mfr334

3 bars 2006 CDI

15 posts in this topic

I know theres lots of articles out there on the subject, and i've probably read almost all of them, but would like some insight to my specific situation

 

I have a 2006 CDI with 150,000k on it, the car works great aside from the fact the infrequently, yet increasing in frequency, when the car is downshifting, i'll have a loss of power, ill glide to a stop, the 3 bars will come up, ill put it in neutral and put my foot on the brake and can hear the clutch actuator trying to do its thing...after a few seconds of clicking it will eventually come back to N on the display and I can start the car and all seems fine again. Seems to only happen after the car has been driven for a while, will happen in all weather conditions dry or wet makes no difference.

 

I havent had the car long and don't know much of the service history, for all I know it has never had a clutch teach-in done to it

 

I have an appointment in a few weeks with the 'local' MB dealer (6 hour round trip ugh) and before I go and they throw parts at it, would like yours guys opinion, service guy on the phone said it sounds like the actuator itself is bad and said its over $1000 to replace.

 

Thoughts?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

these symptoms sound the same as my friend had on his 05 cabrio

 

the first time it kept happening i adjusted the actuator manually

 

the second time (about a year later) i had to do a repair to the actuator rod to prevent it from going so deep into the worn clutch fork ....and that has worked great so far 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Agree. I bet the actuator rod has worn the clutch release bearing.

I had a machine shop make me up a sleeve that fits over the end of the rod - problem solved for a number of years.

A local garage would be able to do the repair with some guidance and the sleeve. PM if you want more details.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A threaded phenolic ball should be a better fix to a metal sleeve.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/23/2017 at 9:07 PM, mfr334 said:

I know theres lots of articles out there on the subject, and i've probably read almost all of them, but would like some insight to my specific situation

 

I have a 2006 CDI with 150,000k on it, the car works great aside from the fact the infrequently, yet increasing in frequency, when the car is downshifting, i'll have a loss of power, ill glide to a stop, the 3 bars will come up, ill put it in neutral and put my foot on the brake and can hear the clutch actuator trying to do its thing...after a few seconds of clicking it will eventually come back to N on the display and I can start the car and all seems fine again. Seems to only happen after the car has been driven for a while, will happen in all weather conditions dry or wet makes no difference.

 

I havent had the car long and don't know much of the service history, for all I know it has never had a clutch teach-in done to it

 

I have an appointment in a few weeks with the 'local' MB dealer (6 hour round trip ugh) and before I go and they throw parts at it, would like yours guys opinion, service guy on the phone said it sounds like the actuator itself is bad and said its over $1000 to replace.

 

Thoughts?

Did you solve the problem? Was it the  actuator rod or chaffed wiring  to the gear position sensor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not yet, waiting on a sleeve to attach to the actuator rod, like Smart142 suggested, then i'm gonna take it in for a teach-in, and go from there...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Setting clutch bite point electronically is not that important unless someone in the past has incorrectly preloaded clutch actuator and then had it set electronically.

Apply mineral grease to socket in release fork.  Then fit actuator and preload as specified.  I have modified my clutch actuator rod to allow grease to be injected without removing actuator.  Drilled a 2 mm centre hole at tip of rod plus a radial hole.  I inject grease through the radial hole with an Oregon chain saw bar grease gun.  Grease protects against rust and reduces wear hence much less chance of punch through.

 

To ensure water and dirt does not enter internals of clutch actuator I have cleaned and removed the casting flash on housing where grommet sits plus cleaned groove for grommet on actuator rod. Mineral grease will make the rubber grommet swell.  Therefore apply silicone grease where grommet seals against housing and rod.

I also paint my actuators to protect from the elements.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

Thanks to those that helped both here and privately, you saved me a lot of time and money, I installed the sleeve and have it back together, seems to be driving and shifting fine, will have to take it for a good long drive to definitively call this solved, I think ill hold off on the electronic adjustment unless further problems come up, really dont like the look of the clutch fork, will be interesting to see how much time this buys me. Anyone not periodically greasing their actuator needs to start.

23140523_10159577615960596_1687137404_n.jpg23146053_10159577616075596_384306229_n.jpg

Edited by mfr334

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

wow youre release bearing arm is in awful shape

 

it looks like its about to tear away and leave a big hole

Edited by LooseLugNuts

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, LooseLugNuts said:

wow youre release bearing arm is in awful shape

 

it looks like its about to tear away and leave a big hole

 

Yup, definitely needs replaced, this is a temporary fix at best

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can weld repair your punched through socket. Alternatively contact designerdave and get one of his repair sockets. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted (edited) · Report post

15 hours ago, mfr334 said:

Thanks to those that helped both here and privately, you saved me a lot of time and money, I installed the sleeve and have it back together, seems to be driving and shifting fine, will have to take it for a good long drive to definitively call this solved, I think ill hold off on the electronic adjustment unless further problems come up, really dont like the look of the clutch fork, will be interesting to see how much time this buys me. Anyone not periodically greasing their actuator needs to start.

23140523_10159577615960596_1687137404_n.jpg23146053_10159577616075596_384306229_n.jpg

 

I prefer to weld on SS 1/2" acorn nut to the actuator rod. It has maximum contact to the clutch fork socket.

 

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/1170964;jsessionid=XHHSvEaokZ0lFL3im6+HVgZo.38536438-9c19-3947-9017-bf77ad0514fd?r=~|categoryl1:"600000 Fasteners"|~ ~|categoryl2:"600072 Nuts"|~ ~|categoryl3:"602448 Acorn Nuts"|~

 

a nut.png

Edited by GRP151

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, GRP151 said:

$2.73 / Each is rather expensive and 3/4" between the flats is too big.  Go for M10 acorn nut 17mm between the flats.  Cost from a shop in Aberdeen is £0.39 each.  Material A2 stainless steel.  Simply cut and tap tip of actuator rod and screw nut on tight.

86693.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Diameter of socket is only 14 mm so the M10 acorn nut will ride on the “entrance” to the socket which is chamfered. Hole in  aluminium engine block where rod passed through may have to be enlarged to provide sufficient clearance. 

 

Still wondering what came of designerdave’s socket repair insert. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

    Chatbox
    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More