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stickman007

Red Pxl Thread

61 posts in this topic

I would absolutely recommend keeping that same engine... but do you really need to renew all those internal parts? Have you though of getting an oil sample?

 

The car is right at that point where all of this preservation work is not expensive per se, and totally worth it in the long run....

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1 hour ago, stickman007 said:

@smart142 Where do you source your hydraulic lifters, timing chain, oil pump sprocket...etc? Just in case. Would it be "smarter" to find an used engine to recondition, then swap?

 

Those can all be bought at Mercedes.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

1 hour ago, stickman007 said:

@smart142 Where do you source your hydraulic lifters, timing chain, oil pump sprocket...etc? Just in case. Would it be "smarter" to find an used engine to recondition, then swap?

LOL....that's why I bought my second SmartCar....just to have a running engine to rebuild, then I started looking at it as a winter beater to preserve the car I drive now.....I still have two running engines all the same...just don't have one to tear a part without destroying a running vehicle....maybe I need another, "Please Sir, Can I have Another...?"......lol

Edited by Willys

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I don't think it needs all those engine internals...just paranoid (worst case scenario planning). Contrary to the perception (because I posted all these things that I want to check/work on), the car is in great shape, as I've said earlier, I have issues with perfection...

 

With the fresh engine oil change, I will need to run it a few hundred kms before I can get a decent oil sample. But thanks for the tips to send the samples to Finning...I think that's where I will get it done.

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best to have 1000 kms on the oil if possible - results are always better compared in ppm / 1000 kms, at least as far as wear particles go.....

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Took Red Pxl out of storage yesterday and took it for a rip out of town. Was driving it most of today and put on about 200km in just 2 days!

 

Got my new KWP2000+ work finally (thank you tolsen for the driver), so I remapped the car. 

 

Plan to drive the Canada1 for the next month or so just to get it out of my system before storing her again for winter.

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That car which is now yours was the one that my friend's 17 year old son always loved - so much so, he always said wanted a smart.

Today he's getting one, with a full selection of oil for the next three changes and Howes additives to keep it running clean. ;)

I will win the lottery and buy the cab out east perhaps. :)

 

 

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The cab is worth getting hold of.  Never had so much fun with my clothes on.

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Had a beautiful drive this morning with Red Pxl...want to squeeze in a few more days before winter.

 

As I was heading back to Edmonton about 30mins out of the city, all of a sudden, she started jerking whenever I had to feather the throttle. TC light came on, and so did the Engine light. This has happened in the past before, but usually it goes away after a shut down with 30sec for the SAM to reset. But this time, it didn't go away. I was able to limp the car to a friend's farm and tried to call my wife, in which she didn't answer. After about 10mins, I tried to start the car again, and this time, TC light was out, and Engine light was on, but it drove fine. I was able to make it home.

 

With STAR connected, i had P2414 and P1703.

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So...checked the wiring, they all look good visually. No chafing or rubbing that I can see. No water ingestion or pin corrosion on the actuator plug. Decided to just swap the actuator with an used one that I have laying around. Did a drag point and teach in with STAR and now she is running fine. Drove to ikea and back in the rain and had major traffic with a lot of stop and go. I guess it was just time for the actuator to die - 111188km on the clock. This is probably the last week that I’ll be driving Red pxl this season.

 

Had a bit of a fight with the used actuator as it was in the extended position. Evilution’s method of hitting the brakes with ignition on to retract the rod didn’t work for me. I had to press the actuator against the floor with my weight to get the rod in.

 

 

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