marinersk

Ohio Canadian 2005 Fortwo Passion cdi - Work Begins

45 posts in this topic

So the work on my wee beastie has begun.

 

  • Got all the pieces I could find put back onto the car.
  • Replaced the battery.  Cleaned corrosion from the cables using some liquid spray thingy from the oil cupboard.  Probably Penetrating Oil LOL.  Didn't have any carb cleaner or battery cleaner handy.  The corrosion colony on the positive terminal was advanced enough to apply for citizenship.
  • Marveled at the female 110 outlet stowed in the battery compartment.  Female.  As in, the thing you plug your equipment into.  Does this thing have an inverter on it?  Looks like a factory thing (??).  Unlike the other wiring added on the other side of the battery compartment which looks like a reasonably-well done custom mod.
  • Replaced the key battery.
  • Figured out how to mate the key back to the car (sort of; it seems I have to repeat the procedure every day.  That will get old quickly, but sort of acts like an additional anti-theft device, so maybe I can convince myself it's a good thing).
  • Started it.
  • Yes.  She started.  Sitting 4 years with diesel at 3/4 tank, and she started.
  • She didn't run long.  She bubbled and glurbled and stumbled and sputtered and stuttered.  A few seconds in a belt started to whine; a short while later she surrendered and stalled.
  • No start since; occasional single-pop ignition, not enough to get her going.
  • Recharged battery.  :: hangs head in shame ::
  • Two wrenches on console; presumably oil change indicator or the rough equivalent of a check engine light?
  • OBD-II indicates two codes; I can't figure out how to get my reader to show me the second one.  Seriously.  Programming and using computers since age 14 and I can't find a "Next" button or an arrow key that behaves in an expected manner.  Darn kids and their toys.  Get off my lawn.
  • Throws P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Presssure Too Low).
  • Presume bad fuel and/or clogged fuel filter.  Certainly these need doing anyway, along with the oil and its filter.
  • Speaking of filters, the air filter is half the size of the engine.  My friends will no doubt soon tire of my SmartCar stories.  I don't care.
  • Found the radio code hand-written in the warranty booklet; unlocked the radio and programmed in four stations to the four buttons.However, Button 1 is also "Scan", so when I press 1 now I get the station I asked for... briefly.  LOL  Haven't figured out how to get past that.  An owner's manual might be helpful.
  • Went looking for owner's manual online.  Lots of links teasing me, dangling a purported owner's manual on the other end; but, alas, even including the links from this site; only one downloads a PDF, and my PDF reader can't open it (???).  So I'm flying blinder than usual until I can resolve that issue.  Yes, computer geek can't find or open a PDF file.  Maybe I should retire and garden for a living or something.
  • There's a very nicely done on/off switch which upon closer inspection appears to be mod work; bottom of console/dash, driver's side, near center.  It also, upon closer inspection, appears to be popped out of its socket.  But it looked nice until that happened.
  • Right side has what appears to be a control knob for... an extra air conditioner?  It has a snowflake on it.  Can't wait to find out what that's all about, if it works, etc.
  • Filled all the tires back to one pound shy of the indicated pressure (51 PSI; pushed hand compressor to 51 with a one-pound drop after compressor stops).  If nothing else I figure it will make it easier to push her around while I wait patiently; oh, so patiently, to get her started.
  • After exuberantly announcing to my wife that she started, ran briefly, and then died, with graphic descriptions and lots of hand motioning, her response was:  "You smell like diesel."  I have a great support structure over here.  Me, Myself, and I (thank goodness for the fourth member of the cheering squad:  Ego).

 

Next steps:

 

Purchase:

  • 1/2" drive Torque Wrench
  • 1/2" drive 27mm socket
  • 1-gallon Rotella T6 Oil (yes, it's 5W40 but I keep seeing proclamations that it runs quieter, which I translate as gentler on the motor #thatsmystoryandimstickingtoit )
  • 1 Pela PL-6000 Suction Pump (for oil extraction)
  • 3 x 5-gallon Yellow Diesel Fuel Containers (Tank is 3/4 full, holds 33L (8.7 gallons?) so probably has 5.85 gallons in it.  2 Cans for extracted fuel; 1 Can for new fuel.  Doubles as serious emergency extra supply for long trips into the Grand Canyon or something.  Or if I apply the Forsea refit kit, maybe I could use it to get to Hawaii or something.
  • 32-oz bottle of Diesel Kleen Plus Cetane Boost
  • YesCom 12V 5L Oil Fluid Liquid Diesel Fuel Extractor (don't want to mix diesel and oil in the same pump)
  • Mercedes-Benz Fuel Filter E320 (is that right?)
  • Oil filter for 2005 Smart cdi/Canadian from local Mercedes-Benz dealer (may as well get to know them)
  • 2 x Hockey Puck (to put between the jack/jackstand and the lift point)
  • 2 x JackStands
  • Jack (model to be determined).  Can jury rig something out of paper clips and rubber bands until then.
  • Trying to use brick-n-mortar stores, but some of this stuff is coming from Amazon.  On the week several hurricanes come a-calling.  Yes, I have a wonderful sense of timing.  I'm sure delivery times will be juuuuuuust fiiiiiiiine.

 

Actions:

  • Remove Oil (don't forget to jack Front Left so we get it all).
  • Replace Oil Filter (don't forget to jack Back Left and Right so we can swing an axe under there)
  • Add new Oil, 2.7L exactly, not 3.0L.
  • Remove "fuel".
  • Change Fuel Filter.
  • Add Kleen Boost.
  • Add new Fuel.
  • Pray.
  • Start Car.  (I'm an optimist.)

 

Please oh please oh please don't make me crack the heads open on this wee beastie.  Please please please please please....

 

Also, I need to find out if there's a way to prime the injectors.  Haven't found anything on this yet.  Will post separate question for that.

 

- Steve M.

 

 

 

 

Edited by marinersk2
Spelling, grammar. Or grammer if you're a product of the American Public Education System. Removed cranial rectumitis (I could claim I misspelled "Right" as L-E-F-T). More Typos (yes, "Oil" has an "O" in it). More Typos ("It's Leviosa, not Levyohsah")
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Canadian car probably has the small fuel tank nominal 20 litre (maybe a couple more if you really work at filling it)

The plug by the battery is factory for fitting a battery blanket,  there should be a cord to fit the round plug left side of lower grille.  

The Canadian cars came with a disabled you will have to hit the unlock on the remote every time you start the car after it has been off for a few minutes.

Does yours have the drawer under one of the front seats the owners manual may be there?

Be careful on the fuel filter the Canadian cars use a different one than the European models and the location is different also.

I know there is a Fram oil filter available but I’ve never used one.  I use Mann HU68x

Belt whine is probably seized alternator from sitting.  Do a search here very common problem lots of advice on how to fix.  Most cars won’t crank fast enough to start when the alternator is seized.

 

Oh yeah welcome to the club

Nigel

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2 minutes ago, Nigel said:

Canadian car probably has the small fuel tank nominal 20 litre (maybe a couple more if you really work at filling it)

The plug by the battery is factory for fitting a battery blanket,  there should be a cord to fit the round plug left side of lower grille.  

The Canadian cars came with a disabled you will have to hit the unlock on the remote every time you start the car after it has been off for a few minutes.

Does yours have the drawer under one of the front seats the owners manual may be there?

Be careful on the fuel filter the Canadian cars use a different one than the European models and the location is different also.

I know there is a Fram oil filter available but I’ve never used one.  I use Mann HU68x

Belt whine is probably seized alternator from sitting.  Do a search here very common problem lots of advice on how to fix.  Most cars won’t crank fast enough to start when the alternator is seized.

 

Oh yeah welcome to the club

Nigel

 

I'd read about the alternator freeze-up, and initially guessed that was the source of the belt whine.

 

However, since she had actually started, I talked myself out of that, figuring that the motor would have busted that free.

 

This is the problem with lots of time to think and little experience:  Too many conclusions to jump to.  : -)

 

I'll re-read how to unstick the alternator.  Maybe this will give me my first "take off the right rear tire" story?  I'm sure my friends will be thrilled LOL.

 

Thanks for the tips!  Forgot to look for the drawer, will do so.

 

 

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Snowflake = A/C

 

for the radio, predicted the TP button until it's off the LC screen.  That will make the station stay where it's set to.

 

two wrenches: major service due, or due soon, depending on what number accompanies it.

 

switch at centre of lower console is interior light and switch.

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51 psi sounds high 

 

but ive never really checked what mine say...i just generally go with 34 in cars and 50 in my truck

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16 hours ago, marinersk2 said:
  • Marveled at the female 110 outlet stowed in the battery compartment.  Female.  As in, the thing you plug your equipment into.  Does this thing have an inverter on it?  Looks like a factory thing (??).  Unlike the other wiring added on the other side of the battery compartment which looks like a reasonably-well done custom mod. 
  • Two wrenches on console; presumably oil change indicator or the rough equivalent of a check engine light?
  • An owner's manual might be helpful.
  • Right side has what appears to be a control knob for... an extra air conditioner?  It has a snowflake on it.  Can't wait to find out what that's all about, if it works, etc.
  • Filled all the tires back to one pound shy of the indicated pressure (51 PSI; pushed hand compressor to 51 with a one-pound drop after compressor stops).  If nothing else I figure it will make it easier to push her around while I wait patiently; oh, so patiently, to get her started.
  • Jack (model to be determined).  Can jury rig something out of paper clips and rubber bands until then.

 

  • When plugging into the weird little plug on the driver's side front (lower air intake area .. see second photo) it also sends 110V power to the female plug near the battery.  This can be used to connect an aftermarket battery warmer or electric in-car heater.  See first photo for in-car heater in my car.
  • Two wrenches indicates a more extensive service needed as Mike T mentioned above.  This means wheel removal and checking brake measurements for wear.  Also battery levels and condition.  Many other things as well which a competent mechanic should check. A single wrench indicates oil and filter change.
  • Try an on-line search of local and non-local wreckers (auto recyclers) for a manual.  You may get lucky.
  • Also as mentioned above, snowflake = Air conditioner.
  • I can't see 51 psi as being a proper tire pressure for the smart.  Way too high!
  • Smarts also come with a compressor that has a pressure gauge inline.
  • Personally, I use a small bottle jack.  It doesn't take up much room and works well.

Smart Heater.jpg

Smart Plug.jpg

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Thanks to all for the tips and info.  

  • Thanks to the UK owner's manual noted above, I see I have the Smart Radio Five.
  • I'll get pictures up eventually.  Found some more oddities and would like opinions and thoughts.  Not tonight.
  • The tires are Continental www.conti-online.com Made in France
    • Rear:  175/55 R 15 77T Max Load:  412kg/908lbs at 51psi
    • Front:  155/60 R 15 74T Max Load:  375kg/827lbs at 44psi
  • Hatch struts are shot.  I saw a note that someone picked them up from dealer at $63 each (presumably $63 CDN).  Guess I'll keep using the broomstick until I can prove the vehicle is roadworthy.
  • Got in to the Mercedes-Benz dealer, the only way they could look up the part was by VIN.  Wow.  Luckily, I was able to find my update on the VIN database by searching for my town name (Parma) and had the VIN available.  One oil filter ordered; shipping from Germany will take about a week.
    • They also informed me that VIN was insufficient to isolate fuel fitler type so he recommended I take it off and bring it in.
    • I'll take the fuel filter off and investigate, but I'm not sure I'll need to take it in.  [Nigel] says Mann HU68x so I'm betting that will match.  We'll see. 
    • VIN is now in my online document repository.
  • Started clearing stuff out of the back section; Discovered a car cover and a coil spring (??) in the back section.
  • Guess I'll be investigating the suspension.

 

Purchases:

 

  • 27mm socket for the oil filter
  • 1-gallon Rotella T6 Oil
  • 2 x 5-gallon Yellow Diesel Fuel Containers (we'll see if the old stuff fits into one or not)
  • 32-oz Diesel Kleen Plus Cetane Boost
  • 2 x Jackstands

 

Remaining:

 

  • 1/2" drive Torque Wrench (Hard(ish) to find the old needle style, and it's not worth $200 to get a digital one)
  • 1 Pela PL-6000 Suction Pump (wasn't in the store at Wal-Mart so online we go)
  • YesCom 12V 5L Oil Fluid Liquid Diesel Fuel Extractor
  • 2 x Hocky Puck (I was *IN* the Wal-Mart and managed to forget!!!  Ah well, with all the other delays, it seems I have time)
  • Jack (Postponed, since I have Hi-Lift jacks which will do for now)

 

So with parts delays and an upcoming business trip, I don't think I'm going to be ready to move to the next phase for several weeks.  :: pout ::

 

I buttoned her up and rolled her back into her parking space.

 

- Steve M.

 

 

 

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ISteve

The HU68X is an oil filter..  Rock Auto has the fuel filter their number is DF 6305.  They also carry the oil filters..

 

There may be a tire pressure sticker in the passenger door jam.  I believe it says 29 front and rear but  I run a couple more when I remember to check mine.

 

Model 450 front tires were 145/65/15.  There was a conversation about tire sizes here a few days ago.  Here it is http://clubsmartcar.com/index.php?/topic/31599-15560-front-16560-rear-espabs-issues/#comment-355833

 

 

Nigel

Edited by Nigel

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Fram oil filter # CH9024

bought almost everywhere.

Tire pressure 26-30 all around I find good enough, flat even works in the rear if you have to...lol.

Sign in and donate the lowest amount or better at Evilution.uk.co or something like that, it is by far the best technical site i have found so far, not overly chatty by any means, like none, so us chatty types will be very sad there...but full of useful information!

Good luck finding that external extension cord that fits the front stock plug in......IF you do not own one, simply swap it out for household version......plus you won't leave the front of your car in the driveway if you forget to unscrew it during the best time to work on your car...lol.

Good luck finding a winter snow tire that actually has tread on it....lol I'm lifting my winter beater solely for this problem!  Daystar sells a lift kit for a reasonable price to get you enough air to buy real snow tires! It's just a miniscule 2" lift but that's all it takes. 2" in suspension lift and another possible 1 1/2" in tires and bingo, we have a snow machine..lol

I'd strongly suggest doing the rebuilding of the altenater and starter before winter if you haven't started the vehicle for a long time....from the horror stories I see all the time about siezed items and how difficult it is to get them off engine ......especially in a cold environment!   Mine will be done after the lift is in.

I installed a spare fuse panel near the battery and used a switched power to a relay to power it straight from the battery, just so I didn't have to get computer reflashed if i wanted to add electrical items to the car and it didn't like what I have done. Harborfrieght I'm sure you are aware of, it's Princess Auto up here in Canada.

Oh, clean out your EGR valve now before you get into again the cold weather.....it'll be plugged up I bet! Maybe even think of disabling it in one of the two ways we can. I took mine completely off and made an emulator. Really easy and never any EGR issues ever again.

Check intercooler rad for rub through in the front facing side of the tubes. It can be fixed using JBWeld or buy new....I used the weld...lol.   Must be surgical clean to work,.

Use a multi meter to check to see if your glow plugs are good and if not replace but beware they may not want to come out. I got 2 out of 3 of mine out.....luckily one was the bad one...lol.  The last one was dangerously close to snapping so I decided to takle it another day...maybe?

Take out the rear corner windows, they have a little clip in the front lower corner that needs to be uncliped then the inner hold down ring pops out, then the window will pop out...it'll be leaking I bet. Another thing you will want fioxed before the colder weather. I simply got me some clear silicon, it won't leak anymore!  But you can hear it flexing in the summer serious heat days...lol. But it's not leaking! IF it leaks the floor will fill up with water and rot the carpeting and floor boards! Not to mention destroy that little silver box next to your battery. That also is another item to check into.......open it up and check the lower PC board for the white fuzzies....well known issue so I'm told.

Had enough yet?

 

You'll love the little beasty once you get her going well.....for me up here getting raped for diesel by the government at $1.23 per litre I can normally get $20 in the tank to do 400kms.....so god only knows what a tank of fuel will cost you below the border.....and I'm getting close to 80MPGs!  Regularly!

 

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12 hours ago, Willys said:

Fram oil filter # CH9024

bought almost everywhere.

Tire pressure 26-30 all around I find good enough, flat even works in the rear if you have to...lol.

Sign in and donate the lowest amount or better at Evilution.uk.co or something like that, it is by far the best technical site i have found so far, not overly chatty by any means, like none, so us chatty types will be very sad there...but full of useful information!

Good luck finding that external extension cord that fits the front stock plug in......IF you do not own one, simply swap it out for household version......plus you won't leave the front of your car in the driveway if you forget to unscrew it during the best time to work on your car...lol.

Good luck finding a winter snow tire that actually has tread on it....lol I'm lifting my winter beater solely for this problem!  Daystar sells a lift kit for a reasonable price to get you enough air to buy real snow tires! It's just a miniscule 2" lift but that's all it takes. 2" in suspension lift and another possible 1 1/2" in tires and bingo, we have a snow machine..lol

I'd strongly suggest doing the rebuilding of the altenater and starter before winter if you haven't started the vehicle for a long time....from the horror stories I see all the time about siezed items and how difficult it is to get them off engine ......especially in a cold environment!   Mine will be done after the lift is in.

I installed a spare fuse panel near the battery and used a switched power to a relay to power it straight from the battery, just so I didn't have to get computer reflashed if i wanted to add electrical items to the car and it didn't like what I have done. Harborfrieght I'm sure you are aware of, it's Princess Auto up here in Canada.

Oh, clean out your EGR valve now before you get into again the cold weather.....it'll be plugged up I bet! Maybe even think of disabling it in one of the two ways we can. I took mine completely off and made an emulator. Really easy and never any EGR issues ever again.

Check intercooler rad for rub through in the front facing side of the tubes. It can be fixed using JBWeld or buy new....I used the weld...lol.   Must be surgical clean to work,.

Use a multi meter to check to see if your glow plugs are good and if not replace but beware they may not want to come out. I got 2 out of 3 of mine out.....luckily one was the bad one...lol.  The last one was dangerously close to snapping so I decided to takle it another day...maybe?

Take out the rear corner windows, they have a little clip in the front lower corner that needs to be uncliped then the inner hold down ring pops out, then the window will pop out...it'll be leaking I bet. Another thing you will want fioxed before the colder weather. I simply got me some clear silicon, it won't leak anymore!  But you can hear it flexing in the summer serious heat days...lol. But it's not leaking! IF it leaks the floor will fill up with water and rot the carpeting and floor boards! Not to mention destroy that little silver box next to your battery. That also is another item to check into.......open it up and check the lower PC board for the white fuzzies....well known issue so I'm told.

Had enough yet?

 

You'll love the little beasty once you get her going well.....for me up here getting raped for diesel by the government at $1.23 per litre I can normally get $20 in the tank to do 400kms.....so god only knows what a tank of fuel will cost you below the border.....and I'm getting close to 80MPGs!  Regularly!

 

 

Have I had enough?  LOL.  What is this "enough" of which you speak?

 

I was hoping to not have to dig too deeply into it, and that the only real problem was with the transmission, as described by the previous owner.

 

The owner(s) before him put a lot of miles on this thing, and seem to have taken the time to do some work on it (custom A/C addition, for example).  So I'm hopeful that the only real issues I have are that it sat a long time and the previous owner never found the time to fix the transmission issue (he wanted to order a new one from Germany and pay to have it shipped over.  I chatted with a gent who had an ad out someplace looking to buy old Smarts and he highlighted the cable split fork issue.

 

But we'll see.  I'll invest in getting her running until she's running or I surrender.

 

My wife is already fawning over how cute they are; I can see us winding up with two of these.

The good news is it looks like two of them will fit front to back in one of the car slots of our garage.

 

Lifting a Smart -- cool idea.   But lifting, like with Jeeps, has a price on stress angles and such.  Does the Smart natively come with U-Joints or CV Joints?

 

I guess I have more reading to do.  LOL

 

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CV joints...lol. But, it's not like we are going into orbit like we thought when dealing with jeeps...lol.  All I'm after is a decent set of aggressive snow tires just to see if it's snow capable. I live next to the biggest lake in Ontario, lake Simcoe.....which people drive all over ice fishing ....one guy actually installed a track system in the rear to get further ...lol.  I'll just conquor the streets.....I just want snow tires not wet weather tires they try and sell as snows...lol.
They actually make a 2" lift kit but by the time it gets to my door it's far too expensive for what it is. Besides I can make most things myself with some inspirational ideas...lol.  Far easier than taking the engine out i think...maybe?   Plus it's forcing me to actually check the rest of the car.....which i had no intention of doing seeing as i bought it for parts!  But it drives perfectly!

So now i need a third car for actual parts...lol.   they're breeding!

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Well, delayed.  A business trip, unexpected repairs to another vehicle, and during my week of vacation I would up spending most of my time doing work from home because we got nailed by a huge RansomeWare attack.

 

Winter is coming.  LOL.  I need to get to the point where I know if this wee beastie is going to run for the winter or not, and if it is, I need to get more deeply educated on, inspect for the presence of, and prepare to construct and install if necessary, the Tolsen Constrictor.  

 

I know delays are inevitable for any hobby.  But this is also, hopefully, going to be my get-around car for the winter.  It's a 45-55 minute drive; it would be nice to be comfortable.

 

I'll likely eventually want to investigate the 2" lift if you have success with it, [Willys].  I'd like to know how it handles and if it modifies your consumption rate any.

 

 

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i dont think you need to worry much about winter in Ohio

 

 

those tire pressures mentioned above are maximums...just like max load....i wouldnt fill either to max...

Edited by LooseLugNuts

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Well, my winter beater is basically ready for a run down the road now. Everything has been done that can be done to it to prepare it for the winter cold, snow and heat issues. Daystar I think is the maker of said lift kit but with exchange rates to Canada and duty I expect I chose to make the same kit. It wasn't a fast issue to do, but done for peanuts compared to cost of actual kit. All I'm missing are the larger tires and they will be bought after I get a weeks worth of driving on ket to see how it handles everything. I have read issues with bump steer etc but if you intend to drive it sensibly I see no problems seeing how it's designed, besides, they wouldn't be able to sell it if it created huge problems. I should have taken her out today, but did too much yesterday, which caused today a day in bed day....frig'in neck! The only difference is the belly pans at the front as they forced over the lowered front subframe.....I simply attached the rear and middle the same way as stock and then zip tied the front to the bottom of the front  bumper about 8 times. Simple array of holes and stitched it together. Didn't need to ruin the belly pan at all in chase it needs to be put back to stock at a later date. The biggest issue was replacing all belly pan boltsand sch with nutserts and 1/4-20 bolts seeing as 75% of my orginals snapped from rust! I'll get back on the saddle tomorrow and take her out. and give a report on handling.

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Well, I wound up having all kinds of Life show up this past year, it's been almost exactly a year to the day since I was "just a few weeks" from trying to get this wee beastie up and running again.

 

Curious to hear how your lift kit (and probably by now snow tires) testing went.

 

As for me, the shopping list remains the same.  Picked up a 2 ton floor jack (I figure if two Smarts crash into each other I can lift them both) so I won't have to play with the Hi-Lifts.  And I have my hockey pucks, one for each side.  LOL.

 

I've been having a devil of a time trying to find what size wrench/socket to get to do the initial Alternator Unstick action; but I guess now I'll just go take the thing off and measure it.  Right Rear Tire story #1 awaits...

 

Putting in the order for online things tonight; might be able to start work this weekend?  Time alone shall tell this tale.

 

Edited by marinersk

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9 hours ago, marinersk said:

Well, I wound up having all kinds of Life show up this past year, it's been almost exactly a year to the day since I was "just a few weeks" from trying to get this wee beastie up and running again.

 

Curious to hear how your lift kit (and probably by now snow tires) testing went.

 

As for me, the shopping list remains the same.  Picked up a 2 ton floor jack (I figure if two Smarts crash into each other I can lift them both) so I won't have to play with the Hi-Lifts.  And I have my hockey pucks, one for each side.  LOL.

 

I've been having a devil of a time trying to find what size wrench/socket to get to do the initial Alternator Unstick action; but I guess now I'll just go take the thing off and measure it.  Right Rear Tire story #1 awaits...

 

Putting in the order for online things tonight; might be able to start work this weekend?  Time alone shall tell this tale.

 

I installed my lift ran it for a few months maybe and then removed it, simply due to not making it from some sort of material that doesn't vibrate  against the metal of the body of the car suspension wise.  Yes I should have made rubber washers or spaces between lift  pieces but didn't, maybe next time.  I liked the lift and it didn't effect the car in any negative way imho. It even still gave me the same MPGs  which blew me away!  I didn't get to buy larger tires either as the banging or vibrations made me start thinking of removing it early on. I still think it's a good idea, just have to find the correct materials to make another kit from. I thought simple rubber washers would simply squirt out so didn't simply add those....maybe that was all it needed?  I'll never know.  The next lift will incorporate dropping the engine subframe also to keep the driveshaft angles closer to stock, which will allow greater hieghts or larger tires.....without destroying CV joints.

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Best and cheapest way to lift and improve ride of a 450 is installing 451 front springs and 452 (Roadster) rear springs.  I have suffered no broken springs after this mod.  Up to then I had replaced at least 13 springs before I lost count.

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28 minutes ago, tolsen said:

Best and cheapest way to lift and improve ride of a 450 is installing 451 front springs and 452 (Roadster) rear springs.  I have suffered no broken springs after this mod.  Up to then I had replaced at least 13 springs before I lost count.

It doesn't lift far enough to install larger , different brand tires with far more aggressive tread patterns though, correct......?   That was my single goal for lifting, to get a far more ballooned type tire to help soak up potholed gravel roads far up north.....similar to the BAHA VW's back in the day.   The Smart suspension design isn't compatible with very bad roads. IMHO.....so you take up half the bump with tire sidewall give.

You sacrifice handling etc etc, but benefit from a softer ride.  I used to ride up the Dempster Highway in the YUKON and wish to do it again but in a Smart car.....Yep I'm getting old...lol.  Too damaged to ride now.

 

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Funny; I had presumed you wanted the snow tires to improve handling in the the snow.

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Silly me.  LOL.  Anyway, your low-cost lift kit v0.10a began a teaching arc, right?  Can't wait to hear about v0.10b.  : -)

 

Got everything ordered last night as planned; the PL-6000 is no longer in stock at Wal-Mart (even for online ordering) so I had to order it elsewhere and have it delivered.  Ergo, not everything will be here this weekend; my options will be limited.

 

I suppose I can fill in the time downloading manuals from Evilution and getting familiar with the procedures necessary to remove and realize the clutch actuator adjustment I strongly suspect will be needed.

 

New problems have developed.  In addition to the passenger window leaking, now the driver latch won't shut.  I've never repaired one before; always bought a replacement.  I can go scrounging for Smart parts (I suppose I will need to get used to that), but it would be cool if I could figure out how to simply repair the latch mechanism.  For the time being, the driver door is being held mostly shut by rope tied to its interior handle and "secured" by clamping it in the passenger door.

 

I hope not all my repairs wind up demonstrating this level of craftsmanship LOL.

 

Oi.  I want this car running so badly I can taste it -- and with winter coming, I do not know if it will heat sufficiently.  I'll need to revisit the Tolsen Constrictor design notes; and installing one in the winter will surely be "fun".

 

Edited by marinersk
Tolsen Constrictor; not Tolsen Restrictor

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Drivers latch is liable to be a frayed cable on the internal door release.  It's very common, they fray and eventually lock themselves in position.  Mine felt mushy for a week or two before it became unusable.

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Funny; I had presumed you wanted the snow tires to improve handling in the the snow.

lol

I am slightly strange when it comes to my toys, vehicles   many notice....lol.    I have a sickness I love to modify things past the normal.....of everyone else's idea of good ....lol.   BUT, I also have reasons why......yes the handling in the snow is a key issue but my main goal was to be able to get my new toy to the same places as my dual sport adventure bike could take me to. Simply because after my rear-end accident way back my right arm gets put to sleep while riding a bike now, so i have hung up my helmet. BUT, I still have this itch that wants me to go to these far off places.  I like to use out of the norm vehicles.  I like different. It's easy to simply open your wallet and buy a purpose built machine and use it for whatever you wish to do .  It's far more entertaining and satisfying IMHO, to try and make something work that wasn't designed to do such a thing.  That is why I think about doing stupid stuff to my toys.  Driving in the snow is just a pleasant side advantage from doing the lift etc.  But until I finish restoring my summer car, I can't get back to my beater project.  Hope this makes sense...lol.
I also like the idea of being able to easily remove the doors etc similar to a Jeep for summer use.......the car leaks like a siv any way so soft doors wouldn't be that much different any way.  Just another thought...lol

 

 

 

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Thanks again to all for the tips and info.

 

Um.  I'm sensing a pattern here.  Is leaky doors and windows a thing with Smarts?  Or at least the old 450cdi types?

 

Everything has arrived except for the PL-6000 oil suction pump.  Not that it matters.  Round I is to just get the thing started.  I can't drive it until I fix the transmission problem, which I seriously doubt has self-repaired whilst sitting in a nearly-abandoned state for 5 years.

 

Back to thinking about license plates for the thing.  I like Y PANTS for the double-entendre, but I suspect too many folks will get the decoy joke and not the real one.  PUTT X2 is a contender.

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I like 80MPGs   if it's a dirty diesel.....but up here at $200 plus for a set I have out grown fancy plates...lol.

 

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