darbykelly

Delay in gear change

18 posts in this topic

Hi,

 

Pretty new to both smart cars and the forum, hope you can help, I have a 2008 petrol pulse with the shift paddles, I drive mainly in auto. the gear changes used to be fine but I seem to get a delay now then kicks in, almost like the clutch is slipping, but once it is engaged, it pulls fine, also changes gear fine in auto or on the paddles. The change was almost immediate one evening changing gears fine with no power loss, the next day what sound like clutch slip starts to happen. I hope you can help.

 

Cheers.

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How many km on the clutch? It could be wearing out, or the clutch actuator might need adjusting. 

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are you from London England or London Ontario?

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3 hours ago, darren said:

How many km on the clutch? It could be wearing out, or the clutch actuator might need adjusting. 

39000 miles how do you adjust the actuator?

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The 451 clutch actuator is self adjusting but will suffer just like the one for the 450 by corrosion build up where rubber boot seals against rod and body causing ingress of water and slower operation. 

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Clutch actuator isn’t self adjusting 

the 450 had a self adjusting clutch module fly wheel pressure and clutch plate but depending on the service or the tech doing that service you had to check the clutch and move the actutor on it’s 3 bolts and then use star to relearn the biting point in the meg (ecu) 

the 451 has a normal 3 piece manual clutch and a clutch actuator so does need relearning from time to time to make smooth pull away and gear change 

clutch should be fully let go by 1500 rpm and have a little slack in the bar going to the clutch 

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Clutch wear compensation is built into the 451's clutch actuator.  It is permanently preloaded provided fitted correctly.  There is a spring  inside female part of clutch actuator push rod whose purpose is to preload the whole clutch operating system to eliminate slack and prevent rattle and wear.

The mechanism adjusts itself automatically. Sets itself to zero position each time clutch actuator is retracted. This is similar to the auto adjuster mechanism in hand brake lever which also sets itself to zero each time hand brake lever is lowered to its rest position.

Below are some photos of the mechanism:

 

451CApushrod1.jpg

 

451CApushrod2.jpg

 

451CApushrod3.jpg

 

451CApushrod4.jpg

 

See if you can figure out how it works by studying the photos!

I did.

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I can’t say that was something I knew about but the transmission ecu changes it’s value when you re teach it in and when the service light starts flash and the gear position symbol then that’s smarts software issue highlighting its self.

also when you get a chance you check transmission software for selection issue and when it updates you need to reset the biting point which is an issue you cannot see

 

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There is no zero on the biting point value when you readapt the clutch actuator and you set it for in and out values and then start the car where I presume it gets a value for biting point which is set for idle 

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Main problem with the 451 clutch actuator is water ingress and it’s high price. 

Due to much larger rubber boot it is more prone to corrosion where boot seals against actuator body. Water causes corrosion of aluminium body. Aluminium oxide is very hard therefore used to make sandpaper etc so increases friction often causing motor pinion to snap

off. Then the only cure is new actuator costing around £400+. 

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Yeah and the pinion is a very small diameter can’t understand why so costly when they know it’s a design floor

450 ones were reliable till they start to jerk 

the 1.3 four 4 had issues with the clutch actuator pinion snapping while chaging gear and knocking the gearbox out of sync requiring replacement I did 4 at the same time when I worked for London Mercedes and have had 2 since with same issue and the 451 gearboxes are going the same way 

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I have a 2002 Smart 450 diesel. Still on its original clutch actuator after only 16 years of service and 178,000 km and plenty of exposure to Scottish damp weather and road salt. 

Have varnished actuator several times to limit corrosion and apply silicone grease to areas where rubber boot seals against rod and actuator body.  I think keeping water out is main reason for its longevity. 

I clean, varnish and apply silicone grease normally at this time each year. Have only cleaned and greased its internals once. 

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For faster gear changes up and quicker acceleration I have fitted a freewheeling pulley on alternator. Made a significant difference also quieter. 

 

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Is the diseasel alternator physically the same as the petrol one? I appreciate the windings and internals might differ, but wouldn't mind doing the pulley mod myself.

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51 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Is the diseasel alternator physically the same as the petrol one? I appreciate the windings and internals might differ, but wouldn't mind doing the pulley mod myself.

Alternator for the diesel 450 has shaft thread size M16x1.5.   Alternators on petrol Smart 450 models have different thread and register sizes.

 

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45 minutes ago, Chopper said:

Bummer :(

You just have to do your homework and find a freewheeling pulley that fits just like I did.

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Or not! 

 

I'm not removing the old pulley and having the car off the road until a new one arrives, and I'm definitely not reassembling it only to take it apart again when the new one arrives.  Im full of titanium up one arm, so avoid spannering where I can. 

 

I'd like to do it, but it's a value added mod, not an essential, so I'm happy to pass by for now.  

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