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stickman007

Red Pxl Thread

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I would absolutely recommend keeping that same engine... but do you really need to renew all those internal parts? Have you though of getting an oil sample?

 

The car is right at that point where all of this preservation work is not expensive per se, and totally worth it in the long run....

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1 hour ago, stickman007 said:

@smart142 Where do you source your hydraulic lifters, timing chain, oil pump sprocket...etc? Just in case. Would it be "smarter" to find an used engine to recondition, then swap?

 

Those can all be bought at Mercedes.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

1 hour ago, stickman007 said:

@smart142 Where do you source your hydraulic lifters, timing chain, oil pump sprocket...etc? Just in case. Would it be "smarter" to find an used engine to recondition, then swap?

LOL....that's why I bought my second SmartCar....just to have a running engine to rebuild, then I started looking at it as a winter beater to preserve the car I drive now.....I still have two running engines all the same...just don't have one to tear a part without destroying a running vehicle....maybe I need another, "Please Sir, Can I have Another...?"......lol

Edited by Willys

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I don't think it needs all those engine internals...just paranoid (worst case scenario planning). Contrary to the perception (because I posted all these things that I want to check/work on), the car is in great shape, as I've said earlier, I have issues with perfection...

 

With the fresh engine oil change, I will need to run it a few hundred kms before I can get a decent oil sample. But thanks for the tips to send the samples to Finning...I think that's where I will get it done.

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best to have 1000 kms on the oil if possible - results are always better compared in ppm / 1000 kms, at least as far as wear particles go.....

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Took Red Pxl out of storage yesterday and took it for a rip out of town. Was driving it most of today and put on about 200km in just 2 days!

 

Got my new KWP2000+ work finally (thank you tolsen for the driver), so I remapped the car. 

 

Plan to drive the Canada1 for the next month or so just to get it out of my system before storing her again for winter.

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That car which is now yours was the one that my friend's 17 year old son always loved - so much so, he always said wanted a smart.

Today he's getting one, with a full selection of oil for the next three changes and Howes additives to keep it running clean. ;)

I will win the lottery and buy the cab out east perhaps. :)

 

 

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The cab is worth getting hold of.  Never had so much fun with my clothes on.

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Had a beautiful drive this morning with Red Pxl...want to squeeze in a few more days before winter.

 

As I was heading back to Edmonton about 30mins out of the city, all of a sudden, she started jerking whenever I had to feather the throttle. TC light came on, and so did the Engine light. This has happened in the past before, but usually it goes away after a shut down with 30sec for the SAM to reset. But this time, it didn't go away. I was able to limp the car to a friend's farm and tried to call my wife, in which she didn't answer. After about 10mins, I tried to start the car again, and this time, TC light was out, and Engine light was on, but it drove fine. I was able to make it home.

 

With STAR connected, i had P2414 and P1703.

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So...checked the wiring, they all look good visually. No chafing or rubbing that I can see. No water ingestion or pin corrosion on the actuator plug. Decided to just swap the actuator with an used one that I have laying around. Did a drag point and teach in with STAR and now she is running fine. Drove to ikea and back in the rain and had major traffic with a lot of stop and go. I guess it was just time for the actuator to die - 111188km on the clock. This is probably the last week that I’ll be driving Red pxl this season.

 

Had a bit of a fight with the used actuator as it was in the extended position. Evilution’s method of hitting the brakes with ignition on to retract the rod didn’t work for me. I had to press the actuator against the floor with my weight to get the rod in.

 

 

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Getting ready for my BC road trip with Red Pxl.

 

A few things that needed my attention: IC fan was dead, minor exhaust leak between the EGR cooler and exhaust manifold, cleaning up old oil leaks, installed and hide wires for dash cam, and attempt to limit the excessive engine movements. Might pull the injectors if I can find a local shop to test/clean them. I also have a freewheeling alternator pulley coming and will install it if it gets here before Friday.

 

IMG_0002.jpg

 

What was just going to be a clean up of an old oil leak turned into a full blown EGR delete. Even though the EGR valve is tuned to never open, I decided to remove everything for better access to the engine when working on it. Attempted a new method in bypassing the coolant hoses to the EGR cooler - rather than trying to fit (a smaller diameter hose) directly to the thermostat, I put a 90 elbow bypassing the 2 hoses thereby eliminating the need to stick my hand into tight spots and better access.

IMG_0004.jpg

 

The old engine mounts were a bit soft. I was able to rock the engine back and forth to the point where one of the A/C fitting (on top of the compressor) made contact with the firewall. Decided to inject polyurethane adhesive into all three engine mounts to see if I can buy myself a few more months. Probably going to be a rough ride.

IMG_0005.jpg

 

Installed and routed wires for the rear dash cam - absolute essential in Edmonton here.

IMG_0007.jpgIMG_0006.jpg

 

 

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Be honest IZZY....you just wanted the latest massaging seat option.....lol.....Brrrrrrrrrr........Brrrrrrrrrrrr........lol

 

You must tell us how it worked....lol

 

Yes front and rear camera's are a must when driving within any urban centre now a days imho.  Just to cover your ass as they say...lol.   Especially when driving a valuable vehicle .....lol    In our eyes anyway....lol

 

I was going to ask what type of inter cooler fan you were using then it clicked.....what I was looking at in your pics...lol.

 

You have a new turbo I see, off shore or $$$$....and how is it..?

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Just a good cleaning...can’t afford a new turbo yet.

 

Installed an auxiliary cable today. Make sure that I can hook up to some music in the trip.

 

Still waiting for the mounts to cure...maybe give it another day. Ended up ordering an IC fan from MB. Got it for $130...not too bad I guess.

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Well....guess its time for a turbo :( You jinxed it Willys!

 

While doing a last minute check on Red Pxl before our road trip tomorrow. I noticed a pretty big leak on the RHS of the turbo coming from the big snap ring. It has always weep a bit of oil...but now its a full blown leak. Regrettably, we won't be taking the car on our trip tomorrow, but at least we didn't break down in the middle of nowhere.

 

Another note from the modified engine mount....it definitely improved the car's gear change and take off from a stop, but not worth the extra vibration. Just ordered new mounts from flyingtiger (Eddy).

 

So here's the dilemma: Chinese turbo/cartridge or genuine $$$ K31 or used. Input anyone?

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Sorry to hear this...Hmmm.........so what does the new stock turbo cost?  OR, can you go larger or is that just not worth the trouble.....as they say go big or go home...lol.  I'm not sure what sized turbo we use but did read somewhere there are two sizes....but....is it even doable?

 

As you said, far better to have it show it's colours at home compared to having it drop far away from home...IMHO.   A shame you can't take the car all the same.  Maybe next time?

As for the engine mounts I just bought a new front and also have the inserts to help stiffen it up a tad.......hopefully they don't cause too much vibration...?

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Hmmm.....that adhesive you used on your mount.....did it cure rock hard or have some flexibility to it?   What about using a different type of solution that cures to a rubbery cured state...?   Yep you guessed it, my favorite ........silicon based...lol.....even if you only filled half of the mount and not fill it completely?   I wanted to buy the rear mounts also but the cost was far too much.....I may think about trying to work with the older really flexible set before messing with the newer set i have...?

 

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The polyurethane adhesive that I used had some flex to it...but was definitely harder than silicon. I filled the mounts completely. I think when I get the car going again, I will reuse the front filled mount and installed the new ones in the rear. There's not enough demand to make it worth file, but I could definitely 3D print an insert mould and make my own removable insert...that way I can try the different stiffness. Either way, I guess this will take the car out of commission for the season. Might as well tear the engine apart and rebuild?

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Hi 

Flying tiger has new poem turbo For 1500 and a factory rebuilt 1300 and something plus tax.

Hope that helps with your dilemma

The weather is supposed to be spotty with rain for the next week and a bit so wasn't looking forward to taking the canada1 over to the island.

Maybe we can meet for coffee somewhere here in the lower mainland 

Alan

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tolson said he is running the Chinese turbo for years now without issue. you can get a cartridge for around 200 cad

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if you're going to go with oem I get a bit of a deal through bd diesel in abby. if memory serves it was around 500 for a cartridge and 900 ish for complete with manifold and new waste gate pot....but that was a bit ago

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Posted (edited) · Report post

How many km are on that car?  That's really bad luck.....

Edited by MikeT

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It all comes back to previous maintenance and how well it was done IMHO....some folks do just what's needed when broken while others go insane, myself included when it comes to maintenance of their toys!

 

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114k on the odometer now. It was weeping before, but last night I noticed a drip, took the bumper off to confirm. I had it all cleaned up when I reassembled everything on Thursday night.

 

Im temped to try a Chinese cartridge since I don’t mind working on the car and the price is right. @tolsen - any recommendation for a “reliable-ish” vendor? I’ll save up for a genuine kp31 or rebuild over the winter. I just want to drive and enjoy the car for the summer.

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I doubt lack of maintenance has anything to do with turbo failure (unless the oil was never changed, which I know not to be the case with this car).  More likely it's turbo abuse, like shutting the engine off right after doing an intense high boost hillclimb.  Perhaps the 2nd previous owner was not careful.

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