PeterOttawa

Transmission locked key won't turn

32 posts in this topic

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On 2/7/2018 at 2:47 PM, tolsen said:

My chassis inlet sockets arrived Friday 2 February so rather quick delivery considering they came all the way from China.

IEC60320_C14_chassis_inlet.jpg

 

I'll make flap reasonably weather tight by applying a bead of black polyurethane sealant to flap.  Silicone grease and cling film over mating part of housing to avoid flap sticking permanently.

 

The socket must be mounted such that it can be quickly and easily disconnected from the body part where it will be fitted as otherwise there will be unnecessary complications when removing body panels.

 

Any thoughts and solutions folks?

 

 

 

 

Edited by GRP151
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I suppose you can always cut cable and reterminate each time front panels have to come off. Better to fit socket such that is not attached to front panels or can be easily disconnected from front panels. 

 

How is existing socket attached?

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26 minutes ago, Huronlad said:

7 years ago this modification was discussed with photos.

 

Old 120V plug replacement thread.

 

 

Brilliant and a much more suitable inlet socket than those suggested here.  

I also see socket is mounted onto the radiator support bracket hence won't interfere with removal of front panels.

 

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You should also note that Huronlad mentioned this mod from a post years ago with a "different" 120V connector. Not sure if he understood that GRP's suggestion was the least expensive way of doing this conversion.

 

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I don't care about most expensive or least expensive.  The link is there to show where the connector was located for the Canadian cars, as it was not done in other countries.  With so many things on these forums, if you have not been here from the beginning, someone probably already beat you to it.

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