ACSTECH

Mysterious coolant leak

51 posts in this topic

I bought my first smart CDI this September. It had only 49,000km. End of October I had a clogged EGR and cleaned that up with no problems and now I have my second issue with the car. It has developed a coolant leak off of the left (drivers) side of the engine. It comes down onto the intercooler hose connected to the turbo, across the rear suspension in the center of the frame and onto the ground. Can anyone tell me what would be carrying coolant on that side of the engine?

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A coolant line goes to the egr. Is the clamp tight and correct?

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I forgot about that line. It may be the steel gasket too. I’ll check tomorrow. Thanks.

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Years working with chemicals had made my sense of smell less that perfect. I am fairly certain it is now diesel. Coming from what I would guess is the fuel pump on the left side of the engine. I am about to pull off the EGR to get better access and while I am in there I willing order the parts tomorrow to do a rebuild.

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I recall somebody posted the rebuild procedure somewhere on this forum. 

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Can anyone direct me to where to buy the rebuild kit? Mercedes said all they have is a new high pressure pump for $1200.

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Start by Google searching Bosch CP1 rebuild kit or seal kit.  Out of the US the kit will cost you about $50 shipped.  I bought a kit from the UK a couple of years ago for about half that if I remember correctly.  I am sure Tolsen can find them for even less.  If you find a deal let us know.  X8R has a pretty good video showing what is involved.

 

Nigel

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Buy seal kit from Mercedes or from Bosch. Pump is Bosch CP1 and all CP1 seals are the same. Here there are lots of Bosch seal kits on eBay. Price about £14 inclusive of postage. 

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Seal kits for our Bosch CP1 pump have dropped in price since I fixed mine. 

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/CP1-Bosch-Diesel-Common-Rail-Fuel-Pump-Seal-Seals-Repair-Fix-Leak-Kit-Alfa-Fiat/172873041792?hash=item2840094780:g:tW8AAOSwHIlZwSfG

£7 plus £3.50 postage to Canada. That is about CAD 18.50 in total. 

I suggest a clean environment and cleaning pump externally before removing. Proper seal kits like those sold by Smart and Bosch also come with seal plugs to seal off all fuel entry points and fuel pipes. 

I used cans of cheap supermarket penetration oil to clean internal pump parts. Buy or borrow a good torque wrench capable of applying torques down to 5Nm. Try not to loose internal parts. 

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Note that the cheap seal above does not come with metal seals. 

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Excellent information from all. I see a lot of repeat screen names from other threads so I am confident this information is Accurate. As soon as I saw CP1 I knew what I needed. I was just searching with the Bosch number and getting different pumps for everything. From a sprinter, to BMW, Mercedes, and Renault. Thanks for the help all. I am checking into sending it away to a pump rebuilder. If it will be much cheaper with just buying the seals I will go that route and take it to the clean room at work for rebuild. Once again thanks to all for the help. I will update with repairs as they are done.

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Just in case anyone is wondering, the white plastic rings are called back up rings. Their purpose is to prevent extrusion and damage to the o rings. 

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Update:

Waiting on parts from Miami. ETA 9 Feb

She will have to sit in the garage until then. Maybe I will take the doors off and take them to work and paint them. A few body panels at a time.

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On 2018-01-22 at 1:02 PM, Nigel said:

Start by Google searching Bosch CP1 rebuild kit or seal kit.  Out of the US the kit will cost you about $50 shipped.  I bought a kit from the UK a couple of years ago for about half that if I remember correctly.  I am sure Tolsen can find them for even less.  If you find a deal let us know.  X8R has a pretty good video showing what is involved.

 

Nigel

Just checked amazon.ca. $35 for the rebuild kit by X8R

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Ok, just received the parts. Disassembly to start tonight. Updates to follow. They came much faster than anticipated.

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Clean thoroughly all around pump and pipe connections before starting.  Spray penetration oil onto pipe connections and wiggle loose. 

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I've just seen my pump in below video from 0:47 to 1:00.

 

 

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You have to remove the I/C fan and EGR to get at the high pressure pump.

 

Start by disconnecting the 2 big plugs on the ECU that is on the side of the air box. The I/C fan has a connector at the top that needs to be squeezed to be rem'd. 

The rear panels should be taken off to get at the bolts holding on the EGR.

 

After that its the bracket and then the high pressure pump. That's a tight fit to the engine block so use lots of penetrating oil and then wiggle it out.  Have patience and good luck!

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Pump is only held on with two or three screws so quickly removed once other parts are out.  Plug

all openings including those on connected pipes. Pump must be immaculately clean externally before opening out.  Workplace must be clean too.

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3 hours ago, Ritchie said:

I like how this image shows you the parts being replaced

kit.png

Wrong image for our pumps. 

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That looks like the smart pump to me.

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7 minutes ago, smart142 said:

That looks like the smart pump to me.

Our pump has third pumping element cut off, different low pressure seals and no pressure regulator fitted on pump. 

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