PeterOttawa

Transmission locked key won't turn

21 posts in this topic

I have a 2006 Smartfortwo CDI Pure - as basic as you can get. I left it out in the cold and there was a thaw and then a quick freeze. I tried to start the car but the key wouldn't turn and it appears the transmission shift lever is stuck in neutral. I thought that maybe it was frozen so I pushed it into the garage and warmed the car up but to no avail. Since I did not have a block heater cord I went to the Mercedes dealer to buy one ($172) hoping that may help but the service department folks didn't think that would work so I didn't try that. They suggested that it may be the brake lock switch and had the replacement part but that requires getting under the car to do the work which I am not quite ready to do. The only option I see at this point is to either wait until spring or have the car towed to the Mercedes dealer. I would appreciate any suggestions as to how to get this car going. The battery seems fine and it started and ran well prior to this.

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simple brake switch check is to press the pedal and listen for a relay click....and of course look for brake lights

 

 

brake switch wont stop your key from turning,,,it will just prevent shifting which in turn prevents cranking if youre not in neutral

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If the key doesn't turn, this tells me that somehow, dampness has worked it's way into the lock.  Try some liquid lock de-icer or a hairdryer to thaw things out. 

 

Do yourself a favour and check out the service options in your area.  They might be less expensive than an MB dealership.  You might also try auto recyclers in your area.  There might be a heater cord in one of the dead smarts that can be had for very few $$$.

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Solved. I used a heat gun and after a few minutes the key turned and it started Thanks for the help saved me some big bucks. And I did hear a click when I pressed the brake pedal. I should have thought about applying heat directly to the key slot. 

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Posted (edited) · Report post

sweet

 

i had trouble a few weeks ago when that cold spell came through..it would work though if i wiggled the key (like has to be done on most chev trucks)

 

i figured it must be a stuck wafer in the ignition lock...some lock deicer/lube cleared the problem and id all but forgot about it

 

 

 

also if i were you id skip the expensive cord option and just go install an outlet on the car like a NOCO GCP1 13 Amp 125V AC Port Plug

Edited by LooseLugNuts
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It has always interested me that there is a 110 V connector on the front of the car which requires a special power cord.

 

I simply put a heater or whatever I want to connect inside the car. 

 

With the car door open I connect an extension cord and slam the door. Done!

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HTB1Ovrub3sSMeJjSspcq6xjFXXaS.jpg?size=1

I too have been thinking of using one of these but have struggled finding one with a waterproof cap.  This particular cap, I think, will not last very long and be difficult to remove as no flange to grip onto.

Therefore, I will be fitting this type of socket without any flap or cap in the boot area of my 450.  Intend to source socket from a scrapped PC power supply.

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I agree it is cheap, possibly too cheap. Study how rubber cap is attached to socket and you may appreciate my concerns. 

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i ordered some ...figure ill try it out and might be useful for other projects

 

and for $6 if theyre crap at least ill have spares to swap in 

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2_C8_D486_E-_FD7_B-4_F40-834_C-846138_EB

 

09_A9_F3_B1-45_D6-4_A8_D-8_BCA-_A7273929

 

Will be interesting to learn how the cap will perform in the cold. I suspect not very well. 

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I bought two IEC 60320 C14 chassis inlets with plastic flap and matching C13 connectors.  Got a great plan to ensure the C14 chassis inlet is sufficiently water proof.  Do not trust the rubber bung type to work in the cold when it is needed.

 

HTB1D_QIHXXXXXXPXVXXq6xXFXXXa.jpg

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/AC-power-socket-with-waterproof-cover/32237467829.html

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My cunning plan:

 

1) Will apply polyurethane rubber sealant to flap. Need to apply release agent to C14 inlet or use cling film or something to ensure flap does not stick. 

2) Will mount C14 at a slight angle such that water will drain out. 

3) Intended orientation will be such that flap will bend the least possible angle and for ease of opening flap and fitting connector. 

 

Polyurethane rubber sealant comes in standard 300 ml cartridges for about £4 here. Sticks to practically anything and is available in black.  I have used this sealant to repair Smart drive shaft boots and both rear inboard drive shaft boots on my Kangoo Trekka. I also used it to seal my 450 oil sump and timing chain cover. The sealant is unaffected by petrol and oil but no good for temperatures above 70C. My timing chain cover has therefore developed a wee leak. Sump is still fine. 

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Flap spring, if only carbon steel will limit working life to no more than three years provided I keep applying protective grease religiously. 

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Il y a 8 heures, caldense a dit :

 Why would anyone go through al this trouble playing around with urethane sealant when the answer is using the soft rubber bung type as GRP mention???

If your worried the the rubber cover flap will not last, why not make another flap and gasket piece from an old inner tube and use your (stick to anything polyurethane sealant) to adhere it?

When my order arrives I'll give it the freezer test and update everyone on its performance.

I am not convinced the rubber cover flap will remain soft in the cold but look eagerly forward to finding out following completion of your freezer test in a few weeks time.

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My chassis inlet sockets arrived Friday 2 February so rather quick delivery considering they came all the way from China.

IEC60320_C14_chassis_inlet.jpg

 

I'll make flap reasonably weather tight by applying a bead of black polyurethane sealant to flap.  Silicone grease and cling film over mating part of housing to avoid flap sticking permanently.

 

The socket must be mounted such that it can be quickly and easily disconnected from the body part where it will be fitted as otherwise there will be unnecessary complications when removing body panels.

 

Any thoughts and solutions folks?

 

 

 

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I suppose you can always cut cable and reterminate each time front panels have to come off. Better to fit socket such that is not attached to front panels or can be easily disconnected from front panels. 

 

How is existing socket attached?

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26 minutes ago, Huronlad said:

7 years ago this modification was discussed with photos.

 

Old 120V plug replacement thread.

 

 

Brilliant and a much more suitable inlet socket than those suggested here.  

I also see socket is mounted onto the radiator support bracket hence won't interfere with removal of front panels.

 

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I don't care about most expensive or least expensive.  The link is there to show where the connector was located for the Canadian cars, as it was not done in other countries.  With so many things on these forums, if you have not been here from the beginning, someone probably already beat you to it.

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