that was suppose to be constant live according to evilution's SAM pinout. As soon as I use my test light to check for voltage, not only did the light came on, but I heard a relay clicked. To confirm my suspicion that the ECU was somehow not letting the SAM turn on transmission relay, i checked for the continuity of N11-2 pin7, which is suppose to be directly connected to the ECU pin111 (still not sure which is which on the connector), but I tested every single blue wire and did not get continuity. Could this be my the cause of my problem? A simple broken/shorted wire?

 

I will try to do a bit more research and maybe brave enough to jump the "blue" wire directly and see if problem will be solve.

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SOLVED!

 

So, it was the N11-2 pin7 wire that caused my 3 bar of death. I do not think this has been ever been recorded anywhere.

Basically the wire that the ECU grounds to turn on the gear system was broken, resulting in the ECU thinking that something is wrong with the transmission because it won't "work" when it tries to "move" components.

 

Here's the logic to the problem.

1) I knew that the SAM contained a gear system relay

2) if N11-4 pin2 does not receive power even if fuse 30 is good, then it must be the relay not turning on

3) started testing all the gear system related wires and found that N11-2 pin7 that was suppose to be constant live turns the gear system relay on in the SAM

4) confirm that there is no continuity from N11-2 pin7 to ECU pin111

5) connect a wire directly from N11-2 pin7 to ECU pin111

6) teach-in transmission adaptation

7) teach-in clutch actuator

8) no more 3 bar on display

 

Resources:

Evilution's 700cc ECU pinout

FQ101's SAM pinout (I found it better than Evilution)

Found this diagram online to confirm ECU pin number:

aan.jpg

 

I still haven't located the actual break point in the wire, but at least the 3 bar is solved for now and car is running.

 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Well done!

That is so weird how the wire from the ECU pin 111 would have a break in it as it is tightly wrapped from the ECU to the underside of the dash to the SAM unit.

Did you run another wire from under the floor to the SAM or did you end up removing the seats and carpet to run the new wire?

How did you make the connection into the ECU with the new wire?

pin 111.png

Edited by GRP151

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I haven't tidy up anything yet. Just basically jumped the wire by opening the sheath carefully with an utility knife on either side.

 

In the past, I will just remove the pin, solder the new wire in, shrink tube the area, reinsert the pin back to connector on either side. As far as running the wire, I will probably run along the driver side floor and around to where the harness goes into the engine; will protect it with some plastic loom or mesh. Will post some pics as I go along.

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On 10/13/2017 at 5:22 PM, tolsen said:

Speedo, Sam and engine ecu must all be matched or you’ll get nothing showing in odo. 

 

My understanding is that if all 3 don't match the motor will not start.

 

Is it that it will work but certain features will not? Or is it that nothing will work?

 

 

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On 10/19/2017 at 9:39 AM, stickman007 said:

I haven't tidy up anything yet. Just basically jumped the wire by opening the sheath carefully with an utility knife on either side.

 

In the past, I will just remove the pin, solder the new wire in, shrink tube the area, reinsert the pin back to connector on either side. As far as running the wire, I will probably run along the driver side floor and around to where the harness goes into the engine; will protect it with some plastic loom or mesh. Will post some pics as I go along.

 

Hi stickman007

How is it coming along? Is everything working properly?

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Crazy busy!

 

The car was finally finished last Saturday. I ended up running the wire along the side of the main harness where it normally runs under the SE drive. The owners were so happy that the car ran because the dealership told them that they needed a new SAM, (this was after they already replaced an actuator, and ECU).

 

The no communication with ESP was confirmed due to mismatched equipment code. As soon as I plugged the original SAM/Dash/ECU, I was able to communicate with it.

 

Found another cause for 3 bars that I haven't seen anywhere. I accidentally shorted the 12v wire (pin5 of the EGR connector) while trying the hide the EGR emulator because I was careless and in a hurry. The car immediately gave me a 3 bar, and started beeping (engine still runs). Traced it back to the 10amp fuse 9 on the SAM. Replaced, the fuse, and the car was fine.

 

So much to learn on these little cars...

Edited by stickman007
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Just to be clear,  this car was a customers car I presume, and they had MB replace the ECU.

When they replaced the ECU and actuator the car still did not run is that when you got into it? 

I wonder how much MB soaked them to replace those parts that weren't needed?

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I was told the ECU was over $2400 and the actuator over $700

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The owners told me they've spent about $3k between the MB dealership and Pug City...I cannot confirm the authenticity of their story, but they did give me a spare ECU and actuator when they dropped off the car.

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What did you end up charging for all this time spent if you don't mind me asking?

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I rather not share the cost, but it took me altogether 8hrs. That included fixing the corroded connector, exposing and tracing the wires, swapping parts, coding/teaching adaptations...etc. I also coded extra keys they had, and realigned the cabrio hatch that was not closing properly. 

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I charge in single or multiple pints of good ale. One pint for complete diagnostics. Another pint to do gear change adaptation or adjust clutch electronically. Multiple pints to set clutch manually since bolts are usually seized and require oxy acetylene to free.  

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Cheapest in the uk if not in the whole universe.  

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Posted (edited) · Report post

I knew a guy who would bring coffee's to a mechanic to pick his brain when ever he needed help. Somehow bringing a $1.50 coffee would completely change his attitude towards his customers. He charges $120/hr or $ 2/min if you were to convert it to dollars.The mechanic would spend at least 10 to 15 minutes chatting while drinking his coffee. The problem was this particular mechanic knew very little next to nothing about Smart cars. But a hell of a lot about domestic ones.

And yes that guy was me!  

Edited by NFB
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