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Sydney

I think my smart is beyond repair

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So I got the engine lowered. Here is what I found so far.

Starter is shot

Alternator siezed

Intercooler full of oil, so I guess the turbo is shot

Exhaust manifold thin and cracked

Intercooler also damaged from plastic shroud

 

I feel like just tearing out the turbo, egr and Intercooler and seeing if I can just drive around town with just the plain diesel engine... at least then I would just have to invest in a starter and alternator.  

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Your alternator can likely be easily fixed by using a penetrating fluid and turning the alternator shaft with an extended 22mm socket wrench.

 

The intercooler being full of oil is likely from overfilling and crankcase fumes collecting in it.

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You've come this far, see if you can remove the alternator and starter. Both can be rebuilt.

Intercoolers can also be repaired if done correctly.

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i'm going to keep going on it.   my first plan is to get the starter fixed then see if she will start.

do you thing it would be ok to run it for a bit without the intercooler and turbo pipes hooked up?   

i want to see if it will start and run, before i go any further.

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I've never tried that, but it should work. Good luck.

You will learn new swear words when removing the starter.

I don't remove the I/c and holder when changing the starter.

2 long bolts hold the starter to the block - 1 is visible - the other under the I/c shroud.

With long nose pliers I break off pieces of the shroud to access the bolt

     

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IMHO....and yep, that is all it is.....Everything can be either fixed or massaged well enough for it to run well enough for you to use it within reason.  I agree with our local GURU Glenn.  You have got the engine so you can far easily work on her without writing a new swear dictionary I'm sure!
I'd remove both altenator and starter and carefully tackle each as in see what is wrong with them before spending large on replacing them at this point. As they have said and I'm yet to have the fun of experiencing this yet, but it's coming...lol. See if you can break loose the altenator using that 22mm wrench if that's the correct size, sorry just going by memmory....IF it will then turn, simply get it off engine and freshen it up on the bench by rebuyilding it yourself. That costs you zero $$, same goes for starter....but I expect that will cost you $$ to get it profesionally rebuilt after finding out that maybe the brushes or something internally is worn past due date. But i wouldn't simply take them off and hand them to someone and say fix it before having a go because it might just be a case of a simple freeing up then cleaning the daylights out of them...you never know? The intercooler is repairable as I have done two already. People here do not like JBWeld but I do and it does work! It requires a very clean surface to bond to with the surface being roughed up to give the JB something to grab onto to get the best repair. I simply washed the cooler out with chemicals then very carefully sanded everything I expected or wanted the JB to cling to  right down to new matrials. I had one that had the tubes completely worn through. The tubes aren't like rad tubes as they are very deep so they won't get blocked off by allowing some of the JB into them as you try to repair them. But you also don't want to fill them up either. So you work slowly and deliberately trying to keep them open by simply tilting the cooler and I even kept rotating it until the JB gat hard enough to stop flowing away from where I needed it to stay. Then did many many coats to build up the strength of it. I cut the fine heat fins away from the repair areas also, and used stainless small wire brush from Princess Auto to get the majority of the crud away before using a small flat screw driver with sand paper wrapped around it to get between the tubes to get down to fresh materials. It took hours, but it was free! And it worked!  Again some here disagree with the JBWeld apporach but it worked and has worked well for me in the past on other bush fixes while riding in far away locations on a bike and the rad gets a hole punched through it by a branch or something while off roading etc etc. And those fixes were not good clean fixes compared to what you can do on a bench at home.
There is two types of JBWeld, fast acting non flowing putty or slow acting more liquid type .....it's the slow flowing type you want as it will get to areas where you can't be 100% sure it has adhered to if you use the harder paste or putty. It just takes many many thin copats to get the same job done. Then after it's finished simply trin the scoop so the repaired area fits without it ever rubbing again!  
As for the EGR, I have removed the beater's EGR system and will see how well it works but will keep the good cars EGR and clean it well to see which works the best code wise.IF either keeps fliping coades then it'll get switched to the way that doesn't flip any codes. So far I do not get codes on the good car, so it'll stay the way it is complete.

Sorry for long letter, but these things can be fixed massaged or replaced so do not wreck a workable car just because it's upsetting you and also out of frustration. 

Good luck.

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thanks for the advice.  i am new to owning a smart.  (she was not running when i got her, but the PO said it was only a fuel issue)  lol.  

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Without a turbo, the car likely has 15 HP, so it'd be faster to walk.

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Posted (edited) · Report post

Alternator - can likely be unseized.

 

Oily bits - clean it up, fit a catch tank to prevent recurrence.

 

Intercooler - may be repairable with silver solder or even epoxy if not too bad.  Failing that, eBay is your friend.

 

Starter - nearest major town will have someone who rebuilds them.

 

Manifold - probably no way around that but another.

 

This doesn't look remotely insurmountable to me.

Edited by Chopper
Dreadful typoingh
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I just welded a manifold a few days ago, do it right and even that's possible, not perfect but possible!

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